DeWalt 4" 6 TPI U-shank HCS jig saw blade

Overview

I reached for the DW3705H blade when I needed to make fast openings and crosscuts in construction lumber and sheet goods—jobs where speed matters more than a pristine edge. This is a 4-inch, U‑shank, 6 TPI wood blade made of high‑carbon steel, sold in a pack of five. In the hands, it feels like a straightforward, purpose‑built cutter: coarse teeth, deeper gullets, and a geometry that favors chip evacuation and feed rate over finish. If you’re working with a compatible U‑shank jig saw and your priority is getting through 2x stock, fence boards, or OSB quickly, the DW3705H blade fits that brief.

Build and tooth geometry

The blade uses precision‑ground teeth rather than a stamped profile. On a coarse 6 TPI blade, that shows up less as mirror‑smooth edges and more as consistent tooth height and set, which helps reduce vibration and keeps the cut tracking straight. The deeper gullets are immediately noticeable—they create roomy pockets that carry sawdust out efficiently. In wet or resinous lumber, that extra clearance helps keep the blade from heating up and stalling.

Material-wise, it’s high‑carbon steel (HCS). That’s the right call for wood because it’s flexible and less brittle than HSS or carbide. The tradeoff is edge life—HCS dulls quicker, especially in abrasive sheet goods or hardwood, and it does not tolerate nails or screws. Expect more speed than longevity, which is typical for this class.

The 4-inch length is standard for general wood cutting. In practice, that gives you comfortable reach for 1‑1/2 inch stock with a bit of room to spare. You can get through thicker material, but blade deflection becomes more likely, especially with a coarse tooth count.

In the wood: speed and tracking

I put the DeWalt U‑shank wood blade to work in three typical scenarios:

• Crosscutting 2x SPF and pressure‑treated lumber: With orbital action maxed and the saw at full speed, the blade moved through 2x material quickly—on par with other 6 TPI HCS blades. It doesn’t bog down unless you throttle back on the orbital setting. The gullets do their job; chips clear, and heat stays manageable.

• Rough openings in OSB and subfloor: Cutting window and vent openings goes smoothly. Plunge cuts are controllable as long as you keep the shoe planted and let the teeth bite in gradually. In OSB, the blade stays fast, but edge fuzz is inevitable at 6 TPI.

• Exterior cedar and fence pickets: Very fast cutting with noticeable tear‑out on the exit side. For fence work, the speed is great; for visible faces, I flipped the board or taped the finished side to minimize splintering.

Tracking is respectable for a coarse blade. If I push too hard in thicker stock, I can induce a bit of deflection, but staying patient and letting the teeth work keeps the kerf straight. For tight curves, this isn’t the blade—6 TPI and a standard width make it happiest on gentle arcs and straight lines. I reserve scroll work for narrower, higher‑TPI blades.

Cut quality and control

You don’t pick a 6 TPI blade for finish, and the DW3705H is no exception. In softwood, the top edge is reasonably clean with the orbital action reduced and feed moderated. In plywood and MDF, faces chip easily unless you:

• Dial down orbital action
• Back the speed off slightly
• Cut with the finished face down (if your saw cuts on the upstroke)
• Use a zero‑clearance shoe or masking tape over the cut line

Follow those steps and you can get passable edges on utility projects. If you need a cabinet‑grade cut, choose a 10–20 TPI wood blade instead.

Vibration is modest; the precision‑ground teeth likely help by keeping the bite consistent. Noise is typical for a coarse blade—more of a ripping sound than a buzz. Plunge cuts feel controlled if you rock the saw forward and introduce the teeth gradually rather than dropping straight in.

Durability and heat

HCS blades live and die by heat and contamination. On untreated SPF, I got multiple door openings and a stack of crosscuts before noticing a slowdown. In pressure‑treated lumber and OSB, the edge goes off quicker. Once dull, the blade rubs, heats up, and starts to wander. Let it cool between long cuts and avoid forcing it; both steps extend life noticeably.

Hit a screw or hidden nail and the teeth roll over immediately—that’s not a fault of this blade so much as a reality of HCS. If you expect metal surprises, go with a bi‑metal demolition blade. For clean wood, the DW3705H holds its own within the expected lifespan for a coarse HCS profile, and the five‑pack makes swapping easy when the edge falls off.

Compatibility and setup

This is a U‑shank blade. Many older and some budget jig saws accept U‑shank; many modern pro saws are T‑shank only. Check your clamp before you buy. On a screw‑clamp style holder, the blade seats securely and doesn’t slip. Blade changes are slower than tool‑free T‑shank systems, but not a dealbreaker if you’re staying within one task for a while.

If your saw accepts both shanks, the DW3705H performs just like a comparable T‑shank wood blade in the cut. The shank type doesn’t change cutting behavior—it’s purely about fit and changeover convenience.

Practical tips

• Use high orbital action and high speed for fast straight cuts in 2x lumber; reduce both for plywood, MDF, and curves.
• Keep the shoe fully supported—overhanging cuts increase chatter and deflection.
• Cut with the finished face down (on up‑cutting saws) to reduce tear‑out, or add masking tape for fragile veneers.
• Let the blade do the work. If you feel heat building or smell resin, slow your feed or pause to cool.
• Scan reclaimed lumber with a magnet to avoid nails; this blade won’t forgive metal.
• For curves tighter than a dinner plate, switch to a narrower, higher‑TPI blade.

Value and alternatives

As a pack of five, the DW3705H blade represents practical value for rough carpentry and jobsite tasks where blades are consumables. You pay for speed and convenience, not longevity. If you frequently cut abrasive sheet goods, step up to a bi‑metal or carbide‑grit option for longer life. If you need cleaner edges, grab a 10–12 TPI wood blade. And if your saw is T‑shank only, the obvious alternative is DeWalt’s comparable T‑shank coarse wood blade.

Who it’s for

• Framing and rough carpentry where you’re cutting openings in sheathing or trimming 2x stock
• DIYers with U‑shank jig saws who need fast cuts and can sand or hide edges
• Fence, deck, and pallet projects where speed beats finish

Who should look elsewhere:

• Cabinet and trim work requiring clean, splinter‑free edges
• Users with T‑shank‑only saws
• Work around nails, screws, or embedded grit (choose bi‑metal or carbide)

Recommendation

I recommend the DW3705H blade if you have a compatible U‑shank jig saw and your workload leans toward fast, rough cuts in wood. It’s quick in 2x stock, clears chips well thanks to the deep gullets, and tracks straight when you let it set the pace. You won’t get finish‑grade edges, and the HCS teeth won’t survive abuse or hidden metal, but that’s expected for this category. As a five‑pack, it’s an economical, jobsite‑ready choice for framing, sheathing, and utility cuts. If you need cleaner cuts, longer life in abrasive materials, or you’re running a T‑shank‑only saw, pick a finer‑tooth or bi‑metal T‑shank option instead. For the right user and task, this DeWalt U‑shank wood blade earns its keep.