How do I clean and maintain gutters?

Short answer

Clean gutters by safely accessing them with a stable ladder, scooping out leaves and debris, flushing with a garden hose to confirm flow, clearing downspouts, and making basic repairs like resealing seams or adding hangers. Do this at least twice a year (spring and late fall), more often if you have overhanging trees, and consider gutter guards to reduce future buildup.

Why gutter maintenance matters

Clogged gutters overflow and send water down your siding and into your foundation. That can lead to basement leaks, fascia rot, ice dams, landscape erosion, and even pest issues. Regular cleaning and quick fixes are far cheaper than repairing water damage.

Tools and materials

• Ladder (type I or IAA), with a ladder standoff/stabilizer
• Work gloves and eye protection
• Non-slip footwear
• Gutter scoop or plastic trowel; 5-gallon bucket with S-hook or trash bags
• Garden hose with spray nozzle; optional telescoping gutter-cleaning wand
• Plumber’s snake or leaf blower (with gutter attachment) for downspouts
• Screwdriver or drill/driver; corrosion-resistant gutter screws/hidden hangers
• Gutter sealant (butyl rubber or polyurethane), patch tape for small holes
• Putty knife; rag; isopropyl alcohol for cleaning before sealing
• Tarps for protecting landscaping and for debris collection

Time: 1–3 hours for a typical single-story home. Costs: $0–$60 for basic tools and sealant; $30–$80 for cleaning wands; $1–$5/ft for gutter guards.

Safety first

• Use a stable ladder with a standoff so you’re not leaning on the gutter. Keep 3 points of contact. Have a helper foot the ladder.
• Stay well clear of power lines.
• Don’t work on wet, icy, or windy days; gutters and roofs get slick fast.
• Avoid going on steep roofs. If you must get on a roof, use fall protection.
• Don’t overreach. Climb down and move the ladder frequently.

Step-by-step cleaning

1) Prep

• Lay a tarp below to catch debris and protect plants.
• Hang a bucket from the ladder with an S-hook for easy dumping.
• Start near a downspout so you can check flow early.

2) Remove debris

• Use a gutter scoop or gloved hand to remove leaves, twigs, and granules.
• Place debris into the bucket or toss onto the tarp for easy bagging.
• For packed muck, loosen gently with a plastic scoop to avoid scratching.

3) Flush the gutters

• Use a hose with a nozzle to rinse toward the downspout. Look for standing water, indicating poor slope or clogs.
• Watch for leaks at seams and corners—mark them with painter’s tape to seal later.

4) Clear the downspouts

• Spray water from the top. If it backs up, remove the bottom elbow and clear by hand.
• Use a plumber’s snake or a leaf blower (blowing from bottom up) for stubborn clogs.
• Reassemble elbows and check for secure connections.

5) Fix pitch, fasteners, and leaks

• Replace loose spikes/ferrules with hidden hangers and stainless or coated screws.
• Add hangers about every 24–36 inches or as needed for sagging sections.
• Reseal leaky seams and end caps: clean/dry surfaces, apply gutter sealant inside the joint, and let cure per label.

6) Optional upgrades

• Add splash blocks or 3–6 ft downspout extensions to move water away from the foundation.
• Install gutter guards (screen or micro-mesh are most effective). They reduce, but don’t eliminate, maintenance.

Helpful specs

Gutter slope: ~1/4 inch drop per 10 feet toward each downspout
Downspout sizes: common 2x3 inch or 3x4 inch (3x4 moves more water)
Fasteners: corrosion-resistant screws; hidden hangers every 24–36 inches
Sealant: butyl rubber or polyurethane for aluminum/steel; use compatible sealant for copper

Tips for best results

• Dry debris is easier to scoop; wet debris is easier to flush. Do a quick dry scoop, then a rinse.
• Use a telescoping wand for second-story gutters if you’re not comfortable on a tall ladder.
• Add a drip edge or check that the existing drip edge directs water into the gutter, not behind it.
• For steel gutters showing surface rust, wire-brush, prime with a rust-inhibiting primer, and paint.
• Copper gutters: avoid mixing metals; use compatible fasteners and sealants to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Leaning the ladder directly on the gutter without a standoff—bends the flange and causes leaks.
• Ignoring downspouts. Most overflows are from downspout clogs, not gutter troughs.
• Power-washing with too much pressure, which can force water behind the fascia and damage sealant.
• Over-sealing without cleaning/drying first; sealant won’t adhere to dirty or wet surfaces.
• Leaving standing water. Poor pitch leads to mosquito breeding and premature corrosion.

Maintenance schedule

• Twice a year: late spring and late fall. Quarterly if you have heavy tree cover.
• After major windstorms: quick visual check and downspout test.
• Annual: tighten hangers, check slope, reseal any weeping seams.

When to call a pro

• Multi-story homes or steep/complex rooflines.
• Severely sagging gutters, rotten fascia boards, or extensive seam failure.
• Underground drain tie-ins you can’t access.
• Ice dams or frequent winter overflow—may need roof/insulation/venting assessment.

Rough costs and hiring

• DIY materials for a typical single-story: $30–$150 depending on tools you own.
• Professional cleaning: usually $100–$300 for a single-story, more for larger or two-story homes.
• Gutter replacement (if needed): aluminum K-style often $8–$15/ft installed; guards $1–$5/ft for basic screens, $10–$20/ft for premium micro-mesh.

Keeping gutters clear isn’t complicated, and a few hours twice a year prevents costly water damage. Start with safe access, remove debris methodically, verify flow, make small repairs on the spot, and consider guards or downspout upgrades to reduce future clogs.