What are reliable temporary fixes for small roof leaks until a roofer can repair?

Quick answer

For small roof leaks, the most reliable temporary fixes are:

• Properly installed roof tarp secured with boards and screws
• Roofing cement or polyurethane flashing sealant for small cracks or nail holes
• Peel-and-stick flashing membrane (butyl-backed) over suspect seams or around penetrations
• Reinforced patch on flat roofs with elastomeric/bitumen patch and fabric
• Attic/ceiling containment to control interior damage until weather clears

These are stopgaps—aim to have a roofer verify and repair as soon as weather allows.

Before you go on the roof

• Work only in dry, calm conditions. Wet or windy roofs are hazardous.
• Use a stable extension ladder tied off at the top and footed at the bottom. Wear boots with soft, clean soles.
• Fall protection: On steep slopes (6:12 or greater), use a roof harness and anchor. Never work alone.
• Electric hazards: If water is near electrical fixtures, shut off power to that circuit and call a pro.

Inside, immediately:
- Place a bucket under drips, and use a pin to relieve any ceiling water "bubble" so it drains into the bucket.
- Move belongings, lay plastic sheeting, and run a fan/dehumidifier to limit moisture damage.

Tools and materials you may need

• Ladder, safety gear (harness, roof shoes, gloves, eye protection)
• Utility knife, flat pry bar, hammer
• Cordless drill/driver, exterior screws, roofing nails
• 2x4 or 1x3 furring strips
• Heavy-duty tarp (poly, 8–10 mil) or specialized roof tarp
• Roofing cement (asphaltic) or polyurethane flashing sealant (non-silicone)
• Butyl or bitumen peel-and-stick flashing membrane; butyl tape
• Putty knife/trowel; J-roller for membrane
• Self-tapping roofing screws with neoprene washers (for metal)

Method 1: Tarp a section (good for missing shingles or unknown exact source)

Time: 30–60 minutes. Cost: $30–$120.

• Clear debris so the tarp lays flat. Start at least one course above the suspected leak and extend down past the eave.
• Lay 2x4s under the top edge of the tarp and roll the tarp around them to form a "batten." Screw the batten into framing where possible (ridge or rafter line) to avoid dozens of shingle penetrations. Repeat at sides and bottom.
• Keep fasteners near edges so you don’t pepper the field of the roof with holes that will leak later.
• Overlap ridges so water sheds off the tarp, not under it.

Tarp overlap: 3–4 in beyond ridge/eave
Screw spacing at battens: 8–12 in on center
Tarp orientation: long edge parallel to eave; top edge over ridge if possible

Tip: Avoid stapling through the tarp into shingles. Staples tear and create more leak points.

Method 2: Patch a small shingle leak or nail hole

Time: 15–30 minutes. Cost: $10–$25.

• Identify the source: look for cracked tabs, exposed nail heads, or lifted shingle edges directly uphill of the interior leak path.
• Gently lift the shingle tab with a flat bar. If a nail has backed out, pull it and drive a new roofing nail 1 in upslope.
• Apply a thin bed of roofing cement under the lifted area and over any small puncture; press the tab down and weight it for 10–15 minutes.
• Exposed shiner nails: coat heads with roofing cement.

Best results: Work warm and dry; cold shingles crack. Use asphaltic roofing cement on asphalt shingles; use polyurethane sealant where flexibility and adhesion are needed.

Method 3: Seal leaky flashing or vent boots

Time: 20–40 minutes. Cost: $15–$40.

• For rubber vent boots with small splits, clean and dry, then wrap the collar with butyl flashing tape and top-seal with polyurethane flashing sealant.
• For step flashing or counterflashing gaps, clean, dry, and bridge the seam with peel-and-stick flashing membrane. Tool edges with a putty knife and roll firmly.
• Avoid smearing silicone over dirty metal—it won’t bond well and peels.

Metal roofs (fastener or seam leaks)

Time: 20–60 minutes. Cost: $15–$60.

• Replace loose or backed-out screws with new metal roofing screws that have neoprene washers. Choose the next size up if the hole is wallowed.
• For pinholes or small seam leaks, clean to bare metal, apply butyl tape over the seam, then top with polyurethane roof sealant. Roll it tight.

Flat or low-slope roofs

Time: 30–60 minutes. Cost: $20–$60.

• Clean and dry the area. Apply a compatible patch: acrylic elastomeric patch or bituminous mastic, reinforced with polyester fabric, then a second coat over the fabric feathered out 2–4 in beyond the leak.
• Use products rated for ponding water if the area ponds. A tarp on a flat roof can trap water and worsen leaks—avoid it if you can patch instead.

Tips for best results

• Clean and dry surfaces before sealing. A quick wipe with mineral spirits on metal improves adhesion (observe product safety).
• Press-in membranes with a roller to eliminate bubbles.
• Color-match sealants are secondary; performance and compatibility first (polyurethane or MS polymer sealants adhere better than general-purpose silicone on roofing).
• Mark your temporary fastener locations so the roofer can address them later.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Relying on duct tape or general silicone—poor adhesion outdoors.
• Driving dozens of nails through a tarp into the roof deck.
• Sealing only the visible drip; the leak source is usually upslope.
• Working in the rain or on frosty shingles.
• Walking brittle shingles on very cold days or soft asphalt in extreme heat.

When to call a professional quickly

• Water near electrical panels/fixtures or evidence of ceiling collapse.
• Sagging roof deck, widespread shingle loss, or rot.
• Chimney/valley leaks or anywhere the exact source isn’t obvious.
• Recurrent leaks on a roof older than about 20 years.

A skilled roofer can often perform a durable interim repair (proper shingle replacement, flashing reset, or compatible roof patch) during the first visit. Your temporary measures are there to buy time and prevent interior damage—keep receipts and photos for insurance.