Chatovalo 12V Fuse Block, Chatovalo 6 Circuit Fuse Box, with LED Warning Indicator, for Automotive Marine RV

Why I reached for this fuse block

I needed a compact, tidy way to split a single 12V feed into multiple fused circuits in an RV electrical bay. The Chatovalo fuse block promised six circuits, a reasonable current ceiling (30A per circuit, 100A total), and LED indicators that light when a fuse blows—all in a small footprint. That checked the right boxes for a DIY-friendly distribution point that could sit between a battery bus and a mix of lighting, USB power, and accessory loads.

What’s in the box and first impressions

Out of the box, the fuse block arrived populated with standard ATO/ATC blade fuses: 5A (x2), 10A (x2), 15A (x4), and 20A (x4). Having a ready assortment on day one is helpful for getting circuits powered without a hunt for spares. The overall build feels solid for the price bracket. The base is rigid, the bus bars appear cleanly finished, and the hardware didn’t feel soft or prone to stripping during installation.

This is a six-circuit block rated up to 32V DC, intended for 12–24V systems. That covers automotive, marine, RV, UTV, and off-grid solar use cases. It’s not a sealed, marine-grade unit, so I’d keep it in a protected location. The form factor is compact enough to fit inside a small electrical compartment or battery box with room left for service loops and strain relief.

Layout and design choices

• Six fused outputs share a common input, with up to 30A per branch and 100A across the block.
• Standard ATO/ATC fuses make sourcing spares easy, and the included assortment covers most low-to-medium current accessory circuits.
• LED indicators are integrated next to each circuit and illuminate when that circuit’s fuse blows, which makes fault-finding significantly faster.

The indicator LEDs are the headliner here. Being able to glance at the block and see exactly which circuit has failed saves time, especially when the panel is buried in a bay or behind an access panel.

Installation experience

Wiring the block was straightforward. I mounted it on a flat plywood panel using pan-head screws and fed it from a battery-side bus through a main fuse. A few notes from the install:

• Size the main feed for your worst-case load. If you intend to approach the 100A block limit, run appropriately sized cable and protect it at the source with a main fuse (or breaker) to match the cable and expected load.
• Each branch should be fused to protect the wire, not just the device. For example, 15A is typically appropriate for 14 AWG, 10A for 16 AWG, and 30A for 10 AWG in short, protected runs. Always confirm against your environment and standards.
• Keep your grounds coherent. If your system uses a central negative bus, make sure each load’s return path is just as robust as the positive feed.
• Provide strain relief. Tie down the harness so the block isn’t carrying the weight of the loom.

The pre-installed fuses got me up and running quickly. For critical circuits, I swapped in brand-name fuses later to keep everything standardized with the rest of the rig.

Performance and electrical behavior

In use, the block behaved as expected. Voltage drop across the fuse and terminals was negligible for typical accessory loads. I ran a mix of LED lighting, a fridge controller circuit, a pair of USB-C chargers, and a small inverter relay trigger; none of these stressed the per-circuit 30A rating.

The LED blown-fuse indicators worked reliably, and they’re bright enough to spot with a quick glance. There’s one nuance worth noting: as with many LED-indicator blocks, there is a tiny “phantom” voltage present on the load side when a fuse is blown. On my bench, I measured roughly 1 mA of current through the indicator network in an open-fuse condition. That’s harmless for most loads and won’t power anything meaningful, but it can confuse a multimeter reading if you’re expecting a hard zero with the fuse removed. Two practical tips:

• Always verify a circuit under load. If you measure voltage with no load connected, the indicator path can make a dead circuit look slightly “live.”
• For ultra-low-current sensor circuits (milliamps), keep this behavior in mind. If it’s problematic, add a bleed resistor across the load or ensure the circuit has a defined input impedance so the phantom voltage collapses.

Thermally, the block stayed cool at the currents I tested. I would avoid pushing any single circuit right to 30A continuously unless you’ve got ample wire gauge, solid terminations, and good airflow. As with any distribution block, good crimps and torque on terminals matter more than the printed rating.

Where this block makes sense

• RV accessory distribution: lights, fans, USB, pumps, DC-DC charger triggers, and relay control lines.
• Automotive add-ons: auxiliary lighting, radios, dash cams, aftermarket gauges, and fridge circuits.
• Small boats and off-grid enclosures: modest house loads in dry compartments.

If you’re building a system that regularly sees salt spray, submersion, or persistent humidity, I’d look at a sealed, tinned-copper, marine-grade alternative. This block is better suited to dry interior spaces or protected compartments.

What I liked

• Clear fault isolation: The LED indicators meaningfully reduce troubleshooting time.
• Ready to use: Pre-populated fuses let you power up immediately and adjust ratings as you finalize loads.
• Standard parts: ATO/ATC fuses are everywhere, and the 32V DC rating fits the common 12/24V ecosystem.
• Sensible ratings: 30A per circuit and 100A total comfortably cover most accessory builds without needing multiple panels.

What could be better

• Not weather-sealed: It’s not designed for exposed, corrosive environments. Plan accordingly.
• LED leakage quirk: The small indicator current is normal for this style, but it’s a point of awareness if you expect an absolutely dead open-circuit measurement.
• Circuit capacity ceiling: Heavy continuous loads near 30A are better handled via relays and short runs, with this block protecting the control and moderate-current branches.

Practical tips from use

• Fuse at the source: Place a main fuse or breaker close to the battery feeding this block. Don’t rely solely on the branch fuses for upstream cable protection.
• Match fuse to wire: Choose the smallest fuse that safely supports the load and protects the conductor.
• Label everything: Mark each circuit at the block and at the device. Future-you will be grateful at 10 p.m. in a campground.
• Keep spares handy: Toss a small organizer with common ATO values (5–30A) in the same compartment.
• Test under load: Validate each circuit with the intended device running to avoid being misled by indicator leakage.

The bottom line

The Chatovalo fuse block is a straightforward, compact way to bring order to a 12–24V DC wiring project. It hits the practical features most DIYers and pros want—standard blade fuses, sane current ratings, and quick visual diagnostics—without overcomplicating the layout or the install. It’s not a premium, sealed marine unit, and it’s not meant to be. In a protected location, it does the job cleanly and predictably.

Recommendation: I recommend this fuse block for automotive, RV, and off-grid projects that need a tidy six-circuit distribution point in a dry environment. The LED indicators genuinely help with maintenance, the included fuses get you started fast, and the current ratings cover typical accessory loads. If you need weatherproofing or plan to operate near the limits continuously, step up to a sealed, marine-grade panel; otherwise, this is an easy, cost-effective choice that performs as advertised.