REBUILD SKILLS 8-Circuit Fuse Block: Universal Power Distribution for Vehicles & Boats | Waterproof Marine Grade | Easy Installation & Enhanced Safety | Ideal for Lights, Radios, GPS

A tidy electrical system is one of those upgrades you appreciate every single time you flip a switch. I installed this 8‑circuit fuse block from REBUILD SKILLS in my overland pickup to clean up a growing collection of lights, a fridge, a ham radio, and a GPS puck. After a few weeks of highway, washboard, and a very wet weekend, I have a good feel for where it shines—and where you’ll want to plan around its limitations.

What it is and why I chose it

At its core, this is a straightforward, marine‑grade, 8‑circuit fused distribution block. It accepts common ATO/ATC blade fuses, supports both 12 V and 24 V systems, is rated to 100 A for the whole block, and up to 30 A per individual circuit. That strikes a sweet spot for most vehicle and small boat accessories: light bars, work lights, cabin lighting, radios, pumps, and small inverters, among others.

I picked it because I wanted something compact, simple, and durable—no relays on board, no CAN trickery, just passive distribution and protection. The housing is sealed and the mounting footprint is small, which matters in crowded engine bays and damp compartments.

Build and layout

The unit feels purpose‑built rather than flashy. The housing is stout and the cover fits tightly, with a gasket that does its job. The bus bar and fuse sockets are aligned cleanly and accept fuses with a positive click. It is clearly designed for real-world vibration and the occasional spray of water.

There are pre‑drilled mounting holes that made placement easy on a vertical bulkhead. The terminals are generous for typical accessory wiring, and there’s enough finger room to insert and pull fuses without removing the whole block. It’s a practical layout: eight fused outputs on a common feed, each isolated from the others so a fault on one circuit doesn’t cascade.

A note on expectations: this is a fused positive distribution block. It doesn’t include a negative/ground bus. That’s not a flaw, just something to plan for—especially in boats or fiberglass-bodied vehicles where chassis ground isn’t an option.

Also, mine did not include fuses in the box. Have a selection of ATO/ATC fuses on hand so you can size each circuit correctly.

Installation experience

I mounted the block on a steel bracket near the passenger-side fender, about 18 inches from the auxiliary battery. The pre‑drilled holes lined up well with rivnut spacing, so it was just mark, drill, and bolt.

A few practical tips from the install:

• Size the main feed appropriately. Although the block is rated for 100 A, your actual continuous load is likely far less. For my mix (roughly 40–50 A peak), I ran 6 AWG tinned copper with a 60 A ANL fuse at the battery. For full 100 A potential, 4 AWG is a safer bet depending on run length.
• Fuse the feed close to the source. On boats, ABYC guidance is within 7 inches of the battery; for vehicles, the same principle applies. Protect the cable from chafe with loom or heat‑shrink where it enters the engine bay.
• Use proper terminations. Quality crimp lugs, adhesive‑lined heat shrink, and stainless hardware are worth the small extra cost. If you operate in salt or winter road salt, tinned copper lugs and dielectric grease on terminals pay dividends.
• Label as you go. The block doesn’t have printed circuit labels, so I used a label maker on the cover and heat‑shrink markers on each lead. Future‑me will be grateful.

Wiring the individual circuits was straightforward: each accessory’s positive lead goes to its own fused position, and grounds return to my vehicle’s ground bus. The compactness helps; I didn’t feel like I was building a spaghetti bowl on the first day of a road trip.

Performance and safety

In use, the block behaved exactly the way I wanted a passive component to behave: predictably and quietly. I staged a few fault tests with inline loads and intentionally blown fuses to confirm isolation—no surprises there. The per‑circuit 30 A rating covers most common accessories, and the 100 A total rating is adequate if you size your fuses and wire realistically.

One important design consideration: eight circuits at 30 A each would be 240 A on paper, but the block is limited to 100 A total. In practice, you rarely run all circuits at maximum simultaneously. A more realistic mix looks like this: two 10 A light circuits, a 15 A fridge, a 5 A radio, a 3 A GPS, and a few low‑draw accessories. That’s 43 A, well within headroom.

Voltage drop remained negligible with the wire gauges I chose; LEDs and the fridge compressor didn’t show any nuisance cutouts even under load with headlights, blower, and a winch solenoid coil energized (the winch itself is on a separate protected feed, as it should be).

As for “waterproof,” I don’t abuse components, but I did hose down the engine bay after a muddy trail day. No moisture under the cover, no corrosion starting at the terminals two weeks later. I won’t promise it’s submersible, but I’m comfortable calling it weather‑resistant enough for sensible marine and off‑road use.

Living with it

The everyday benefit is organization. Faults are quick to isolate, and adding new accessories is painless—strip, crimp, land, fuse, label. The block’s compact footprint makes it easy to reserve space for future circuits without committing to a massive enclosure.

Noise-sensitive gear like my ham radio appreciated having a clean, fused feed rather than piggybacking off a cigarette lighter circuit. And with individually sized fuses, I don’t worry about a small gauge wire being protected by an oversized upstream fuse.

What could be better

• No included fuses. Not a dealbreaker, but it’s convenient when a block ships with a starter assortment. Plan to buy an ATO/ATC kit so you can tailor each circuit.
• No integrated negative bus. If you need a tidy return path next to your fused positives, you’ll want a separate ground block. In boats and fiberglass campers, that’s almost mandatory.
• No relay integration. This is by design, but worth stating. High‑current lighting or compressor circuits often need relays for switching; this block doesn’t replace those. Think of it as protection and distribution, not control.

None of these are flaws so much as scope clarifications. This product stays in its lane, and that’s part of its appeal.

Who it’s for

• Vehicle builders adding multiple accessories who want something compact, durable, and simple.
• Small to mid‑size boats needing a weather‑resistant fused distribution point for electronics and lighting.
• Van converters and UTV owners who prefer blade fuses over thermal breakers and want easy field serviceability.

If you need more than eight circuits, an integrated ground bus, or a higher total current capacity, you might look at larger panels or breaker‑based systems. But for most auxiliary builds, eight circuits at these ratings hit a nice balance of capability and size.

Bottom line

This 8‑circuit fuse block does exactly what a good electrical component should: it disappears into the background and quietly raises the reliability of everything downstream. The build is sturdy, installation is straightforward, and the ratings are honest. It doesn’t try to be an all‑in‑one solution—no relays, no ground bus, no extras in the box—but that simplicity is a strength if you value clear, serviceable wiring.

I recommend it. It’s a dependable, compact way to consolidate power distribution in a vehicle or boat, with sensible current limits and the flexibility of ATO/ATC fuses. Just budget for a handful of fuses and, if you need it, a separate ground bus. Set up thoughtfully, it’s the kind of upgrade you’ll forget about—until the day a fuse does its job and saves a much more expensive piece of gear.