QEDT 2 Pack Cabinet Latch Double Roller Catch for Cupboard Closet Cabinet Door Latches and Catches, Bronze

Why I tried this latch

A cabinet door that refuses to stay shut is a small annoyance that adds up. I’ve restored a handful of older cupboards and wardrobes, and the fix is often as simple as replacing a tired catch. I picked up the QEDT roller catch two-pack because I wanted a traditional mechanical latch with a positive “click,” a finish that blends with older hardware, and a quick installation that doesn’t require exotic tools. After installing both units across a bathroom cabinet and an antique sideboard, here’s how they performed.

What’s in the package

• Two double-roller catches with matching strike plates
• A small bag of mounting screws
• Warm bronze/copper-toned finish across all hardware

It’s a straightforward kit designed for common cabinet doors: inset or overlay, face-frame or frameless. There’s no template included, but that’s typical for this style.

Build quality and finish

The catch bodies are stamped steel with a copper/bronze finish. The finish isn’t high-polish; it lands in a soft, aged tone that pairs nicely with oil-rubbed or antique bronze knobs and hinges. The rollers are spring-loaded and feel balanced—not overly stiff, but firm enough to hold a door shut. The strike plates are tidy and burr-free.

Out of the box, the construction feels solid for the application. These are not architectural-grade pieces meant for heavy doors or exterior use, but for kitchen, bath, and furniture doors, the material and build are appropriate. Over several weeks of use, I saw no flaking of the finish and no change in spring tension.

Installation: quick, but mind alignment

I installed the catch body on the cabinet frame and the strike plate on the door. Here’s the approach that consistently yields a quiet, positive close:

1. Mark centerline: Close the door and mark a centerline across the frame where you want the catch to sit. Keep it clear of hinges for balance and to avoid racking.
2. Mount the catch body: Hold the catch so the rollers are centered on your line. Use an awl to start the holes and drill pilot holes. I used a 1/16-inch bit for the provided screws and drove them by hand to avoid stripping.
3. Position the strike: With the door closed, place a piece of masking tape on the inside of the door where the strike will sit. A small dab of lipstick or chalk on the roller tips helps transfer an exact mark to the tape when you close the door gently.
4. Mount the strike plate: Align it so the “loop” will enter between the rollers. Again, pilot holes and a hand driver are your friend.
5. Fine tune: If the hold is too tight or too loose, adjust by shifting the strike plate slightly. A nudge of the strike deeper into the cabinet increases holding force; backing it off reduces it. The slots on the catch help with minor adjustments.

Important note on fit: The mounting tabs on the catch body sit a bit back from the roller tips, like most traditional designs. If you’re mounting on a thin face frame with limited edge distance, confirm you’ve got enough wood to bite into. On a 3/4-inch frame, I was fine, but I wouldn’t push the screws right to the edge.

Total time per door was about 10–15 minutes, including setup and adjustment.

Performance in daily use

The QEDT catch provides a clean, confident snap when the door meets the frame. That click is the main reason I prefer mechanical rollers to magnets; there’s tactile confirmation that the door is latched. On a bathroom vanity, the latch kept a slightly warped door uniformly shut—no more creeping open. On the sideboard, the bronze tone blended with existing hardware and eliminated the habit of adding felt pads or bumpers just to keep things closed.

Hold strength feels right for typical cabinet doors: strong enough to resist accidental bumps yet easy to open with a normal pull. There’s no rattle, and the double rollers do a good job of compensating for a millimeter or two of misalignment. Noise is minimal—just a soft roll and click.

Fit and compatibility notes

• Door styles: Works with both inset and overlay doors. For inset, mind your reveals; the strike loop needs a clean path between the rollers without scraping the frame.
• Face-frame vs. frameless: No issues on either, though the screw tab setback is something to check on narrow face frames.
• Clearances: If you’re replacing an existing roller catch, the footprint is familiar, and in one case I was able to reuse the old screw positions on the strike side.
• Hinges: Pairing with self-closing hinges is redundant. If your hinges already pull the door shut, you might not need a catch. For standard butt or non-self-closing hinges, this latch is ideal.
• Weight: Not for heavy pantry or utility doors. It’s designed for light to medium cabinet doors.

Durability and maintenance

After repeated cycles, the springs still feel consistent. Stamped steel holds up well indoors, and the bronze finish has resisted fingernail scuffs so far. As with any roller catch, the strike loop is the wear point; a little polish line will develop where the rollers contact. That’s normal and purely cosmetic.

Maintenance tips:
- If the action gets squeaky, a tiny dab of dry lube on the rollers (not oil) keeps dust from collecting.
- Check screws after a couple of weeks; wood fibers compress and may benefit from a quarter turn.

Where it shines

• Quick, forgiving installation
• Positive, mechanical detent that keeps older or slightly warped doors shut
• Bronze finish that matches traditional and vintage hardware nicely
• Double-roller design that tolerates minor misalignment and door movement
• Good value for refreshing multiple cabinets with a uniform look

What could be better

• Included screws: The screws are serviceable but soft. On one install, a head wanted to cam out even with a proper pilot and hand torque. If you’re working in hardwood or old, dry face frames, I recommend supplying your own #6 wood screws (1/2-inch to 5/8-inch length, pan or oval head) and rubbing them on a bar of soap or beeswax before driving.
• Edge-mount sensitivity: The screw slots on the catch body sit back from the roller nose. That’s standard for this style, but it does mean your screw positions can end up closer to the edge than you might expect. If your frame stock is thin or previously repaired, plan your placement carefully.
• No soft-close: Not a flaw, just a design reality. If you want damped closes, look to magnetic/damper combos or hinge-mounted dampers.

Practical install tips

• Drill pilots. Even in softwood, it prevents splitting and reduces the chance of stripping or snapping screws.
• Use a hand screwdriver for the last few turns. Power drivers are quick, but it’s easy to over-torque small screws.
• Align with marks, not guesswork. Tape plus a transfer mark (lipstick, graphite, or chalk) saves time and avoids rework.
• Test the “feel” before committing. Temporarily mount with one screw per piece, test, then add the rest once you like the action.

The bottom line

The QEDT roller catch is a simple, reliable way to give stubborn cabinet doors a proper close. It installs quickly, feels reassuring in use, and the bronze finish looks at home on both modern and vintage pieces. While I’d upgrade the included screws—especially on dense or old wood—the catch itself is durable and well-executed for the price. If you need a clean, mechanical solution that doesn’t rely on magnets or self-closing hinges, I recommend it. It’s an easy win for refreshing furniture and cabinetry, and it delivers the quiet “click” that keeps doors where they belong.