Black & Decker Jig saw blade for Navigator saw (wood cutting)

Why I reached for this blade

On routine yard cleanups and quick shop projects, I keep a Black & Decker Navigator SC500 handy because it splits duty between a compact jigsaw and a small powered handsaw. The heart of that setup, though, is the blade. The Navigator wood blade (model 74-591) has been my go-to OEM replacement for wood and plastic, and after plenty of cuts—from pruning small branches to chewing through plywood and trimming PVC—I have a clear sense of where it excels and where it doesn’t.

What it is

This is an OEM-authorized, US-made wood/plastic blade designed specifically for the Navigator and compatible models. It ships as a single blade, marked 74-591, and slots right into the Navigator’s blade clamp with the correct profile. If you own the SC500, the fit is a non-issue: it’s made for it. If you’re hoping to drop it into a standard T-shank jigsaw, this isn’t the right blade—this uses the Navigator’s proprietary interface.

A quick note on specs: the published dimensions (11.8 x 3.9 x 0.2 inches) look more like packaging measurements than blade length. Also, you’ll see odd fields like “Cordless vs Corded” and “Batteries Required”—they don’t apply to a blade. In practical terms, you’re getting one OEM wood/plastic blade, period.

Setup and installation

Installation on the Navigator is straightforward. The blade seats positively in the clamp and locks without fuss. There’s enough rigidity to feel confident in more aggressive, straight-ahead cuts, yet it’s still slim enough to manage mild curves in jigsaw mode. I like that the tang alignment prevents any wiggle once locked; it keeps the cut tracking predictable.

Because the Navigator is a convertible platform, you’ll notice different behavior in “handsaw” versus “jigsaw” configurations. The blade does its best, fastest work in straight, supported cuts. The shoe in jigsaw mode helps control deflection and gives you more accurate results in sheet goods.

Cutting performance in wood

This is a fast-cutting, general-purpose wood blade. The tooth geometry favors throughput over finish. On softwoods—2x stock, pine shelving, cedar fencing—it tears through quickly and keeps a clean-enough edge for framing and outdoor projects. In hardwoods like oak or maple, the feed rate slows but stays steady; I didn’t experience excessive burning, though you’ll want to let the saw do the work and avoid forcing the cut.

For yard work, it’s excellent. I used it on green branches up to small-diameter limbs, and the blade didn’t bog down. Sap and resin buildup happens, as it does with most wood blades; a quick clean with a citrus-based degreaser or mineral spirits restores the teeth. If your yard work includes older landscaping lumber with hidden fasteners, remember this is not a metal-cutting blade. Hitting a screw or nail will dull it immediately and may chip a tooth.

Curved cuts are fine within reason. This isn’t a scroll blade, but gentle arcs in plywood, OSB, and MDF are achievable without the cut wandering too much—as long as you maintain a consistent pace and keep the shoe planted. For cabinetry or finished furniture edges, the surface quality isn’t refined enough without sanding; I’d switch to a finer-tooth blade if you care about tear-out on veneered plywood or delicate hardwood faces.

Cutting plastic

In PVC, ABS, and polyethylene sheet, the blade performs well if you watch your speed. The Navigator has variable speed control, and dialing it down helps avoid melting. The gullets clear chips effectively, so I didn’t get the clogging you sometimes see with finer-tooth blades. For thicker PVC pipe, I score my line with a utility knife and use a light initial pass; that reduces chatter and gives a cleaner final edge.

For brittle plastics like acrylic, I still prefer a plastic-specific blade, but this one is serviceable if you keep the stroke speed low and support the workpiece on both sides of the cut.

Control, vibration, and tracking

The Navigator platform is relatively compact and light, and blade choice influences how much vibration you feel. With this blade, vibration is noticeable in freehand cuts on thin stock but manageable. Using a proper shoe contact point and clamping your work reduces chatter dramatically. Tracking is predictably straight in dimensional lumber. In thicker, denser stock, pushing too hard can cause the blade to deflect slightly and exit off-square on the far side; that’s typical of many consumer jigsaw blades. To minimize that, let the teeth feed at their own pace and use a shallow, steady angle of attack.

Durability and maintenance

Edge life is solid for an OEM wood blade. After several weekends of yard work plus shop tasks (plywood rips, some MDF shelf notches, and a handful of PVC cuts), the blade still cut quickly, with only a slight drop-off in aggressiveness. Green wood sap was the main culprit for perceived dulling; cleaning brought the bite back. I had no issues with tooth fracture or the blade bending out of true. It’s worth storing it in a sleeve or hanging it so the teeth aren’t banging around in a toolbox; that keeps the edge sharper longer.

I didn’t see any coating or finish designed to resist pitch buildup, but the teeth shed chips well, and resin removal was quick. If you routinely cut only dry, clean lumber, you’ll likely go many sessions before feeling the need to swap it out.

What could be better

• Availability and pack size: It’s sold as a single blade. For heavy users, a multipack option would be welcome, both for convenience and value.
• Finish quality: The cutting profile favors speed over finish. That’s fine for rough carpentry and yard work, but not ideal for visible edges on furniture-grade projects.
• Spec clarity: The published dimensions and battery-related fields can be confusing. Clear, blade-specific specs (actual tooth length and tooth count) would help users choose wisely.

Value and alternatives

As an OEM part, the Navigator wood blade makes the most sense for owners of the SC500 and similar Navigator models. The US manufacturing and proper fit earn it points in my book. Third-party blades for this platform exist, but compatibility and consistency vary; a misfit blade is frustrating and can be unsafe. If you depend on your Navigator for periodic pruning, quick demolition, and on-the-fly shop cuts, paying a bit more for the known quantity is reasonable.

If you need ultra-clean cuts in veneered panels, consider keeping a finer-tooth wood blade on hand and swapping as needed. For metal-fastener-laden material or demolition with unknowns, switch to a dedicated bi-metal blade rather than risking this one.

Practical tips for best results

• Keep the shoe firmly against the work to reduce vibration and improve accuracy.
• For plastic, slow the speed and use a light feed to avoid melting.
• In green or resinous wood, clean the blade periodically to restore cutting efficiency.
• Let the blade do the work; forcing the feed increases heat and deflection.
• Check for hidden metal in reclaimed lumber before cutting.

The bottom line

The Navigator wood blade does exactly what I expect from an OEM replacement: it fits correctly, cuts quickly through wood and plastic, and holds up across real-world tasks without drama. It’s not a finish blade, and it won’t forgive accidental encounters with metal, but for yard maintenance, rough carpentry, and general DIY, it’s a reliable workhorse. I recommend it for Navigator owners who want a dependable, US-made blade that prioritizes speed and compatibility. If your projects demand cleaner, furniture-grade edges, pair it with a finer-tooth companion blade; otherwise, this one will carry a lot of the day-to-day cutting without complaint.