keenkee 8 PCS Cabinet Latch Double Roller Catch Hardware for Cupboard Closet Cabinet Door Latches and Catches, Black Nickel

What You Get in the Box

The keenkee double-roller latch set ships as an eight-pack, each latch paired with a matching striker and all the screws you need. The parts come organized and protected, and there’s a small install aid (a paper template) that makes alignment more foolproof than guessing and drilling. Each unit carries an authenticity label you can scan to pull up a short installation video. I watched it before my first install and found it clear and to the point—handy if you haven’t fitted this style of catch before.

Build and Finish

These are classic spring-loaded double-roller catches: a black nickel–plated steel body with twin black nylon rollers and a steel striker. The finish is a dark, discreet gray-black that blends under cabinet frames and doesn’t shout through light gaps. More importantly, the plating is even and clean. I checked for burrs and rough stamping; edges were smooth, and the rollers spun true with no wobble on every unit I tried.

The rollers ride on a spring-loaded mechanism that provides the “snap” as the striker engages. The head has some lateral play, which is by design—this little bit of swivel is what helps the latch forgive minor misalignment between door and frame.

Worth noting: this is plated steel, not stainless. In a standard kitchen, closet, or office environment, that’s absolutely fine. If you’re planning an installation in a damp utility room or near a saltwater source, I’d keep an eye on long-term corrosion or choose a stainless catch.

Installation Experience

I installed four of these across two use cases: replacing tired magnetic catches on older kitchen cabinets, and upgrading a wardrobe in a small travel trailer. In both scenarios, the process was straightforward.

How I approached it:
- Marked the centerline of where the striker meets the latch body with the door closed.
- Used the included paper template to position the base and striker. The template’s hole spacing matched precisely.
- Pre-drilled pilot holes. This is important—small screws in hardwoods or face frames can strip or split if you drive them cold.
- Mounted the latch body first, then loosely mounted the striker.
- Closed the door and nudged the striker until the “click” felt centered, then snugged everything down.

There’s a little adjustment available from the oval mounting slots on the striker, and the swiveling roller head takes up what the slots don’t. On a face-frame cabinet, I mounted the latch on the frame and the striker on the door’s inner lip; on a frameless cabinet, the latch went to the cabinet side panel with the striker on the door edge. Either way, budget for about 10 minutes per door if you’re methodical.

One tip: the included screws are small and soft enough to cam out if you rush. A proper #1 Phillips, gentle pressure, and pre-drilling make it easy. In one install, I applied a tiny dab of paste wax to a roller that felt a hair stiff out of the box; it smoothed right out.

Performance and Feel

These latches are designed for a positive mechanical hold, not the gentle pull of a magnet. Closing the door yields a distinct, satisfying click; you’ll need a purposeful tug to open, which is exactly what I want to keep doors from creeping open over time.

Spring force felt consistent across units—moderate to firm. On the repainted, slightly warped kitchen doors, the latch masked out the minor misalignment that had made magnetic catches unreliable. After a few weeks of daily use, the rollers still feel smooth and the spring action crisp.

In the travel trailer, things get more interesting. For light cabinets with modest contents, one latch per door held through normal towing and the occasional rough patch without incident. On one heavier wardrobe door loaded with coats, I did manage to pop the door once after a hard hit on a bad road. Adding a second latch at the opposite corner solved it. If your RV habit includes washboard roads or heavier loads behind doors, plan either two latches or a dedicated positive-lock RV catch. For most lightweight cabinet doors, a single latch is fine.

Noise-wise, you’ll hear that mechanical click. It’s not loud, but it’s present. If you’re accustomed to soft-close hinges, remember this is a different category—it secures doors, it doesn’t manage closing speed.

Fit and Compatibility

• Door type: Works on both face-frame and frameless cabinets. For inset doors, alignment is easy; for overlay doors, just position so the striker reaches the latch body as the door closes.
• Door weight: Great for standard kitchen and closet doors. Heavy, tall doors may benefit from two latches.
• Finish matching: The black nickel finish plays well with black hardware, brushed nickel, oil-rubbed bronze, and even matte brass because it mostly hides in the shadows.
• Clearances: The latch body is compact; I didn’t encounter interference with shelves or hinges in typical cabinet depths.

One small design plus: the striker is gently ramped, so it guides into the rollers rather than slamming them. That reduces wear and makes closure feel smoother.

Durability Expectations

Nylon rollers are my preference over all-metal in this category—they’re quiet, they don’t gall, and they’ll tolerate small bits of dust without binding. After repeated openings and closings, I can’t see any flattening or roughness on the roller surface. The springs feel stout; I’d expect years of service in a home setting.

The finish on my units has resisted minor scuffs from installation and door contact. Again, they’re steel and plated, not stainless; if you live on the coast or plan to install in a damp RV compartment, consider a light wipe with corrosion inhibitor or choose stainless hardware.

Where These Shine

• Refreshing older cabinets where paint buildup or slight warp defeated magnets.
• Adding a positive hold to closet doors that like to drift open.
• Camper and RV cabinets that need more grip than a magnet provides (with the caveat about heavy doors and rough roads).
• False drawer fronts and lightweight doors that need a firmer bite.

Small Gripes

• No adjustable tension. You tune engagement by alignment only; there’s no set screw to change spring force.
• Included screws are adequate but soft. If you’re installing into hardwood or plywood end-grain, consider upgrading the screws.
• Not stainless. Fine for most interiors, but not ideal for marine or very humid environments.
• There’s a click. If you’re chasing absolute quiet, this isn’t it.

Value

An eight-pack is the right quantity for a small kitchen or a whole bank of closet doors, and having spares on hand pays off when another latch fails down the line. Considering the build, finish, and included install aids, the price lands in the “worth it” category, especially if you’re replacing several unreliable magnetic catches.

Recommendation

I recommend the keenkee double-roller latches for most cabinet, closet, and light RV applications. They install cleanly, the black nickel finish is unobtrusive and broadly compatible, and the spring-and-roller mechanism provides a reliable, positive hold that magnets can’t match. If you’re outfitting very heavy doors or cabinets that see extreme vibration, plan on doubling up latches or stepping to a purpose-built RV latch with a locking handle. For typical home use—and for many camper cabinets—these offer a thoughtful balance of build quality, ease of installation, and holding power.