ArmorPoxy Pool Paint 2-Part Epoxy Coating for Concrete, Gunite, Fiberglass, Plaster Pools - Saltwater & Fresh Water Compatible - White

Why I chose this coating

My plaster pool was at the point where weekly scrubbing no longer improved the chalky, tired surface. I wanted a finish that would hold up to aggressive sanitizing, midday sun, and the occasional rough use from a robotic cleaner. I opted for ArmorPoxy’s epoxy pool coating in white because it promises professional-grade durability across concrete, gunite, plaster, and fiberglass. The ability to use it in both saltwater and freshwater systems sealed the choice, since I manage a salt system and occasionally shock hard.

What you’re working with

This is a two-part epoxy coating that goes down with standard rollers and brushes. It’s supplied in white, which is classic, bright, and pool-appropriate, though it does limit design choices. The chemistry is built for UV, chemical, and abrasion resistance, and the manufacturer calls for two coats with a meaningful cure window: 5–7 days before filling outdoor pools, 10–14 days for indoor. That curing discipline matters; it’s part of what distinguishes a true epoxy finish from quick-dry paint.

Right out of the containers, both parts are clearly labeled, and the epoxy is fairly viscous—thick enough to build film, but workable with a 3/8-inch nap roller on smooth plaster. Odor is noticeable but manageable outdoors; if you’re indoors or working a spa area with limited airflow, you absolutely need active ventilation and a proper respirator.

Surface prep makes or breaks the job

Epoxy is unforgiving of shortcuts. I pressure-washed, spot-etched stubborn mineral deposits, neutralized, and rinsed to remove residue. After drying thoroughly, I repaired cracks and voids and did a final vacuum to capture dust. On fiberglass steps, I scuffed the gelcoat and wiped with a compatible solvent to promote adhesion. The coating will stick to concrete, gunite, plaster, and fiberglass, but only if you provide a clean, sound, matte surface.

If you’re resurfacing a previously coated pool, be prepared to remove failing layers. Epoxy will only be as strong as what’s under it. Plan your timeline around a dry spell; any moisture in the substrate will show up later as blisters.

Mixing and application

I mixed small batches so I could maintain a wet edge. Using a paddle on a low-speed drill ensured a uniform mix without whipping air into the material. The pot life felt reasonable for an outdoor, mild day—long enough to roll a wall and floor section, not so long that I worried about solvent entrapment.

Application is straightforward:
- Cut in transitions, returns, and corners with a quality brush.
- Roll broad areas with a lint-free, medium-nap roller.
- Back-roll to even out film build and catch sags before they develop.

The first coat soaked in slightly on the plaster, which is normal. The second coat built the gloss and created a seamless film. I applied the second coat the next day while the first was still within its recoat window, which helped achieve chemical bonding between layers. If you’re working in direct sun, rig shade where possible; keeping the surface cool gives you more working time and a smoother finish.

Coverage and film build

Coverage depends on substrate porosity and texture. On smooth, well-prepped plaster I got efficient coverage; on the rougher fiberglass step inserts it was slightly lower. Expect to use more material than you would for a cosmetic paint job—the whole point is building a protective epoxy film. If you’re coating a mid-sized pool, plan for more than one “small” kit and budget accordingly.

The finish levels well, leaving a clean, bright white surface that reads professional rather than DIY. It’s glossy enough to pop, but not mirror-like to the point of highlighting minor substrate imperfections.

Cure and return to service

The cure schedule is not a suggestion. I left the pool dry for a full week outdoors, then brought the water up gradually. For indoor spas, give yourself the longer 10–14 day window and ventilate during and after application. Rushing this step is where most epoxy failures come from.

Once cured, the coating shrugged off startup chemistry. Balancing a salt system and hitting target alkalinity and calcium levels didn’t affect the finish. I waited to crank up the robotic cleaner for a few days; the surface handled the tracks without scuffing.

Performance after a season

Through a full swim season, the coating held its gloss noticeably well. UV exposure didn’t yellow the white, and there’s been no chalky residue rubbing off on hands or floats. More telling, the surface resisted staining from leaves and occasional metal contamination from fill water—light marks lifted with a gentle brush and standard pool chemistry adjustments. Abrasion from vacuuming and foot traffic on the steps hasn’t broken the film.

On fiberglass steps and a small fiberglass sun shelf, adhesion has been solid. No flaking at edges or around returns, which is often where adhesion fails if surface prep was marginal.

Strengths

• Durable, commercial-grade film: The epoxy backbone is evident in how it resists UV, sanitizers, and abrasion.
• Versatility across substrates: On plaster, gunite, concrete, and fiberglass, adhesion was confident when prep was done properly.
• Application with familiar tools: Brushes and rollers are all you need; no specialized spray rigs required.
• True two-coat system: The second coat meaningfully increases film thickness and uniformity.
• Suitable for salt and fresh water: No special caveats for salt systems beyond basic water balance.

Trade-offs and limitations

• White only: If you’re aiming for a color palette beyond classic white, you won’t find it here.
• Prep is critical and time-consuming: Skimping here is a recipe for failure, and you’ll need dry weather and patience.
• Cure time: A week without water outdoors (longer indoors) can disrupt facility schedules; this is not a weekend turnaround job.
• Slipperiness: Like most smooth epoxies, wet steps can be slick. I added a non-slip additive to the second coat on treads and the tanning ledge; consider doing the same.
• Kit sizing: The “small” size means larger pools will require multiple kits. Plan procurement so you can maintain your recoat window.

Tips from my application

• Schedule for stable weather and shade when possible; heat shortens working time.
• Mix in small batches and keep a helper to reload trays so you maintain a wet edge.
• Sweep, vacuum, and tack clean between prep steps; dust under epoxy becomes a permanent defect.
• Add a fine non-slip aggregate to the second coat on steps and ledges for safety.
• Respect the cure window. Don’t fill early, and don’t shock hard until the coating has fully cured.

Who it’s for

• Pool builders and refinishers who want a durable, professional finish with predictable results.
• Facility managers and homeowners prepared to invest in thorough prep and a proper cure window to gain multi-season durability.
• Commercial properties where downtime can be planned and long-term maintenance cost is a priority.

Who it’s not ideal for:
- Anyone needing same-weekend turnaround.
- Projects that require custom colors or decorative effects.
- Surfaces with ongoing moisture intrusion that cannot be mitigated.

Final recommendation

I recommend ArmorPoxy’s epoxy pool coating for anyone seeking a robust, long-lasting refinish on concrete, gunite, plaster, or fiberglass. In my use, it delivered the chemical, UV, and abrasion resistance you expect from a professional-grade epoxy, went down with standard tools, and produced a clean, bright white finish that has stayed that way through a season of saltwater use. The trade-offs are the predictable ones: careful prep, strict cure times, and a single color option. If you can accommodate those, the coating offers excellent value by reducing repaint frequency and keeping maintenance straightforward. If you need a quick turnaround or a broader color palette, look elsewhere; otherwise, this is a dependable, workmanlike solution that earns its keep.