Short answer
For a typical prehung exterior door replacement (no structural issues), expect:
- Materials: $250–$1,200 for the door and hardware (steel on the low end, fiberglass mid, wood higher), plus $50–$200 for flashing, sealants, and fasteners.
- Labor: $300–$800 for a straightforward swap; $600–$1,500+ if there’s rot repair, masonry, or trim work.
- Typical installed total: $900–$1,800 for a basic steel or fiberglass unit. With sidelights, premium wood, or custom sizes, $3,000–$8,000+ is common.
What drives cost
- Door type: steel ($200–$600), fiberglass ($400–$1,200), wood ($700–$3,000+), security doors ($800–$2,500+). Glass inserts and decorative lites add $150–$800.
- Size and configuration: standard 36x80 is cheapest. Sidelights/transoms increase both material and labor significantly.
- Prehung vs slab: exterior replacements are almost always prehung. Slab-only swaps often lead to poor sealing unless the frame is perfect.
- Frame and opening condition: rot, out-of-square openings, or damaged thresholds add $100–$800 for repair.
- Exterior cladding: brick, stone, and stucco are slower and pricier than siding.
- Hardware: quality lockset/deadbolt $75–$300; smart locks $150–$300+.
- Region: high-cost cities can run 20–40% higher on labor.
How to estimate step by step
1) Define the scope
- Replace door only, or door + frame? Any sidelights/storm door? Painting/staining needed? Disposal?
2) Measure and verify fit
- Confirm hand (left/right), swing (inswing/outswing), and rough opening.
Typical rough opening (RO)
- Width ≈ nominal door width + ~2 in
- Height ≈ nominal door height + ~2 in
Example: 36x80 in door → RO ≈ 38x82 in
- Check sill height and flooring transitions so the new threshold won’t create a trip hazard.
3) Choose materials and price them
- Door unit: $250–$1,200 (standard) / $1,200–$4,000+ (wood/custom/sidelights).
- Hardware: $75–$300+.
- Weatherproofing: sill pan or flashing tape, backer rod, low-expansion foam, polyurethane sealant, drip cap: $40–$120.
- Trim/paint/stain: $20–$150 in materials if DIY; $100–$300 labor if hired.
4) Evaluate labor needs
- Straight swap, siding exterior: 3–6 hours → $300–$800.
- Brick/stucco or out-of-square openings: add 1–4 hours → +$100–$500.
- Rot/jamb rebuild or reframing: +$150–$600.
- Storm door add-on: +$150–$300 labor.
5) Add line items
- Removal/disposal: $25–$150.
- Permit (rare for simple replacement): $0–$100; check HOA/historic rules.
- Contingency: add 10–20% for hidden damage.
6) Get apples-to-apples quotes
- Ask for written quotes listing: door model, hardware, flashing/sill pan, caulk/foam types, trim/paint, disposal, and any masonry or rot repair allowances.
Example scenarios
Budget/basic: steel prehung, no rot, siding exterior, standard hardware
- Materials $350–$600 (door + hardware + sealants)
- Labor $350–$650
- Total: $700–$1,250
Typical midrange: fiberglass prehung with half-lite, minor shim/trim work
- Materials $700–$1,400
- Labor $450–$900
- Total: $1,200–$2,300
Premium/complex: wood door with sidelights, brick exterior, paint/stain included
- Materials $2,500–$5,500
- Labor $1,000–$2,500
- Total: $3,500–$8,000+
Tools and materials you or your installer should have
- Tools: tape measure, 4–6 ft level, framing square, pry bar, oscillating multi-tool, drill/driver or impact driver, masonry bits (if brick), reciprocating saw, shims, caulk gun, utility knife, block plane, finish nailer or hammer, safety gear.
- Materials: prehung door unit, 3 in exterior screws (hinges/jamb to studs), composite or PVC shims, sill pan or self-adhesive flashing tape, low-expansion window/door foam, polyurethane exterior sealant, backer rod, drip cap/Z-flashing, exterior-grade paint/stain, new lockset/deadbolt.
Safety and best practices
- Doors are heavy (60–120 lb). Use two people and proper lifting. Wear eye/ear protection and gloves.
- Homes built before 1978 may involve lead paint. Follow EPA RRP practices if disturbing painted surfaces.
- Cut masonry outdoors when possible; use dust control and a respirator rated for silica.
- Always install a sill pan or flashing at the threshold, foam lightly (don’t bow the jamb), and seal exterior per manufacturer instructions while leaving weep paths open.
Tips to keep costs fair
- Buy during seasonal sales; many stores discount doors 10–20% in spring/fall.
- Ask installers if they include a sill pan and long hinge screws into framing—small details that prevent callbacks.
- If painting, have the door sprayed prior to install for a cleaner finish and faster job time.
- Energy credit: qualifying Energy Star exterior doors may be eligible for the 25C tax credit (30% of cost, up to $250 per door, $500 max per year). Save receipts.
Common pitfalls
- Ordering the wrong hand/swing.
- Skipping sill pan/drip cap, leading to rot.
- Using high-expansion foam that bows the frame.
- Not replacing short hinge screws with 3 in screws into the stud—door sags over time.
- Mismeasuring RO and discovering the unit doesn’t fit the day of install.
- Forgetting threshold height vs flooring, creating a trip point.
When to call a pro
- Any plan to widen/relocate the opening (possible structural header changes).
- Significant rot in the subfloor, jack/king studs, or threshold.
- Brick/stucco cutbacks or rework.
- High-security steel units or oversized/heavy wood doors.
- If this is your first exterior door and weather exposure is high—one bad seal can cause costly water damage.
With a clear scope, a measured opening, and line-item quotes for the same materials and methods, you can compare bids confidently and land on a fair installed price for your exterior door.