Asjeumt 136 Pieces All Thread Lamp Pipe Lamp Rod Repair Hardware Parts Kit Includes Lamp Nipples, Coupler Pipes Connectors, Lock Nuts, Plastic Stopper and Washers, for Assembly DIY Making Lamps

Why I reached for this kit

A thrift-store table lamp with a wobbly column and a vintage chandelier with a too-short center rod landed on my bench the same week. Both needed standard 3/8-27 lamp hardware (often called 1/8-IP in lamp-speak), a handful of washers, and a coupler or two. Rather than make multiple runs to the parts aisle for bubble-packed pieces, I tried the Asjeumt lamp repair kit. Over several projects, it’s become a reliable, grab-and-go assortment that solves most mechanical lamp problems without drama.

What’s in the kit—and how it’s organized

You get 136 pieces centered around twelve hollow, fully threaded 3/8-27 steel nipples in six lengths. The rest of the hardware rounds out the usual lamp stack:

• 4 couplers (3/8-27 female both ends) for extending rods
• 24 lock nuts
• 24 flat washers
• 24 tooth (lock) washers
• 24 rubber washers
• 24 plastic stoppers/caps

Everything arrives in labeled cellophane bags. There’s no organizer box, so plan on recycling a small tackle box or parts bin. It’s a small thing, but being able to glance at compartments and pull the right hardware speeds up workflow considerably.

Build quality and finish

The rods are plated steel rather than solid brass. That’s a practical choice for strength and cost, and the corrosion resistance has been solid in normal indoor use. The overall finish reads as bronze, but I treat it as working hardware, not a decorative surface—most of it ends up hidden inside bodies, under bases, or behind canopies. If you need visible, perfectly color-matched bronze hardware on a showpiece lamp, you’ll likely source those visible bits separately. For everything structural and concealed, this kit gets the job done.

Thread quality is consistently good: clean 3/8-27 threads without crushed starts or glaring burrs. Nuts run on smoothly, couplers seat squarely, and I didn’t encounter misthreaded parts. The steel has enough rigidity that long runs don’t flex under modest load once locked down with washers and nuts.

Setup and use in real projects

• Stabilizing a wobbly table lamp: The existing center rod was slightly short, leaving the stacked components loose. I swapped in a longer nipple, used the tooth washer under the base nut to bite into the metal base, added a rubber washer between the base and a glass spacer for isolation, and finished with a lock nut to set preload. The wobbles disappeared. The hollow rod made threading a new cord painless, and the plastic stopper worked as a clean pass-through where the cord exits.

• Extending a chandelier center column: The canopy needed an extra half inch of thread to clear a ceiling medallion. I paired a medium-length nipple with a coupler to extend the existing rod, then snugged everything with lock nuts. The coupler’s threads are deep and well cut, and once tightened, the joint felt like a single piece.

• Building a custom driftwood lamp: I drilled a straight channel, cut one of the nipples to length with a hacksaw, cleaned the cut with a file, and used flat and tooth washers to capture the irregular surface. Because these rods are fully threaded, there’s no need to rethread after cutting—just chamfer the edge so nuts start cleanly. For strain relief, I paired the plastic stopper with a proper cord grip at the socket (not included in the kit), which is important for safety.

Across these tasks, the parts mated with standard US lamp sockets, canopies, and hickeys that use 3/8-27 (1/8-IP) threads. The kit doesn’t include sockets, harps, or cord sets—you’re covering the structural side here.

Fit and compatibility

• Thread standard: 3/8-27 (1/8-IP), the most common thread for central lamp pipe and many lamp fittings in North America.
• Interoperability: Compatible with typical hickeys, cluster bodies, canopies, and socket shells using 1/8-IP threads. If you need finial threads (often 1/4-27) or step-up/step-down bushings, you’ll source those separately.
• Washers: The mix of flat, tooth, and rubber washers covers most stacking scenarios—locking against metal bases, cushioning glass or ceramic, and providing a bit of electrical isolation.

Working with the rods

Cutting and dressing: Because the nipples are fully threaded, you can cut to any custom length and still have usable threads. Score with a hacksaw or cut-off wheel, then:

• Deburr and lightly chamfer the cut end with a file.
• Run a nut on and off to chase the threads if needed.
• Vacuum or blow out the burrs so they don’t nick cord insulation.

Tightening: While you can finger-tighten to test-fit, you’ll get better results with two small wrenches—one to hold position at the bottom, one to snug the top—so you’re not spinning against cord twists. The tooth washers do a good job preventing rotation once set.

What I liked

• Coverage of the essentials: Between six rod lengths, couplers, and a generous washer/nut assortment, I haven’t had to halt a project for a missing mechanical piece.
• Clean, consistent threads: No cross-thread fights or sloppy fits; parts seat straight and stay put.
• Hollow design that actually helps: Threading lamp cord is straightforward, even through long runs and gentle bends.
• Solid value proposition: If you occasionally repair lamps or build them, buying these parts piecemeal adds up fast. One kit keeps you moving.

Where it falls short

• No organizer: The bagged presentation works, but a simple divided box would make this an even better shop companion. I ended up supplying my own.
• Not decorative-grade finish: The bronze look is fine for hidden hardware. For visible elements on high-end pieces, you’ll want matching decorative components.
• Single thread standard: It’s the right one for most jobs, but there are no reducers, enlargers, or finial adapters. Keep a few bushings and a 1/4-27 adapter in your toolbox if you work on a wide range of lamps.
• “Tool-free” expectation: Realistically, keep a couple of wrenches, a file, and a cutter handy. You can assemble finger-tight, but a proper snug makes the difference between “good” and “done.”

Safety and best practices

• Always unplug and discharge before disassembly; if the lamp is metal, ensure proper grounding through the rod stack.
• Use rubber washers to isolate glass and prevent chafing.
• Include a strain relief at the socket or exit point—plastic stoppers help, but a cord grip is better.
• Don’t overtighten against fragile materials; the tooth washer goes on the metal side, rubber on the delicate side.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and tinkerers who build lamps from found objects or refurbish vintage pieces.
• Electricians and handyman services who want a compact, go-to set for routine lamp repairs.
• Anyone tired of buying small hardware in overpriced, mismatched packs for one-off fixes.

Value and alternatives

You could assemble a similar assortment by buying individual packs of nipples, nuts, washers, and couplers. In practice, that route costs more and tends to leave you short of the one length or washer you need mid-project. The Asjeumt kit hits a sweet spot: broad coverage, decent materials, and consistent threading. If you primarily work with visible, high-finish hardware or coastal installs where corrosion is a prime concern, a brass-focused kit might be worth the premium. For general indoor use, this set is the better value.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Asjeumt lamp repair kit. It’s a well-chosen, dependable assortment of the hardware I reach for most often when repairing or building lamps. The rods are strong, the threads are consistent, and the included washers and couplers cover the majority of stacking and extension scenarios. While I’d love an organizer box and a few adapters in the mix, those are easy adds. For anyone who wants to keep lamp projects moving without multiple trips for small parts, this kit earns a permanent spot on the shelf.