What's the easiest way to repair stripped screw holes in door frames?

Short answer

The easiest reliable fix is to pack the stripped hole with wood glue and wooden toothpicks (or matchsticks), let it cure, and re‑drive the screw. For a long‑lasting repair—especially on door hinges and strike plates—drill out the hole and glue in a hardwood dowel, then pre‑drill and use longer screws that bite into the stud.

Why screw holes strip in door frames

Door jambs are typically softwood and only about 3/4 in. thick. Over time, screws loosen from repeated use or if they were too short or overtightened. The fix is to give the screw fresh, dense material to bite into and, where possible, anchor into the framing stud behind the jamb.

Materials and tools

• Wood glue (PVA, e.g., Titebond II/III)
• Wooden toothpicks/matchsticks OR hardwood dowel (1/4 in. or 3/8 in.)
• Replacement screws (preferably 2.5–3 in. #9 or #10 for hinges/strike plates)
• Optional: two‑part wood epoxy (e.g., PC‑Woody), wood filler, finish paint
• Drill/driver and bits (brad‑point bit to match dowel size; pilot bits for screws)
• Flush‑cut saw or sharp chisel; utility knife
• Countersink bit (optional)
• Painter’s tape, rags, and safety glasses

Quick fix: toothpicks + glue (10–20 minutes + drying)

Great for light hardware or non‑security screws.

1. Remove the screw and any loose fibers from the hole.
2. Squeeze wood glue into the hole until it wets the walls.
3. Insert wooden toothpicks/matchsticks coated with glue. Pack tightly until the hole is full. Snap them flush with a utility knife or flush‑cut saw.
4. Wipe away squeeze‑out. Let the glue set at least 30–60 minutes (full strength in 12–24 hours).
5. Pre‑drill a pilot hole, then drive the screw snug—not overly tight.

• Cost: $0–$5 if you have glue and toothpicks.
• Best for: strike plate screws, latch plate screws, light hinge screws.
• Not ideal for: heavily used hinges on heavy doors or security hardware unless you also use longer screws.

Best long‑term fix: dowel plug + longer screws (45–90 minutes)

This is a robust repair for hinges and strike plates.

1. Remove the hinge leaf or plate. Mark the stripped hole.
2. Drill out the hole to a clean, round size to match a hardwood dowel (typically 1/4 in. or 3/8 in.). Use a brad‑point bit to stay centered and avoid wandering.
3. Coat the inside of the hole and the dowel with wood glue. Insert the dowel so the grain runs parallel to the jamb’s grain. Tap snugly home; avoid splitting.
4. Let cure: clamp lightly if needed; 30–60 minutes set, 12–24 hours for full strength.
5. Trim the dowel flush with a flush‑cut saw or chisel. Sand if needed.
6. Reposition the hardware. Mark and pre‑drill a proper pilot hole.
7. Install longer screws (2.5–3 in.) that reach into the wall stud, especially for the top hinge and strike plate for extra holding power.

• Cost: $5–$15 for dowel, glue, bits; screws $4–$8.
• Result: As strong or stronger than original, and more resistant to repeat stripping.

Epoxy repair option (30 minutes + cure)

Two‑part wood epoxy can work where drilling is awkward.

1. Clean the hole. Mix epoxy per instructions.
2. Pack the hole slightly proud. Let it partially cure until firm but drillable.
3. Pre‑drill and reinstall the screw. Some epoxies allow threading before full cure; others need full cure—follow the product label.

• Use where moisture is an issue or wood is crumbly. Paintable after cure.

Key specs for pilots and screws

Recommended pilot holes (approx.):
- #8 screw: 3/32" (softwood), 7/64" (hardwood)
- #9 screw: 7/64" (softwood), 1/8" (hardwood)
- #10 screw: 1/8" (softwood), 9/64" (hardwood)

For hinges/strike plates:
- Length: 2.5–3 in. screws (into stud)
- Gauge: #9 or #10

Safety and best practices

• Wear eye protection when drilling and cutting; wood splinters are common around jambs.
• Don’t overtighten: snug plus a quarter‑turn is plenty. Overtightening re‑strips fresh repairs.
• Pre‑drill every time, especially into hardwood dowels.
• Lubricate screws with a dab of paste wax or bar soap to reduce torque and splitting.
• Protect finishes with painter’s tape and wipe glue squeeze‑out immediately with a damp rag.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Using drywall anchors in wood jambs—they don’t hold well and can weaken the jamb.
• Reusing too‑short screws. If the screw doesn’t reach the stud, it will loosen again.
• Skipping cure times. Let glue or epoxy set before loading the joint.
• Misalignment. If the door is rubbing or sagging, fix alignment (shim hinges, adjust strike) before tightening.

Tips for best results

• Prioritize the top hinge: it carries most of the door’s weight. Use the dowel method here and 3 in. screws into the stud.
• Consider structural screws (e.g., multi‑material or construction screws) with smaller heads that fit hinge countersinks.
• For cosmetic holes or exposed filler, finish with paint or a color‑matched wood filler after the repair.

When to call a pro

• The jamb is cracked or split around the hinge area.
• The door is significantly out of alignment, rubbing, or won’t latch even after tightening.
• It’s a metal or fire‑rated frame where different fasteners/techniques are required.
• Security concerns (exterior door with prior forced entry) warrant strike plate reinforcement kits and longer screws into framing; a pro can ensure proper anchoring.

With a bottle of wood glue, a handful of toothpicks, or a hardwood dowel and a drill, you can restore stripped door frame holes quickly. For high‑stress spots, pairing a dowel repair with longer screws into the stud is a small upgrade that pays off in lasting strength and smoother door operation.