How do I decide whether to repair or replace gutters after storm or hail damage?

Short answer

Repair gutters if the damage is minor and localized (a few dents, a leaky seam, loose hangers, a crushed elbow). Replace them if damage is widespread, the pitch is off, multiple seams leak, the gutters are old or corroded, or storm/hail creasing has compromised long sections. If more than about 25–30% of the system is affected—or the fascia is rotted—replacement is usually the better long-term fix.

How to decide: key factors

• Extent of damage: A couple of leaks or a bent downspout is repair territory. Multiple crushed sections, widespread hail creases, or sagging runs point to replacement.
• Age and material: Aluminum over 15–20 years, thin-gauge (0.027") aluminum, rusting galvanized steel, or brittle vinyl often isn’t worth patching. Copper and heavier 0.032" aluminum tolerate repair better.
• Function: If water overflows, pools in the trough, or leaks at multiple joints even after touch-ups, the system isn’t functioning—replacement or reconfiguration is smart.
• Underlying wood: Soft/rotted fascia or loosened ledger boards usually requires carpentry plus rehanging or replacing gutters.
• Insurance and cost: Storm/hail damage may be covered. If replacement is partially covered, it can be cheaper than a string of repairs.

What storm or hail damage looks like

• Hail dents/creases: Smooth dents are mostly cosmetic; sharp creases (often near hangers) weaken the gutter and can trap water and debris.
• Pulled fasteners: Spikes or hangers backed out, sections sagging or separated at corners.
• Leaky seams/miters: Drips at end caps, inside/outside corners, or along old seams.
• Crushed downspouts/elbows: Restricts flow and causes overflow at the nearest outlet.
• Paint loss/corrosion: Chips exposing bare metal; rust indicates nearing end of life (for steel).

DIY inspection steps

1. Safety first
   • Use a sturdy extension ladder with a stabilizer. Wear gloves and eye protection. Avoid working near overhead lines or on wet/icy surfaces.
2. Ground scan
   • Look for sagging runs, separated corners, missing downspouts, and washout near foundations.
3. Close-up check
   • Verify slope, look for creases, check every hanger and seam, and probe fascia for softness.
4. Hose test
   • Run water at the high end. Watch for pooling, drips at seams, and flow at outlets.

Specs to check:
- Slope: 1/16–1/8 inch per foot toward the downspout
- Hanger spacing: 24" typical (16" in snow/ice regions)
- Aluminum thickness: 0.032" resists hail better than 0.027"
- Downspouts: 3x4" handles more flow than 2x3"; use more outlets for long runs

Repair vs. replace: practical thresholds

• Repair makes sense if:
  • Less than ~20% of linear footage is damaged.
  • Only a few seams leak; sections still pitch correctly.
  • Downspouts or elbows are crushed but easy to swap.
  • Gutters are relatively new and structurally sound.
• Replace if:
  • Multiple runs are creased/sagging or over 25–30% damaged.
  • Repeated seam leaks or undersized/incorrectly pitched gutters.
  • Significant rust, peeling coating, or brittle vinyl.
  • Fascia/soffit rot or the system uses old spike-and-ferrule and keeps loosening.

Common repair tasks (and how-to)

• Seal a leaky seam/end cap (1–2 hours)
  • Tools: caulk gun, butyl gutter sealant, rags, scraper, alcohol, rivet gun (optional), 1/8" aluminum rivets.
  • Steps:
  • Clean and dry joint; remove old sealant.
  • Apply a continuous bead of butyl sealant inside the joint.
  • For gaps/holes, back it with a small aluminum patch and rivet, then seal edges.
• Rehang a sagging section (1–3 hours)
  • Tools: cordless drill/driver, hidden hangers with screws, 2–4 ft level or string line.
  • Steps:
  • Snap a reference line for proper slope.
  • Add or replace hidden hangers at proper spacing, anchoring into rafter tails or solid fascia.
• Replace a crushed downspout elbow (30–60 minutes)
  • Tools: nut driver, tin snips, downspout crimper.
  • Steps:
  • Unscrew damaged elbow, cut out if needed.
  • Crimp the male end of the new elbow, slide into place, and fasten with two screws per joint.

Tools and materials checklist

• Ladders: extension ladder with stabilizer/stand-off.
• Measuring and layout: torpedo or 2–4 ft level, chalk line, tape.
• Cutting/fastening: aviation snips, rivet gun, cordless drill, hex-head gutter screws (#10 x 1.5" stainless/exterior-coated).
• Hardware: hidden hangers, end caps, inside/outside miters, outlets, elbows, slip couplers.
• Sealants: butyl rubber gutter sealant; aluminum repair tape for temporary patches.
• Optional: downspout crimper, gutter scoop, hose nozzle, leaf guards.

Safety tips

• Maintain a 4:1 ladder angle and use a stabilizer to protect gutters and increase contact area.
• Wear cut-resistant gloves—edges are sharp.
• Keep clear of service drops and lines; call a pro if clearance is tight.

Costs and timing

• Minor repair (seal a seam, replace an elbow): $20–$100 in materials; 1–2 hours DIY.
• Rehanging with new hidden hangers: $2–$5 per hanger; a typical side of a house may take 2–4 hours.
• Replace a run DIY with sectional aluminum: $3–$6/linear ft materials.
• Pro-installed seamless aluminum: roughly $10–$20/linear ft; whole-house (150–200 ft) $1,500–$4,000. Copper is much higher.

Tips for best results

• Upgrade to 0.032" seamless aluminum and 3x4" downspouts in hail- or heavy-rain regions.
• Align gutter size with roof area; long runs benefit from an extra downspout or a center outlet.
• Prep before sealing—clean and dry—so repairs last.
• Avoid mixing metals: keep copper away from aluminum/steel or isolate with compatible fasteners and sealants.
• If replacing the roof soon, schedule gutters after roofing to avoid damage and ensure correct drip-edge integration.

Common pitfalls

• Over-sealing dirty joints; it will fail quickly.
• Setting gutters dead-level or uphill; water will sit and overflow.
• Reusing loose spikes instead of installing hidden hangers with screws.
• Ignoring soft fascia—fasteners won’t hold.

When to call a professional

• Two-story or steep sites, or work near electrical lines.
• Widespread hail creasing, twisted runs, or bad pitch throughout.
• Rot repair, new fascia/soffit, or desire for seamless gutters (requires a jobsite machine).
• Insurance claim support—pros can document damage and provide detailed estimates.

Document damage with photos, make temporary leak controls (butyl tape, splash blocks), and contact your insurer quickly after a storm. A brief inspection using the steps above will tell you whether targeted repairs will restore performance—or whether a full, right-sized replacement will save you time, leaks, and callbacks.