MAXXHAUL 80778 Magnetic Towing Light Kit

I keep a few “get-me-home” solutions in the shop for problem trailers, and a magnetic light kit is one of them. The MaxxHaul kit has been riding in my truck box for several months now, and it’s bailed me out more than once—from a late‑night boat retrieval with corroded wiring to a neighbor’s utility trailer with a mystery short. It’s a straightforward, plug‑and‑go way to restore legal lighting without rewiring a whole trailer under a deadline.

What’s in the kit and setup

The kit is simple: two round lamps with heavy magnetic bases, a 20‑foot color‑coded harness, and a standard 4‑flat connector. Each lamp is dual‑sided—red to the rear for tail/brake/turn duties and amber forward as a flasher/marker. The lamps are DOT‑approved for use on towed vehicles up to 80 inches wide.

Setup is quick. I clean a flat steel spot near each rear corner, set the magnets, then run the harness forward along the frame or rail, avoiding sharp edges and hot surfaces. The magnets have a rated 11‑lb pull, which feels substantial when you try to slide a lamp; you have to lift them to move them. With the 4‑flat plugged into the tow vehicle, it’s a matter of checking functions: running lights, left/right turn, and brakes. Because the harness is color‑coded, troubleshooting is painless if something doesn’t light.

A few quick tips that help:
- Clean the mounting spot to bare steel; road grime or paint overspray cuts magnetic grip dramatically.
- Route the wire with slack at the lamps to avoid tugging on bumps, and add a couple of reusable zip ties as strain relief.
- Position the amber faces forward so you can see them in your side mirrors; they make it easy to watch the trailer’s corners at night.

On‑road performance

Illumination is adequate. These are incandescent bulbs, not LEDs, and they produce a warm, even light that’s clearly visible at night and in poor weather. In bright midday sun the brake and turn signals are still readable, though they don’t have the crisp punch of a good LED pod. For most temporary towing, especially dawn/dusk or night trips, they do the job.

The dual‑sided design is genuinely useful. The amber face gives you a visual anchor for the trailer’s width in your mirrors, which helps with lane placement and backing. It’s a small safety boost you don’t get with one‑sided “stick‑on” solutions.

The 20‑foot harness length has covered everything I’ve tried—from a compact pickup to a full‑size truck pulling a small boat trailer—without needing an extension. The 4‑flat connector is standard fare, and the ground return is solid when the plug and vehicle socket are clean. If you plug in and the running lights don’t come up, check the vehicle’s trailer‑lighting fuse and confirm a good ground at the 4‑flat; most “it doesn’t work” moments trace back to those two points.

Magnet hold and mounting realities

Magnetic bases are a tradeoff: you get versatility and speed at the cost of absolute security. On heavier trailers that ride smoothly, the magnets hold just fine at highway speeds. On lighter, springy trailers that bounce over expansion joints, you can induce a shearing force that even a strong magnet won’t resist forever.

Here’s what’s worked for me:
- Choose the flattest, thickest steel you can find. Curved or thin sheet flexes, weakening the hold.
- Add a secondary retention method on bouncy rigs. A short safety tether (paracord or a small cable looped through the lamp bracket and tied to the frame) prevents a catastrophic road drag if a light does pop off.
- Use painter’s tape or protective film under the base if the mounting surface is painted and you care about finish; magnets can trap grit and scratch.

If your trailer is aluminum, fiberglass, or otherwise non‑ferrous, magnets won’t help. In those cases I clamp a small steel plate or angle bracket to the frame and stick the magnets to that, or switch to a different temporary lighting solution designed for non‑steel bodies.

Durability and weather

For a temporary kit, these lamps are reasonably robust. The housings are basic stamped shells with snap‑on lenses. They’re water‑resistant enough for rain and road spray; I haven’t had condensation issues after wet runs. That said, I treat them like the temporary gear they are—wipe them down after salt exposure and store them inside rather than leaving them mounted outdoors.

One minor note: the snap‑fit lenses should be seated fully. I press along the perimeter until I feel a uniform “bite.” If I’m sending them on a longer, rough trip, I’ll add a small ring of clear tape at the seam as cheap insurance. Bulb replacement is straightforward, and carrying one spare incandescent bulb in the tool bag is never a bad idea.

Use cases where the kit shines

• Diagnosing or bypassing a trailer wiring fault without crawling under the frame in the dark.
• Swapping between multiple small trailers—utility, PWC, and yard trailers—when you don’t want to maintain three sets of aging lights.
• Temporary towing after a fender repair or repaint, when permanent light fixtures are off the vehicle.
• As a backup kit on road trips; if a trailer light fails mid‑route, you’re not stuck at a parts store parking lot with a crimp kit.

Limitations and things to watch

• Under 80 inches only: If your trailer is wider, you need a different lighting setup to stay compliant.
• Not LED: If you want maximum daytime punch, lower current draw, or essentially maintenance‑free bulbs, an LED kit is a better choice. This kit trades a bit of brightness and longevity for cost and compatibility.
• No license plate illumination: If your plate needs to be lit, you’ll have to address that separately.
• Finish care: Magnets and grit can mark paint. Clean both surfaces before mounting.
• Dynamic loads: On very light, springy trailers, plan a backup retention method beyond magnets.

Troubleshooting quick hits

• Nothing lights: Confirm the tow vehicle’s 4‑flat is powered (some trucks require a trailer‑tow fuse) and that the ground pin has good contact.
• Running lights work but no turn signals/brakes: Check vehicle fuses for trailer left/right stop/turn circuits and inspect the harness connection at the plug for bent pins.
• One lamp out: Swap bulbs side‑to‑side to isolate a bulb vs. wiring issue.

Because the harness is color‑coded and the lamps are simple, fixes are quick with a test light or multimeter.

Value and alternatives

The MaxxHaul kit sits in the “practical and affordable” end of the spectrum. You’re paying for flexibility and speed rather than premium output or armored housings. If you tow frequently and want set‑and‑forget performance, a permanently wired LED light set is the upgrade path. If you only need a compliant, dependable temporary solution that lives in the truck until you need it, this kit hits the mark.

Final thoughts

I judge temporary lighting by three things: ease of deployment, visibility, and whether it stays put. The MaxxHaul kit scores well on the first two and is conditionally good on the third—great on solid, clean steel, and adequate with a safety tether on bouncy trailers. The dual‑sided lamps and long harness make real‑world towing easier, especially at night, and the standard connector keeps compatibility headaches to a minimum.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone who needs an inexpensive, plug‑and‑go temporary lighting solution for trailers and towed vehicles under 80 inches wide. It’s easy to deploy, DOT‑approved, and bright enough for safe night use. Just be mindful of mounting surface prep, add a secondary tether on lightweight springy trailers, and understand that incandescent bulbs won’t match LED punch in midday sun. For emergency use, diagnostics, and occasional towing, it’s exactly the right tool to keep in the truck.