DeWalt U-shank wood-cutting jig saw blades (cobalt alloy steel)

Why I reached for these blades

A weekend of trim repairs and deck-board swaps gave me the perfect excuse to put DeWalt’s U‑shank wood jigsaw blades through their paces. I’m working with an older jigsaw that still uses U‑shank blades, so finding a durable, fast-cutting option matters. This 5‑pack of 4-inch, 6 TPI blades promised speed and longevity with cobalt-alloy (bi‑metal) construction and precision-ground teeth. After several hours in softwood framing, 3/4-inch oak, and plywood, I have a clear sense of where these blades shine—and where they don’t.

Setup and compatibility

These are U‑shank blades designed for jigsaws that specifically accept a universal U‑style shank. If you’re running a newer saw, there’s a good chance it takes T‑shank blades only; double-check your user manual. On my older saw, the blades seated cleanly and locked down without fuss. The shank machining is consistent across the pack, and I didn’t have any issues with slippage or misalignment, even after the saw warmed up. If your saw uses a screw clamp, give it a snug retighten after the first few cuts—standard practice with U‑shanks.

Cutting performance in wood

At 6 teeth per inch, these are tuned for fast, aggressive cuts in wood rather than fine finish work. In 2x SPF studs with the orbital action on medium, the blades moved quickly without feeling grabby. The deeper gullets do their job; chips clear efficiently, especially in resinous pine that can clog cheaper blades. In pressure-treated deck boards, I saw the same behavior: fast cuts with predictable feed pressure and no hot spots or binding.

DeWalt calls out precision-ground teeth for smoother cuts, and there’s something to that. For a 6 TPI blade, the top-surface tear-out was better controlled than I expected—still present on plywood and veneered stock (as it always is with up-cut jigsaw blades), but less ragged than I typically see in generic 6 TPI options. If you’re concerned about the show face, flip the workpiece so the finished surface faces down, turn the orbital action down or off, and slow the feed. With painter’s tape along the cut line and a backer board under plywood, I got acceptably clean edges for utility cuts.

In hardwoods, these blades remain in control if you moderate the feed and drop the orbital setting to zero. I cut 3/4-inch red oak and maple without chatter; edges weren’t furniture-grade, but square and usable. I wouldn’t pick these for visible cabinetry cuts—that’s the domain of higher TPI or down-cut/clean-cut profiles—but for general carpentry and rough-to-semi-finish work, they hold their own.

Line tracking and control

Blade wander is the perennial challenge with jigsaws, especially in thicker stock and tight curves. These blades track straighter than most fast-cut profiles I’ve used. They seem slightly stiffer than basic high-carbon blades, and that extra rigidity helps them resist deflection when you keep the base firmly planted and let the teeth do the work. Straight cuts on 2x lumber stayed within a saw kerf width of my scribed line without fighting me.

For curves, a realistic radius with this blade is moderate—think gentle arcs and circles down to a few inches across. Tight scroll work isn’t what a 6 TPI, fast-cut blade is for, and trying to force it will leave a scorched edge and an unhappy blade. For cleaner curves, slow down and reduce orbit, or switch to a narrower, higher TPI profile.

Vibration was minimal as long as the feed rate was matched to the material. If you push too hard, any jigsaw will let you know; with these blades, backing off pressure a touch restored smooth cutting and chip evacuation.

Durability and heat management

The cobalt-alloy (bi‑metal) construction is the highlight here. Compared to standard high-carbon steel blades, these stay sharp noticeably longer. After several dozen feet of cuts in SPF, some hardwood rips, and a few plunge cuts through plywood, the teeth still felt keen and the blade tips remained intact. I accidentally grazed a small brad while trimming a painted casing; the blade dulled a touch but didn’t chip teeth or lose set, and I finished the cut.

Heat buildup was well controlled. The deeper gullets not only help with chip clearance, they reduce friction and heat in thick stock. Even after repeated cuts, I didn’t see the telltale bluing that signals an overheated blade. That matters for U‑shank users because the last thing you want is a hot blade loosening in an older clamp.

Materials and applications

Where these blades excel:
- Softwood framing, subfloor patches, and deck boards
- Fast rip and crosscuts in construction lumber
- Plywood utility cuts when the show face is down
- Notching, rough cutouts for sinks or vents
- General demolition where speed matters more than pristine edges

Where they’re less ideal:
- Veneered plywood or laminates that demand clean top edges
- Tight radii and scroll work
- Non-ferrous or ferrous metals (they’re wood blades; the bi‑metal helps with longevity, not metal cutting)
- Finish carpentry where a fine, polished edge is required

If you often cut melamine, veneered sheet goods, or visible trim, keep a higher TPI, clean-cut or down-cut blade on hand. Use these DeWalt blades when you need to move quickly through wood and maintain reasonable edge quality.

Practical tips for best results

• Match the orbital setting to the task: 2–3 for fast cuts in softwood; 0–1 for hardwoods and cleaner edges.
• Keep the shoe flat and steady; let the blade clear chips—forcing the cut increases wander and tear-out.
• For cleaner plywood cuts, tape the line and use a backer. Flip the work so the good face is down.
• If your saw uses a screw-clamp for U‑shanks, double-check tightness after the first warm-up cut.
• Replace the blade when you feel increased feed pressure or see burnishing; running a dull jigsaw blade overheats stock and invites deflection.

Fit and finish

The pack includes five blades, all consistent in grind and set. The edges come sharp out of the sleeve, with uniform tooth geometry that matches DeWalt’s “precision-ground” claim. The U‑shank machining is clean, with no burrs to interfere with older clamps. At 4 inches, they’re a versatile length for most jigsaw tasks—long enough for 1-1/2-inch stock with room to spare, but not so long that they whip.

What could be better

The biggest limitation is compatibility. U‑shank blades are increasingly a legacy standard; if you own a modern jigsaw, odds are you’ll need T‑shank blades. That’s not a knock on the blades themselves, but it’s worth emphasizing for buyers who might assume “universal” means truly universal.

Also, while the precision-ground teeth improve the finish for a 6 TPI blade, physics still wins: fast-cut profiles leave rougher edges. A clearly labeled mixed pack with both fast-cut and clean-cut U‑shank options would cover more ground for users who don’t want to hunt for separate SKUs.

The bottom line

These DeWalt U‑shank wood blades are a strong choice if you run an older jigsaw and need fast, reliable cutting in wood. They track straighter than many generic fast-cut blades, clear chips efficiently, and their cobalt-alloy construction meaningfully extends life compared with standard high-carbon steel. They won’t replace a fine-tooth blade for finish work or tight curves, and they’re not a solution for T‑shank saws. Within their lane—quick, controlled cuts in construction lumber and general carpentry—they perform exactly the way I want a 6 TPI blade to perform.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades to anyone with a U‑shank jigsaw who needs durable, fast-cut performance in wood. They offer solid line tracking, good chip evacuation, and notably better longevity than budget blades. If your work leans toward fine finishes or you own a T‑shank saw, look elsewhere; otherwise, this 5‑pack is a dependable staple for the jobsite and the shop.