YEZriler 12V Fuse Block, 6 Circuits Waterproof Marine Fuse Panel Relay Box Kit with LED Indicator Damp-Proof Cover, 12 Volt Fuse Box Kit ATO Blade Fuse Block for 12V/24V Automotive Car RV Truck Boat

A tidy electrical system is priceless on a small boat or overland rig. I put the Yezriler 6-circuit fuse block through its paces across two builds—a dedicated LiFePO4 house battery on a skiff and a compact auxiliary system in an SUV—and came away impressed by how much function they’ve packed into a small, well-thought-out form factor.

What it is and why it’s useful

This is a six-way ATO/ATC blade fuse block that consolidates your positive distribution into a single-stud input with six fused outputs along one side. The one-sided layout makes routing cleaner than many two-sided panels, especially in tight compartments. It’s rated for circuits up to 40A each (DC <80V) with a 150A max total input, which covers the majority of 12/24V automotive, marine, and RV accessories—lighting, electronics, pumps, small inverters, fridge compressors, and audio gear.

A clear polycarbonate cover snaps on securely, and there’s a spare fuse slot built in. Labels are included so you can mark each circuit. The headline convenience feature is the red LED indicator on each circuit: with a load present, the LED lights when a fuse blows, which makes troubleshooting faster.

Build quality and materials

The housing is PA66 with 15% glass fiber, and the terminals are nickel-plated copper. That’s a solid combination: the body feels rigid and heat-resistant, and the plating helps fend off corrosion. The flame-retardant rating is UL94V-0, which I appreciate in confined spaces where wire bundles live. Hardware quality is better than I expected at this price—threads are clean, the main stud seats squarely, and the cover’s shielding lip extends over the terminal screws to reduce accidental short risk from dropped tools or loose wire whiskers.

I measured the block against comparable marine panels on my bench. It’s notably more compact than the typical marine-grade alternatives with integrated negative buses. Part of the size savings comes from what this isn’t: there’s no built-in ground bus and no relays. It’s a straight fused positive distribution block—nothing more, nothing less.

Installation notes and best practices

• Main feed protection: Treat the fuse block as a downstream device. Put a properly sized main fuse or breaker as close to the battery as possible to protect the feeder cable. For a 150A max bus, size your upstream protection and cable for your actual expected load, not the absolute maximum.
• Cable sizing: For short runs supporting 60–100A total, I typically use 6 to 4 AWG copper on the main feed. For individual 10–20A circuits, 14 to 12 AWG is common; for 30–40A, 10 to 8 AWG. Adjust for run length and allowable voltage drop.
• Torque matters: The manufacturer’s guidance is sensible—about 1.5 Nm on the M4 screws and up to 3.5 Nm on the M5 main stud. With a torque driver, the threads held without drama. Don’t overdo it on ring-lug stacks; use properly sized lugs rather than doubling up under one screw.
• LED indicators: The LEDs light when a fuse is blown and a load path exists to ground. If your accessory isn’t connected or lacks a return path, don’t expect the LED to tell you much. That’s typical behavior for indicator-style blocks.
• Weather exposure: The cover is damp-proof, not submersible. In my boat install, I mounted it in a dry locker; under-hood in a vehicle, I placed it high and away from direct spray. Add dielectric grease to ring terminals and use adhesive-lined heat shrink in marine environments.

Real-world use

On the boat, I put each fish finder and the NMEA backbone on its own circuit, powered by a dedicated 100Ah LiFePO4 battery. The single-side wiring helped me keep service loops neat, and the labeling made it easy to trace later. I intentionally popped a 5A fuse to validate the indicator—LED lit as expected, cover came off and on without a fight, and the spare fuse holder was handy.

In the SUV, I fed a small 12V fridge, a pair of cargo lights, and a couple of accessory sockets. With roughly 20–25A continuous plus occasional lighting spikes, the block stayed cool to the touch after hours of use. Voltage drop across the block at these loads was negligible, as you’d expect with short internal paths and decent copper mass.

I also test-fit it under the hood for an auxiliary lighting setup. The compact footprint makes it easy to tuck near an existing fuse/relay box. It’s not ignition-protected, so keep it away from fuel vapor zones and hot exhaust components.

Strengths

• Clean, compact packaging: One-stud input and single-sided outputs simplify harnessing in tight spaces.
• Solid materials for the money: Glass-fiber-reinforced nylon body, nickel-plated copper, and a UL94V-0 flame rating inspire confidence.
• Thoughtful cover: Clear, secure, with shielding around the screws and a spare fuse slot.
• Useful indicators: The blown-fuse LEDs reduce troubleshooting time when a load is present.
• Sensible ratings: 40A per circuit and 150A total cover most auxiliary systems without flirting with the margins.

Limitations and gotchas

• No negative bus: You’ll need a separate ground distribution block to complete your system neatly. For marine installs, that’s basically a requirement.
• Not a relay center: Despite some product listings calling it a “relay box,” there are no relays. If you plan to switch high-current loads from a low-current trigger (e.g., lights via a cabin switch), add external relays.
• Weather resistance is limited: The cover is damp-proof, not a sealed IP-rated enclosure. Fine for under-hood and protected lockers, not for direct spray or bilge-level exposure.
• LED behavior expectations: The indicators rely on a return path; they won’t glow if there’s no load connected.

Who it’s for

• DIYers adding multiple accessories to a car, truck, or SUV who want to stop stacking ring terminals on a battery post.
• Small-boat and RV owners building modest DC subpanels for electronics, lighting, pumps, or refrigeration.
• Anyone seeking a compact, budget-friendly distribution point that still respects good electrical design.

If you need a larger, fully marinized panel with integrated negative bus and sealed construction, you’ll be looking at bulkier, more expensive options. Likewise, if your design consolidates switching and fusing in one place, a dedicated relay/fuse center may be a better fit.

Tips from the bench

• Label both ends of every run. The included stickers are a start; I supplement with heat-shrink markers at the device end.
• Stagger fuse sizes intentionally. Don’t just match device max ratings—size fuses to protect the smallest wire in each circuit.
• Keep a fuse assortment nearby. The included 5A–30A fuses are a nice touch for initial setup, but you’ll want spares tailored to your specific loads.

Recommendation

I recommend the Yezriler fuse block for compact, straightforward 12/24V distribution where you want clean wiring, reasonable current capacity, and quick diagnostics without paying a premium. It’s well-made for the price, easy to mount and service, and the single-sided layout punches above its weight in tight installs. Just plan on adding a separate negative bus, upstream main protection, and external relays where needed. If that aligns with how you build electrical systems, this little block is an easy piece to keep in your kit.