REHOUPTY Pool Paint Ocean Blue 211oz, Durability Water-Based Acrylic Resin Concrete Pool Paint, Quick-drying Waterproof Coating for Underground Aboveground Cement Pond, Water Parks, Fiberglass Stock Tank 1 Gal

Why I reached for this paint

My small concrete plunge pool and an older fiberglass stock tank needed a refresh before summer. Both were sound—but chalky, faded, and starting to stain. I wanted a water-based coating I could apply with standard tools, that would tolerate long-term immersion without peeling, and give me a clean, bright blue. On paper, the REHOUPTY pool paint checked all those boxes, so I devoted a weekend to putting it to work.

Surface prep: the make-or-break step

Acrylic pool coatings will only perform as well as the surface beneath them. I spent a full day on prep:

• Drained and pressure-washed to remove chalk, scale, and loose paint.
• Degreased with TSP substitute on handprints and sunscreen sheen near the waterline.
• Spot-repaired hairline cracks with a cementitious patch (paint is not a structural fix).
• Etched a few troweled-smooth areas to restore profile, then neutralized and rinsed.
• Let everything dry completely; a moisture meter helps, but at minimum give it good weather and time.

For the fiberglass stock tank, I scuff-sanded to a dull finish and wiped with denatured alcohol. On an exposed metal drain ring in the pool, I used a rust-inhibiting primer—this paint will bond to metal, but I prefer a dedicated metal primer under immersion.

Application: thick, fast, and forgiving (mostly)

This product is thick—closer to a heavy-bodied acrylic than a typical house paint. I had the best results with:

• Roller: 3/8-inch nap on the smooth pool interior, 1/2-inch on rougher steps.
• Brush: a good nylon/poly blend for cut-ins and around returns.
• Mixing: slow mechanical mixing for a few minutes; the pigment is dense and settling at the bottom is real.

I did thin the first coat by roughly 5% with clean water on a hot, breezy day. That helped leveling on the verticals without compromising coverage. I wouldn’t go above 10%—you lose body and start to see unevenness.

A sprayer is not the right tool here. Even with thinning, the viscosity and solids load are high, and you’ll spend more time clearing clogs than painting. Rollers are faster, cleaner, and deliver a consistent film.

One packaging note: the product I received came in a lined pail (a heavy plastic bag inside a can). It minimizes skinning and shipping mess, but it does make dipping a roller awkward unless you decant into a tray. Plan for that.

Coverage and number of coats

On my 9-by-12-foot pool (approx. 276 square feet of interior surface including walls), I averaged:

• First coat on cured, etched concrete: roughly 180–220 square feet per gallon.
• Second coat: closer to 240–260 square feet per gallon once the surface was sealed.
• Fiberglass stock tank: near the higher end, as it’s less porous.

REHOUPTY cites a single-coat coverage number, but in practice I needed two coats on both concrete and fiberglass for opacity and uniform color. A third coat only made sense on a few high-traffic steps. If you’re planning a full interior, don’t underestimate quantity—most DIYers will use more than the optimistic coverage estimates, especially on the first pass.

Drying and cure

This is where the paint shines. In 75–80°F, low-humidity weather:

• Touch dry: about 1.5–2 hours.
• Recoat window: I waited 6 hours; no lifting or reactivation.
• Fill time: I gave it 5 warm days to cure before refilling. Cooler temps or high humidity will extend that.

There was minimal odor, and cleanup with water was simple as long as I didn’t let the brushes sit too long. Once it sets, it’s stubborn on skin and tools—gloves and immediate cleanup are your friends.

In the water: adhesion and waterproofing

After the cure, I refilled and brought the pool up to balanced chemistry. The coating felt tenacious, with no soft spots, blistering, or early chalking. Over several weeks of normal use and a few vacuum sessions, the film resisted abrasion better than I expected from a water-based acrylic. On the fiberglass tank, which sees standing water 24/7 and the occasional bump from a bucket, I’ve seen no scuff-through.

The paint won’t bridge serious structural cracks or stop active leaks, but it does seal micro-porosity and hairline crazing. If your shell is sound, this coating provides a robust, water-tight finish.

Finish and color

“Ocean Blue” reads as a saturated, cheerful medium blue—bright enough to make water pop without looking cartoonish. Two coats yielded an even, matte-to-low-satin finish. On the first coat, I did get some roller texture; the second pass evened it out. If you’re after a glass-smooth look, slow rolling and consistent pressure help. The color has held up so far in full sun, and routine brushing hasn’t burnished it. I’ll reserve judgment on multi-season fade resistance, but early indications are good.

A quick note for decks and steps: wet acrylic can be slippery. If you’re coating walking surfaces, consider adding a fine non-slip aggregate to the second coat.

Where it fits best

• Concrete or plaster pool interiors that are sound but tired.
• Fiberglass features and stock tanks that need a uniform, water-tight film.
• Fountains and water features where easy cleanup and a bold blue line are desired.
• DIY projects where water-based application and cleanup matter.

I’d think twice for huge commercial vessels where spray application and maximal coverage per gallon are paramount, or for projects that require ultra-smooth, high-build finishes in one pass.

Caveats and quirks

• Viscosity: It’s thick. Great for build and seepage control; less great for spraying or ultra-smooth finishes without care.
• Coverage vs. expectations: Plan on two coats and conservative coverage, particularly on porous concrete.
• Packaging: The liner bag helps with shipping and storage, but decanting is almost required.
• Open-can life: Once you open it, use it. This isn’t something I’d expect to store for months after breaking the seal.
• Not a repair in a can: Fix structural issues before you paint.

Tips for best results

• Do the prep. Clean, etch or profile smooth areas, and let the substrate dry fully.
• Mix thoroughly. Pigment is heavy; scrape the bottom and sides of the pail as you go.
• Test thinning. Up to 5–10% water can improve flow in hot weather; avoid over-thinning.
• Watch the weather. Aim for warm, dry conditions and shade when possible; avoid painting hot surfaces in direct sun.
• Use fresh roller covers. A 3/8-inch nap was the sweet spot on smooth interiors.
• Respect cure time. Don’t rush filling or shocking—let it harden.

Value

Price-wise, this sits competitively with other water-based pool coatings. Because real-world coverage is conservative and two coats are standard, the value calculus depends on your surface area. That said, the easy cleanup, quick recoat, and strong adhesion to both concrete and fiberglass save time and headaches—worth money in my book.

Recommendation

I recommend the REHOUPTY pool paint to DIYers and facility managers who want a water-based, quick-drying coating with strong adhesion and a clean, saturated blue. It’s particularly well-suited to sound concrete and fiberglass where you can invest in prep and plan for two coats. Expect a thick product, plan your quantities conservatively, and avoid spray equipment. If you need a one-coat solution, ultra-high coverage, or a product that doubles as a structural repair, this isn’t it. For most refurbishment projects, though, it delivers a durable, attractive finish with minimal fuss—and that makes it an easy choice for my toolkit.