DeWalt 3" 14 TPI U-shank thick metal-cutting cobalt steel jig saw blade

Cutting thicker metal with a jigsaw is always a compromise, but the DeWalt 14 TPI metal‑cutting jigsaw blade has become one of my go-to consumables when a bandsaw or cutoff wheel isn’t practical. It’s short, stout, and purpose-built: a 3-inch, U‑shank, bi-metal blade with a curved tooth geometry and deep gullets that actually make a difference in how it feels in the cut.

Build and design

This blade is bi‑metal, combining a cobalt-alloy tooth line with a high‑carbon steel backer. In hand, it has a bit more stiffness than many budget metal blades, and the tooth pattern is noticeably curved rather than uniform. That curved geometry isn’t just a marketing line; under load, the teeth “engage” more progressively, which reduces the grabby, start-stop behavior you can get when forcing a jigsaw through steel. Deep gullets help move chips out of the cut, and I found they also kept the cut line clearer than usual—handy when you’re following a scribe on dark plate.

At 3 inches long, this is a compact blade. The shorter length is actually an advantage in thicker metal because it limits flex and wander, but it does cap your practical thickness and reach. It uses a U‑shank, which brings me to a critical point about compatibility.

Compatibility and fit

If your jigsaw is U‑shank or universal‑shank compatible, this blade drops in without fuss. If your saw is T‑shank only (as many newer pro models are), this blade won’t fit. Some modern saws accept both styles, but not all. The U‑shank clamp on my older DeWalt and a well-worn Black & Decker held the blade securely, though you don’t get the quick-change convenience of T‑shank. Lock the shoe down tight and ensure your blade guide bearings are properly set; the blade’s stiffness pays off when the guidance is dialed in.

Cutting performance

I ran this blade through a mix of shop tasks:

• 1/8-inch (3 mm) mild steel flat bar: The blade tracked straight with a steady feed rate at low to mid SPM (I stayed around 800–1200 strokes/min). With orbital action off and a dab of cutting fluid, the cut was controlled and chatter-free. The curved tooth geometry seemed to reduce the initial “hook” at the start of cuts, especially when plunging into a starter hole.

• 3/16-inch angle iron: The blade slowed, as expected, but held its line with minimal deflection. The deep gullets moved chips out well enough that I didn’t have to constantly back out to clear the kerf. I noticed less blueing than with some comparable 14 TPI blades, suggesting the cobalt edge is doing its job.

• 1/4-inch aluminum plate: Not its primary mission, but it performed fine. Aluminum can load teeth quickly; the larger gullets here helped keep the kerf clean, and a little wax or fluid goes a long way.

• 16‑gauge 304 stainless sheet: The blade cut it, but the life penalty is noticeable—as it is with nearly every jigsaw blade in stainless. If stainless is a primary use case, plan on bringing multiple blades and use aggressive cooling.

Across these materials, the blade’s character is predictable and controlled. It’s not fast—14 TPI isn’t about speed—but it’s steady. The finish is typical of jigsaw cuts in metal: a slight burr that cleans up with a file or flap wheel. The cut face showed uniform striations with no tooth chipping or missing teeth after several passes in mild steel.

Heat management and durability

Any metal-cutting jigsaw blade will cook if you overspeed or push too hard. This one tolerated sustained cuts better than basic high‑carbon blades. The cobalt tooth line resists softening, so it held an edge over multiple cuts in 1/8-inch mild steel. In stainless, heat builds quickly; using cutting fluid and pausing to let the blade cool noticeably extends life. I didn’t encounter tooth fracture or lost set—just gradual dulling, which is what you want to see.

The short length helps durability too. Less length means less oscillation and less opportunity for the blade to whip and heat unevenly. I’d still avoid tight-radius turns in thick metal; this is a straight-line worker.

Accuracy and control

Jigsaws aren’t precision metal saws, but this blade tracks respectably when you set the saw up right. With the shoe firmly clamped, orbital off, and a slow feed, the blade produced near-plumb cuts in 3/16-inch steel with minimal wander. The short body and stiffer backer keep things from corkscrewing, though the trade-off is limited reach for deep or awkward cuts. If you’re trying to follow a tight template inside 1/8-inch plate, score the line first and let the blade ride the groove; the tooth geometry plays nicely with that technique.

Chip ejection and visibility

The deep gullets are genuinely helpful. Metal chips clear well, and I spent less time feathering the trigger to spit chips forward. When cutting overhead or vertically, chips still accumulate at the cut line (gravity wins), but I found fewer clogs and better visibility than with fine‑tooth blades lacking gullet volume.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

• Best for: 1/8 to 3/16-inch mild steel, small bracket mods, trimming angle, cutting access holes in plate from a drilled starter, and quick on-site fixes where dragging out a bandsaw isn’t worth it. It’s also competent in 1/4-inch aluminum.

• Acceptable but costly: Stainless sheet. It works, but it’ll cost you blade life.

• Not ideal for: Very thin sheet (go finer, 18–24 TPI to avoid snagging) and hardened steels. The 3-inch length also limits deep cuts—don’t expect to slice through structural members with comfort or accuracy.

Compared with similar options

Among 14 TPI metal jigsaw blades I’ve used, the standout differences here are the smoother start and reduced chatter under steady feed, which I attribute to the curved tooth geometry, and the chip evacuation from the deeper gullets. T‑shank blades from other brands may offer faster changes and broader saw compatibility, but if you’re in a U‑shank ecosystem, this DeWalt option feels more robust than bargain bi‑metal sets and holds up better than straight high‑carbon blades.

Value and pack size

It comes in a five‑pack, which is the right quantity for real metal work. You’ll use blades; that’s the nature of cutting steel with a jigsaw. Having spares on hand means you can swap as soon as you feel the feed rate drop rather than burning the blade to the nub and risking a crooked finish.

Tips for best results

• Turn orbital action off for metal.
• Run slower strokes per minute; don’t be afraid to back off the trigger.
• Use cutting fluid or wax, especially on stainless.
• Clamp the work and support near the cut; reduce vibration at all costs.
• Drill a starter hole for interior cuts to avoid aggressive plunges.
• Let the blade do the work—if you’re forcing it, you’re dulling it.

Bottom line

The DeWalt 14 TPI metal‑cutting jigsaw blade is a solid, predictable performer for thicker metal cuts in a compact form. Its curved tooth geometry and deep gullets translate into smoother engagement and better chip control than many generic options, and the bi‑metal construction holds an edge respectably in mild steel. The big caveats are compatibility—U‑shank only—and the inherent limitations of a 3-inch blade. If your saw accepts U‑shank blades and you need a dependable option for 1/8 to 3/16-inch steel, this five‑pack earns a spot in the drawer.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade for users with U‑shank or universal‑shank jigsaws who routinely tackle small to medium metal tasks in mild steel and aluminum. It’s durable for its class, cuts with control, and the short, stiff format helps keep lines straight. If your jigsaw is T‑shank only or you mostly cut thin sheet or hardened alloys, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is an easy choice to keep on hand.