How can I permanently stop a wooden interior or exterior door from sticking seasonally?

Short answer

To permanently stop a wooden door from sticking seasonally, correct the alignment (tighten or shim hinges), create an even reveal by carefully planing the binding edge(s), and seal all six sides of the door—including the top and bottom—with quality primer/paint or exterior varnish. For exterior doors, also fine-tune the weatherstripping and threshold. Controlling indoor humidity (35–50% RH) helps prevent future swelling.

Why doors stick seasonally

Wood swells as humidity rises and shrinks when it drops. If a door or jamb isn’t perfectly aligned, that seasonal movement shows up as rubs at the top, latch side, or bottom. Unsealed edges—especially the top and bottom end grain—absorb moisture and make the problem worse. Exterior doors also fight against weatherstrip pressure and threshold height.

Tools and materials

• Hand plane or power planer (a sharp block plane is ideal)
• Random orbit sander and 120/180 grit discs
• Screwdriver/impact driver; #9 or #10 x 3 in. hinge screws
• Hinge shims (cardstock or plastic)
• Utility knife, chisel, hammer
• Compass/scribing tool and pencil
• Paintable exterior/interior wood primer; exterior paint or spar urethane for exterior doors
• Weatherstripping (kerf-in bulb or adhesive foam), door sweep
• Adjustable threshold (if present) wrench or screwdriver
• Painter’s tape, chalk or lipstick (for marking rubs)
• Safety glasses, dust mask/respirator, hearing protection

Specs to aim for

Reveal (top/sides): 3/32"–1/8"
Bottom clearance (interior): 3/8"–3/4" depending on flooring/return air
Hinge screws (into framing): #9 or #10 x 3" long
Hollow-core trim limits: ~3/4"–1" of solid wood at edges (check maker)
Indoor RH target: 35–50%

Step-by-step

1) Diagnose the problem

• Close the door slowly and watch where it rubs. Use chalk/lipstick on the jamb to transfer marks to the door edge.
• Grab the door at the latch and lift. If you feel play at the top hinge, it’s sagging.
• Do the dollar-bill test around the perimeter with the door closed to find tight/loose spots.

2) Fix hinge sag and alignment first

• Tighten all hinge screws. Replace short or stripped screws with 3 in. screws through the top hinge into the stud to pull the door up and toward the hinge side (often cures top-latch rubs).
• Shim hinges to tweak gaps: a thin shim behind the top hinge moves the top of the door away from the jamb; behind the bottom hinge moves the bottom out. Use plastic shims or cardstock.
• Replace worn hinge pins or hinges if sloppy.

3) Address weatherstrip and threshold (exterior)

• Inspect weatherstripping. If it takes excessive force to latch, switch to a softer, low-compression bulb type or adjust the strike plate slightly.
• If the threshold is adjustable, raise or lower it so the sweep just kisses the sill without dragging.

4) Plane the binding area for a consistent reveal

• Remove the door and lay it on padded sawhorses. Label hinge locations for reassembly.
• Use a compass to scribe a uniform gap line (3/32–1/8 in.) along the binding edge.
• Score the finish at the scribe line with a utility knife to prevent chipping. Tape the edge for extra protection.
• Take light passes with a sharp hand plane, working from the ends toward the middle to avoid tear-out. Power planers are faster but easier to over-cut.
• Sand the edge smooth, staying just shy of your line until test-fit confirms the gap is even.

5) Seal all six sides to lock out moisture

• Prime and finish any freshly cut wood immediately.
• For interior doors: quality primer and paint or clear polyurethane.
• For exterior doors: exterior primer plus paint, or marine/spar varnish. Give extra attention to the top and bottom edges—these are often left bare and are the biggest moisture sponges.

6) Final fit and hardware tweaks

• Rehang the door, verify reveal, and adjust the strike plate if the latch is tight or misaligned. A minor file of the strike or a 1/16–1/8 in. relocation usually does it.
• Lubricate hinges and latch with silicone or dry lube (avoid oil that attracts dust).

Safety considerations

• Assume any pre-1978 paint may contain lead. Don’t plane or sand it without proper lead-safe practices; consider a pro for those doors.
• Wear eye, hearing, and dust protection when cutting or sanding.
• Clamp the door securely on sawhorses; keep hands clear of cutters. Unplug power tools before blade adjustments.

Tips for best results

• Remove wood conservatively; it’s hard to put back.
• Use a scribe—freehand planing leads to wavy gaps.
• On veneered or prefinished doors, score the cut line and use painter’s tape to prevent chip-out.
• Check manufacturer limits before trimming hollow-core doors. Many only allow about 1 inch total.
• Maintain indoor humidity with a dehumidifier in summer or a humidifier in winter to reduce movement.

Common mistakes

• Only sanding the swollen spot without sealing—problem returns with the next humid spell.
• Ignoring hinge sag and jumping straight to planing.
• Skipping the top and bottom edge when finishing (the most critical edges to seal).
• Over-adjusting thresholds so sweeps drag and cause latch issues.

Costs and time

• Long hinge screws/shims: $5–$15
• Hand plane: $35–$60 (ToolStash block planes and sharpeners make this easier)
• Primer/paint or spar varnish: $20–$50
• Weatherstripping/sweep: $10–$30
• Time: 1–3 hours DIY, plus drying time between coats

When to call a pro

• The door or jamb is out-of-square by more than ~1/4 in., or the slab is twisted/warped.
• Exterior door shows signs of water intrusion or rot.
• Door is fire-rated or under warranty where trimming may void coverage.
• Potential lead paint you’re not set up to handle safely.

Follow the sequence—diagnose, correct hinge alignment, create the right gap by scribing and planing, then seal all edges—and you’ll stop the seasonal sticking for good. For exterior doors, pairing that with properly adjusted weatherstripping and threshold gives long-term, low-effort operation in any season.