PC Products PC-Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste Kit with Mixing Tool, Two-Part 6 oz in Two Cans, Tan

Why I reached for PC‑Woody

A rotted window sill can turn a simple paint job into a carpentry project. On a recent exterior refresh, I uncovered punky trim, screw holes that no longer held fast, and a chunked-out corner that would have meant replacing the entire board. I reached for PC‑Woody, a two-part epoxy paste, to see if I could restore the original profiles instead of rebuilding them.

What’s in the kit

The kit is straightforward: two cans (Part A and Part B) totaling 6 oz in tan, plus a mixing tool. It’s a paste—think peanut-butter consistency—meant to replace missing or rotted wood rather than just skim coat. It’s rated for indoor and outdoor use, resists dry rot, UV, fresh and salt water, and can be applied at 35–115°F with a service range down to −20°F and up to 200°F. In other words, it’s built for real-world conditions and exterior work.

Mixing and working time

PC‑Woody mixes 1:1 by volume. I strongly recommend portioning equal volumes onto a flat mixing board and using the included tool to blend until the color is uniform. Don’t try to “squish” it together with gloved hands—that’s a recipe for contamination and off-ratio blending. The manufacturer also warns against mixing in tiny (teaspoon) batches, and I can see why: too small a sample makes it easy to guess wrong on ratio and end up with tacky spots that never cure properly.

The working time is generous; this is not a rapid-set epoxy. On a mild day (around 70°F), I had plenty of time to press it into voids, shape profiles, and clean up edges. The trade-off is cure speed. Expect to leave it overnight before aggressive sanding or machining. This slow cure is a feature in some scenarios—big gap fills and detailed sculpting—but it means you can’t patch at lunch and paint by dinner.

Application: prep, build, and shape

Success with any wood repair compound begins with prep:

• Remove all loose and rotted wood. I use a chisel, oscillating tool, and a stiff brush.
• Make sure the area is dry. Trapping moisture invites problems.
• For deep voids, undercut edges slightly so the epoxy locks in mechanically.
• Dust off thoroughly.

The paste’s high tack is a double-edged sword. It’s excellent for staying put on vertical surfaces and in overhead repairs—no slumping or sagging in my experience—but it also wants to stick to your putty knife and ride back out of the hole. A few techniques help:

• Press it in with small, firm strokes rather than troweling long passes.
• Slightly overfill and plan to sand back after cure.
• Keep your tool clean. Wipe the blade frequently to prevent build-up.
• For deeper repairs, build in two lifts. The tack supports this well.

I used it to rebuild a rounded outside corner and to fill long grain splits. It feathers nicely at the edges if you take your time, and that tackiness keeps thin layers from curling or lifting.

Sanding, machining, and finishing

Once cured, PC‑Woody is hard—closer to wood than to a flexible filler. It sands cleanly and doesn’t gum up abrasives. Plan on 80–120 grit for rough shaping, then 180–220 for finishing before primer. I had no trouble routing a small chamfer after cure, and drilling for new screws felt confidence-inspiring. Where screw holes had wallowed out, the repaired substrate held threads tightly and didn’t flake.

Paint adhesion was excellent. After sanding and a quick dust-off, I primed with an exterior bonding primer and topcoated with acrylic latex. The tan base disappears under paint with no ghosting or telegraphing. I prefer to topcoat epoxy even if it’s advertised as UV resistant; it protects the repair and blends the sheen.

Outdoor performance

The real test for any epoxy paste is outdoors. I repaired exterior trim and a fascia return, then left them through a season of rain, sun, and freeze-thaw. PC‑Woody stayed stable: no shrink lines around the perimeter, no cracks, and no surface chalking showing through paint. The high tack during application translates to a solid interface with the wood; lightly undercut edges and proper prep make a difference here.

The wide application temperature range (35–115°F) is practical. I did one patch on a chilly morning in the high 40s; the paste was stiffer and the cure slower, but still workable. If you’re at the lower end of that range, expect to extend cure time. Conversely, in the heat you’ll have a shorter open time and a slightly softer mix during spread.

Strength and stability

PC‑Woody is not just a cosmetic filler. It bonds strongly and creates a repair you can actually use—screw into, plane lightly, and shape. For fastening into the repair (say, for a hinge screw that lost bite in the stile), I drill pilot holes and avoid over-torquing; the epoxy holds well when treated like hardwood. On larger rebuilds—like reconstructing a window sill nose—this paste has enough body to bridge broader spans when you back it with a form or build in lifts.

It’s worth noting what it’s not: it’s not a flexible caulk and not a structural beam repair product. Don’t use it across joints that move; it’s best on static, consolidated wood.

Usability trade-offs

Two aspects require patience:

• Stickiness during smoothing: That high tack that prevents sags also makes it tough to blade the surface perfectly flat. I treat this as a “sand to finish” system—get it close, then plan on sanding rather than chasing a perfect trowel finish. Overfilling slightly saves time later.
• Cure time: It cures slower than quick-dry fillers. If your schedule demands same-day paint, look elsewhere. If you value working time, gap-filling, and durability, the slower set is a fair trade.

The 6 oz size goes farther than you think for patch work, but a major rebuild can consume a kit quickly. For particularly punky substrates, I often consolidate the wood fibers first with a separate liquid consolidant; PC‑Woody adheres well to sound, sealed fibers, but it won’t solve moisture or rot that’s still active.

Practical tips from the bench

• Measure parts by volume, not by eye. Use the included tool on a flat, non-porous board and mix until the color is uniform.
• Avoid micro-batches. Mixing in teaspoon-sized amounts invites ratio errors and sticky cures.
• Work in lifts for deep cavities. The paste’s tack makes this easy and reduces trapped air.
• Overfill intentionally. It sands quickly once cured, and you’ll get crisper profiles.
• Prime before paint. Even with UV resistance, a primer and topcoat protect the repair and unify the sheen.

Where it shines, where it doesn’t

Best for:
- Exterior/interior trim, sills, casings, and fascia with missing or rotted sections
- Rebuilding corners, edges, and profiles where sag-free paste helps
- Restoring screw holding strength in stripped holes
- Environments with temperature swings and moisture exposure

Less ideal for:
- Joints that move (use a flexible system there)
- Projects requiring same-day paint
- Ultra-small touch-ups where precise ratio is hard to achieve

Verdict

PC‑Woody has become a go-to in my kit for serious wood repairs. Its peanut-butter body, high tack, and slow, steady cure make it easy to place and sculpt, and once it sets, it behaves like a dense, machinable wood. It sands cleanly, takes paint well, and stands up to weather. The trade-offs—sticky during application and not a fast cure—are manageable with good prep and workflow.

Recommendation: I recommend PC‑Woody for anyone tackling rot repair, missing trim sections, or stripped screw holes where longevity matters. If you can spare the cure time and aren’t expecting a butter-smooth trowel finish straight off the knife, it rewards you with durable, paint-ready repairs that hold up season after season.