DeWalt Circular Saw Rip Fence

I reach for a rip fence whenever a chalk line won’t cut it—literally and figuratively. DeWalt’s metal rip fence is the simple accessory that makes a handheld circular saw track like it’s on rails. After using it across several saws in the shop and on-site, I’ve come to appreciate its straightforward design, its limitations, and the small setup choices that make a big difference in cut quality.

Build and design

This is a no-frills, all-metal guide and that’s a compliment. At about 0.78 lb (roughly 12.5 oz), it’s rigid without feeling clumsy, and it shrugs off the dings a tool bag dishes out. The crossbar is 5/8 in. wide and 1/8 in. thick by my calipers, and the overall length is just over 12 in. The fence face—the part that rides the stock’s edge—gives you a healthy amount of bearing surface at about 5-3/4 in. long. That extra length keeps the saw naturally parallel to an edge, even on slightly wavy board faces.

The stamped scales on the bar are easy to read and, critically, mirrored for use on either side of the blade. I’m a fan of that ambidextrous layout; working left or right of the saw lets me choose the safer or more stable stance depending on grain, sawdust direction, and where the offcut will fall.

Fit and finish are what you’d expect from a branded accessory: no sharp burrs, squared-up fence face, and a thumb screw and spring that feel a cut above the generic kits. The included fastener is M6 x 1.25 (about 1/2 in. long), compatible with many DeWalt shoes that are already tapped.

Setup and compatibility

Installation is as fast as sliding the bar through the saw’s front slots and locking it down with the thumb screw. There’s no fiddly bracketry or secondary clamps. That said, the simplicity of the design means compatibility depends entirely on the shoe casting of your saw.

DeWalt lists compatibility with select 7-1/4 in. models, including the DWE575/DWE575SB and others in that family. In my hands-on use, the fence works perfectly with the DWE575B corded saw and the 20V MAX DCS570 and FLEXVOLT DCS578 cordless saws. The bar slides smoothly, there’s no slop, and the screw bites with confidence.

On the other side of the aisle, several compact 6-1/2 in. DeWalt saws have narrower rip slots. On both a DCS393 and a DCS391 I tried, the shoe slot measured roughly 7/16 in. wide, which won’t accept the 5/8 in. bar—non-starter. I also couldn’t mount it on a DCS565. If you’re unsure, grab a ruler or calipers: measure the width of the rip-guide slot in your saw’s base. If it’s under 5/8 in., this fence won’t fit. It’s a two-minute check that saves a return.

Compatibility bottom line:
- Works well on DeWalt’s mainstream 7-1/4 in. sidewinders I tested (corded and 20V/FLEXVOLT).
- Does not fit several 6-1/2 in. models due to narrow slots.
- Uses an M6 x 1.25 screw; confirm your shoe is tapped for it.

Capacity and accuracy

Capacity depends on your saw’s shoe and where the slots are positioned, but in practical terms you can rip from very narrow strips up to roughly 6 in. or a bit more with a 7-1/4 in. saw. That covers decking, shelf rips, stud trimming, fence pickets, face frames in a pinch, and most board edging on site. For full-sheet plywood rips or anything over that range, a clamp-edge guide or a track saw is still the better solution.

Out of the box, the stamped scale gets you close, but every saw-blade-kerf combo is different. I always do a quick calibration:
1) Set the fence to a round-number setting using the scale.
2) Make a test cut in scrap.
3) Measure the offcut and note the offset between the scale and reality.
4) Mark that offset on the bar with a fine scribe or Sharpie for your usual blade kerf.

Once you’ve done that, repeatability is very good. I was getting parallel cuts within a few thousandths across a 4-ft rip on dimensional lumber. On sheet goods, the guiding edge of the stock matters—if the edge isn’t straight, you’ll faithfully follow its imperfections. A couple of passes with a jointer plane or a quick true-up cut against a track pays off.

In use

The fence shines for fast, repeatable rips. Breaking down 2x stock into 1-1/2 in. strips? Set it once and run the parts. Edging rough 1x lumber? The long fence face keeps the plate naturally aligned. I particularly like using it to trim door bottoms or scribe wide casing—when you want a perfectly parallel cut relative to an existing edge, this is faster than laying out lines.

The ability to mount the fence on either side of the blade is more than a convenience. Ripping on the left side keeps the saw’s motor away from a fence or wall, and it helps with sightlines if you’re right-handed. On resinous construction lumber, I’ll sometimes hit the fence face with paste wax or dry lube. That reduces friction, keeps feed smooth, and prevents micro-steering as knots and earlywood/latewood transitions tug on the fence.

I didn’t notice any meaningful flex, even when pushing hard through LVL or dense hardwood, provided the thumb screw was firmly tightened. The bar is thick enough to resist twisting, and the fence face stays square to the base. If you do feel chatter, it’s usually one of three culprits: a dull blade, a rough stock edge, or a fence face that needs a quick de-grease and wax.

Limitations and nitpicks

• Compatibility confusion: Because DeWalt uses different shoe castings across models, there’s no universal fit within their own lineup. Measure your slot width before you buy. If you run multiple saws, you may need more than one style of fence.
• Capacity: Like all shoe-mounted fences, it’s not a track-saw replacement. Rips wider than about 6 in. are possible but awkward; a clamp guide is smoother beyond that.
• No micro-adjust: Adjustments are quick but coarse. For cabinet-grade tolerances, I sneak up on a final width with one light cleanup pass.
• Finish: The bare metal looks fine and holds up, but a painted or anodized fence face would reduce marking on soft woods and improve glide. Not a dealbreaker—wax solves it.

Tips for best results

• Calibrate once with your preferred blade and mark the offset on the scale.
• Check that the fence face is parallel to the blade slot before tightening; nudge it tight to the shoe to remove any play.
• Dress the stock edge: one cleanup pass on the jointer or a straightedge-guided cut pays dividends in accuracy.
• Use the left-side mounting option when clearance or sightline improves safety and control.
• Keep a dedicated M6 driver or the included thumb screw in the saw case so you’re never hunting for hardware.

Durability and warranty

After rides in a jobsite bag and plenty of pine pitch, the fence is still straight and the scales are legible. The thumb screw threads haven’t galled or stripped. As with the rest of DeWalt’s accessories, you get a 3-year limited warranty, one year of free service, and a 90-day satisfaction guarantee. That’s generous for a simple accessory and adds peace of mind.

Who it’s for

• Carpentry and framing crews who need fast, repeatable rips on 2x and sheet edges without setting up tracks.
• Remodelers and finish carpenters who want parallel trims on doors, jambs, and built-ins.
• DIYers who prefer a compact, inexpensive path to straighter cuts compared to full guide systems.

If your saw is compatible and you routinely rip narrower widths, this is a big upgrade for very little complexity.

Recommendation

I recommend this rip fence—with a clear caveat about compatibility. On the 7-1/4 in. DeWalt saws I tested (corded and 20V/FLEXVOLT), it installs in seconds, stays square, and delivers reliably parallel cuts. The dual-sided scales, long fence face, and all-metal build make it a dependable, toss-in-the-bag accessory that speeds up a surprising amount of everyday work. If you’re running a 6-1/2 in. DeWalt saw with the narrower guide slots, it won’t fit; measure your shoe’s slot width first. For the right saw, though, this fence is a simple, durable way to get track-like guidance without the setup time or cost of a full guide system.