Short answer
Check your city or county building department’s website and call their permit desk. As a rule, any work that alters structure, adds or relocates plumbing, gas, HVAC, or electrical, changes exterior openings or roof, or converts space (garage, basement, attic) requires a permit. Cosmetic updates like paint, flooring, and same-location fixture swaps usually don’t—but the final word comes from your local authority.
What typically needs a permit
These are common projects that often trigger permits (and inspections):
- Structural work: moving or removing walls, new beams/headers, changing roof framing, new decks or porches
- Electrical: new circuits, panel upgrades, adding subpanels, rewiring, adding outlets in kitchens/baths/garages, EV chargers
- Plumbing: adding or relocating drains/vents/supply, water heater replacement, repipes, sewer line repairs
- Mechanical: new or relocated furnace/AC, ductwork, gas lines
- Exterior changes: enlarging or moving window/door openings, new roofing with sheathing replacement, siding in some jurisdictions
- Additions/major remodels: new rooms, finishing basements/attics, garage conversions, accessory dwelling units (ADUs)
- Site work: retaining walls beyond certain height, fences over height limits, sheds over size limits, swimming pools/spas
- Zoning triggers: setback encroachments, height increases, lot coverage changes, parking changes
What generally does not need a permit (varies by city)
- Painting, wallpaper, trim, and same-layout cabinets
- Flooring replacement (hardwood, LVP, tile) without subfloor or structural changes
- Countertops and non-structural backsplash
- Minor repairs like replacing a faucet, toilet, or light fixture on an existing circuit (some cities still require permits for water heaters, furnaces, and windows)
Common thresholds (examples—your city may differ)
Deck: permit often required if >30 in above grade or >200 sq ft
Fence: permit if >6 ft (street-facing often >4 ft)
Egress window: net clear opening ~5.7 sq ft; sill ≤44 in above floor
Sheds: permit if >120–200 sq ft or with utilities
Roof: permit often required for tear-off; overlay limits apply
Water heater/furnace: usually permitted and inspected
Step-by-step: how to verify and proceed
- Define your scope
- Write a one-paragraph description of what you plan to do. List rooms, dimensions, and which systems (structural, electrical, plumbing, mechanical) are affected.
- Check your local rules
- Search: “[Your City] building permits homeowner.” Look for “Do I need a permit?” guides and permit checklists. Many cities have project-specific handouts.
- Call or email the permit desk
- Provide your scope, address, and any special conditions (corner lot, historic district, HOA). Ask which permit types apply, submittal requirements, fees, and estimated review time.
- Prepare documents
- Site plan (lot, setbacks, utilities), floor plan, elevations, simple framing plan if structural, fixture locations, product cut sheets (windows, water heater, EVSE), and energy compliance forms if required.
- Submit
- Many jurisdictions accept online submittals. You’ll pay fees upfront or at issuance. Small projects (water heater, panel upgrade) are often same-day or over-the-counter.
- Post the permit and schedule inspections
- Typical inspections: rough (framing/electrical/plumbing/HVAC), insulation/air sealing, and final. Plan on 24–72 hours’ notice for scheduling.
- Keep records
- Save the approved plans, inspection cards, and photos of concealed work.
Tools and materials that help with permitting
- Measuring and layout: 25–35 ft tape, laser distance meter, stud finder, torpedo level
- Documentation: graph paper or sketch software, printer, clear permit sleeve for posting, blue painter’s tape for marking layouts
- Verification and safety: non-contact voltage tester, GFCI tester, gas leak detector, flashlight/headlamp
- Job prep: smartphone or camera for progress photos; utility marking paint/flags for site layouts
You can find these tool types in the ToolStash catalog: laser distance meters, stud finders, non-contact voltage testers, and gas leak detectors.
Safety considerations
- Never open structural members, electrical panels, gas lines, or pressurized plumbing without the proper permit and know-how.
- Call 811 before digging for decks, fences, or landscaping with footings.
- For homes built before 1980–1990, test for lead paint and asbestos before demolition.
- Use PPE: eye/ear protection, gloves, respirator when cutting or demoing.
- De-energize circuits and verify with a tester; cap gas lines and verify with a leak detector.
Tips for best results
- Bring photos and a simple sketch to the permit counter—it speeds up guidance.
- Over-document concealed work: take clear, well-lit photos before closing walls.
- Plan for code “triggers” such as smoke/CO alarms, arc-fault/GFCI protection, tempered glass near tubs, and egress requirements.
- Coordinate with your HOA and check historic-district rules before submitting.
- Schedule inspections a day or two early; keep a buffer in your timeline.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Starting work before the permit is issued or changing scope midstream without revisions.
- Assuming a handyman exemption covers structural, electrical, gas, or plumbing work.
- Ignoring zoning (setbacks, height, lot coverage) or property lines when placing sheds, fences, or decks.
- Missing energy code items (window U-factor/SHGC, duct sealing, insulation R-values).
- Failing to call for a final inspection—this can delay future sales or refinancing.
Costs and timelines
- Small trade permits (water heater, simple electrical circuit): $50–$250; often same day.
- Moderate remodel permits (bath/kitchen without structural changes): $200–$800; review 1–2 weeks.
- Structural/additions: $1,000+ with plan check; review 2–6+ weeks, sometimes more with zoning or engineering.
When to call a professional
- Structural changes (beams, load-bearing walls): consult a structural engineer or licensed contractor.
- Service upgrades, new subpanels, kitchen/bath rewires, or aluminum-to-copper transitions: licensed electrician.
- Gas lines, repipes, sewer work, or water heater flue changes: licensed plumber.
- New HVAC systems, duct redesign, or combustion air changes: licensed HVAC contractor.
- Historic districts, multifamily, or complex sites: consider a designer/architect or a permit expeditor.
If you’re unsure, a 5–10 minute call to your building department is the fastest way to get clarity—and it can save you rework, fines, and safety risks.