Kelley Technical Coatings Olympic Pool Paint - Zeron - Blue Mist - 1 Gallon - two-part epoxy swimming pool paint - one-coat for plaster, fiberglass, steel and aluminum pools.

Why I reached for Zeron Blue Mist

My pool needed more than a cosmetic refresh—it needed a surface that could handle seasonal swings, frequent use, and the occasional lapse in perfect water chemistry. I chose Zeron Blue Mist, a two-part epoxy pool paint kit, to tackle a tired plaster interior and faded fiberglass steps. It’s positioned as a one-coat solution for plaster, fiberglass, steel, and aluminum, and that promise—paired with epoxy’s reputation for durability—made it appealing for a DIY refinish with professional-level results.

What you’re getting

Zeron Blue Mist arrives as a matched kit: a 1-gallon base and a 1-quart catalyst designed to be combined before application. The format is straightforward—blend thoroughly, roll it on, and expect a hard, chemical-resistant film when it cures. The color is a light, inviting blue that brightens water without skewing neon or overly bold. As with any pigmented coating, don’t trust a phone screen to represent color; it reads a touch softer in person and looks brighter once the pool is filled.

The manufacturer cites roughly 125–150 square feet of coverage per gallon. In practice, I’d plan toward the low end of that range and have a buffer. Texture, porosity, and the aggressiveness of your surface prep make a big difference. On smoother fiberglass and well-prepped plaster, I achieved uniform hide in one coat, but verticals and edges always seem to drink more paint than you expect.

Prep is where this product wins or loses

Epoxy is unforgiving of shortcuts. My steps and bench sections needed minor crack repair, so I used an epoxy filler, sanded flush, and cleaned thoroughly. Across the plaster, I degreased, etched selectively where necessary, then rinsed and allowed the shell to dry completely. If there’s moisture in the substrate, epoxy will tell you—usually with poor adhesion or a patchy cure—so don’t rush the dry-down. A simple taped plastic test overnight can catch hidden damp spots.

Before opening the cans, I masked the waterline tile and fittings, staged solvent-resistant rollers (3/8" to 1/2" nap), a few backup roller frames, a quality brush for cut-ins, and a mixing paddle for the drill. Epoxy is tough on rollers; have spares ready.

Mixing and application: small batches, steady pace

The kit is designed to be mixed as a set, but you can blend partial batches as long as you keep the base-to-catalyst ratio consistent and measure accurately. I prefer mixing smaller amounts to keep within pot life, especially in warm weather. A mechanical paddle helps you incorporate the two parts completely; scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing bucket to avoid unmixed streaks. Once catalyzed, the clock is ticking—viscosity climbs and your margin for error shrinks as it thickens.

Application is refreshingly drama-free for an epoxy. The product is on the thicker side, which translates to fewer drips and nice build on verticals. I cut in fittings and corners with a brush, then worked in manageable sections with a roller, maintaining a wet edge and “back-rolling” to even out texture. On steps and tight areas, a 4-inch roller is easier to control and helps avoid lap marks. The coating levels well and leaves a smooth, satin-gloss film that feels robust underfoot.

Ventilation matters. Solvent fumes pool low in a deep shell, so I set up fans, wore an organic vapor respirator, and took breaks. It’s not the time for paper masks.

Dry-to-touch came within a few hours in moderate temperatures. Full chemical cure takes longer; always follow the manufacturer’s recoat and fill guidance. Epoxies generally need days—not hours—before you bring water back in, especially in cool or humid conditions.

Finish and color in the water

Once cured, the surface is dense and slick, with just enough profile from the roller to keep it from looking glassy. The Blue Mist tone is a clean, spa-like light blue that makes older pools look fresher without shouting for attention. In direct sun, it brightens the water; in shade, it reads calm and neutral. It also hides minor hairline imperfections better than a very light or very dark color would, which is useful on older plaster.

Durability and seasonal performance

Across a season of use, the coating has held up well against balanced pool chemistry, brushing, and typical traffic on steps and benches. Some gradual lightening in high-UV areas is normal for epoxy, and what I saw was within expectations—nothing chalky or patchy. Mechanical abrasion (dragging a ladder foot or tossing in a cleaner roughly) will scuff any coating, epoxy included, but Zeron handled incidental contact without flaking.

Chemicals matter here. Stick with quality sanitizers and avoid tossing granulars directly on the surface—pre-dissolve when appropriate and keep pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness in range. Low-grade products with fillers can leave residues that haze even a good coating. Good water keeps good finishes looking good.

The one-coat claim—realistic?

On properly prepared plaster and fiberglass, I achieved full coverage and color uniformity with one coat. That said, a second pass on high-wear zones (steps, tanning ledges, the shallow-end slope) is a smart bit of insurance if you have material left. If you’re switching from a very dark previous color or dealing with patchy substrates, plan for touch-ups or a second coat to guarantee uniformity.

Practical tips from the job site

• Buy enough from the start. If you’re close to the coverage math, get an extra kit. Batch consistency helps avoid subtle shade shifts if you have to overlap areas painted on different days.
• Work within the weather window. Aim for mild temperatures, low humidity, and a clean, dust-free shell. Don’t paint if rain is anywhere near the forecast during the cure window.
• Mix accurately and thoroughly. Use marked measuring buckets for partials, mechanical mixing, and scrape the bucket.
• Keep moving. Epoxy’s pot life shortens in heat. Smaller mixes reduce waste and help you maintain a wet edge.
• Upgrade your rollers. Solvent-resistant cores and a couple of spares will save you mid-project frustration.
• Respect curing. It may be dry to the touch quickly, but water can wait. A patient cure pays you back in longevity.

Coverage and value

Real-world coverage landed near the low end of the stated range for me, which is normal on older plaster with varied porosity. The product’s thicker body helps with build and hiding but also means you shouldn’t count on the highest coverage numbers. Still, compared to hiring a resurfacing crew, a careful DIY job with Zeron Blue Mist represents strong value. It’s not cheap paint; it’s a high-solids epoxy designed to last, and the labor savings of a legitimate one-coat system are significant.

What could be better

• Pot life is finite and shortens quickly in warm conditions. That’s the nature of epoxies, but it makes workflow planning essential.
• Fumes are strong. Proper PPE and ventilation are non-negotiable—something to consider if your site makes airflow difficult.
• Color matching across multiple kits can vary slightly. Buying all you need up front helps, especially for large projects.

Who it’s for

• Great for: Owners with aging plaster or fiberglass who want a durable, clean look and are comfortable with thorough prep and two-part mixing. Pros who need a reliable one-coat system will appreciate the build and leveling.
• Less ideal for: Anyone seeking a quick weekend refresh with same-day refill. If you can’t ventilate adequately or aren’t up for meticulous surface prep, this isn’t the right type of coating.

Recommendation

I recommend Zeron Blue Mist for DIYers and pros who want a tough, attractive epoxy finish and are prepared to give the project the prep, mixing accuracy, and cure time it demands. It rolls on thicker than typical coatings, levels into a smooth, resilient film, and achieves legitimate one-coat coverage on sound, properly prepared surfaces. Plan conservatively on coverage, buy enough in a single purchase to keep color consistent, ventilate well, and respect the cure window. Do that, and you’ll get a clean, long-wearing result that makes an older pool look new again.