DeWalt Spade Bit (1/4 in x 6 in)

Why I kept reaching for this 1/4-inch spade bit

On a recent retrofit where speed mattered more than furniture-grade finishes, I kept one 1/4-inch spade bit parked in my quick-change chuck all afternoon. Between drilling pilot pass-throughs in studs for sensor leads, popping clean holes in plywood cabinet backs, and making jig holes in MDF, this little spade bit earned its keep. It’s purpose-built for fast wood drilling, and within that lane it performs reliably well.

Build and design

The bit’s design hits the right notes for jobsite use:

• Heat-treated full-length shank: On a thin 1/4-inch profile, bending and torsion are real concerns if you drive hard or get hung up. The heat-treated shank keeps the bit tracking true, and I noticed no visible deflection even when I leaned on it through wet SPF.
• Cutting spurs: The paddle’s spurs scribe the circumference before the flat cutters clear the interior. That translates to noticeably cleaner entries than older flat-spade designs. Face-grain holes in pine and poplar looked crisp; ply veneers fared better than average for a spade bit.
• Chip-clearance channel: There’s a relief groove that helps evacuate chips. On a 1/4-inch bit you’ll rarely bind from chip load, but the channel does help prevent the “squeal and polish” you sometimes get in resin-rich softwoods.
• 1/4-inch hex with ball-groove: It drops straight into standard quick-change chucks and locks positively. The hex shank also prevents spinning in standard three-jaw chucks. I ran it in both a drill/driver and an impact driver without slippage.
• Hang hole: The hole in the paddle is handy for clipping to a pegboard, but it’s also useful for wire pulling. With a 1/4-inch hole you’re not fishing NM cable; think pulling twine or a fish tape leader for low-voltage runs.

One note on materials: I’ve seen this bit listed as high-speed steel in some places and as carbon steel in others. In use, it behaves like a hardened high-carbon steel spade bit—tough, sharp enough out of the package, and resistant to bending, but not happy if it meets metal. If you expect to hit nails or screws, you’ll want an auger designed for that abuse.

Speed and hole quality

Spade bits are about speed, and this one is genuinely quick. In 2x SPF studs, I was through in a second or two with a compact drill/driver at high speed, no pre-drill. The spur point starts predictably, with far less skating than flat-nose spades. In plywood, the entry hole was sharp with minimal veneer lift; the exit still exhibits typical spade-bit blowout if you don’t back it up. With a scrap backer, I got clean exits in birch ply and MDF.

Where it really earns points is in consistency. Some spade bits walk if the pilot isn’t prominent; here the spur point is aggressive enough to establish center quickly. On vertical surfaces overhead (drilling upward through joists), the bit stayed on line, which I attribute to the stiff shank and hex interface—less flex, less wobble.

If you need cabinet-grade results, a brad-point or Forstner will still yield cleaner walls and truer diameters. This bit’s holes were true enough for pass-throughs, jig pins, and clearance for 1/4-inch hardware. As with most spades, I measured slight fuzzing and occasional micro-tear in laminated materials without a backer, but nothing that affected function.

Accuracy and tracking

• Start: The spur pilot bites quickly, so I could start on a pencil cross without punching or awl work on softwoods. On melamine or finished veneer, I still recommend a light center punch to prevent skating.
• Diameter: The holes were within typical spade-bit tolerance. For tight-tolerance joinery, you’ll want a different bit style; for clearance or pass-through, it’s spot-on.
• Grain transitions: Drilling across edge grain and knots didn’t cause the bit to corkscrew or grab. The cutters stayed balanced, and feed remained predictable.

Durability over a workday

I ran the bit through a couple dozen holes in SPF, about a dozen in 3/4-inch birch ply, and a handful in MDF. The edge stayed sharp enough to keep pulling clean entry circles in softwood; in MDF (which is abrasive), I could feel a slight loss of bite by the end, but not enough to slow the work. Heat build-up was modest, and I didn’t see any blueing. Importantly, the 6-inch overall length and heat-treated shank kept it straight—no permanent bend after a few accidental side loads.

Avoid hidden fasteners; the cutting edges will nick immediately. That’s not a flaw of this bit specifically—just the nature of spade geometry and hardened edges. If you suspect metal, switch to an auger or a multi-material bit first.

Compatibility and handling

The ball-groove hex shank makes this bit a natural in impact drivers, and I used it that way in tight spots. The bit handled the percussive action fine; chips cleared, and there was no chatter at moderate trigger pressure. In a standard drill/driver, the hex shank eliminates chuck slip, which is especially helpful with small-diameter spades that can polish and spin.

At 6 inches long, reach is adequate for common stud and joist work, though not long enough to bridge double-stud assemblies in one pass. If you need deeper reach, you’ll want an extension or a longer bit.

Use cases where it shines

• Rapid pass-throughs for low-voltage runs and sensor leads
• Clearance holes for 1/4-inch bolts, shelf pins, and jig fixtures
• Production work in softwood where speed and acceptable edges matter more than pristine walls
• Overhead drilling with an impact driver and quick-change chuck

Areas where I’d choose a different bit:

• Finish cabinetry and exposed faces where exit blowout is unacceptable (use brad-point or Forstner with a backer)
• Holes that may intersect hidden fasteners (use a nail-eating auger)
• Electrical rough-in requiring larger diameter holes for code-compliant cable runs

Tips for best results

• Start slow to let the spur establish the center, then ramp up speed and feed.
• Use a backer to prevent exit blowout in ply and veneered panels.
• Clear chips every few holes in resinous woods; the channel helps, but a quick back-out keeps temperatures down.
• If drilling at an angle, tilt only after the spur has set to avoid walking.

Pros and cons

Pros:
- Fast, predictable drilling in softwood and common engineered panels
- Cleaner entries than flat spades thanks to cutting spurs
- Stiff, heat-treated shank resists bending on a thin profile
- Quick-change ball groove and 1/4-inch hex shank are genuinely convenient
- Useful hang hole for storage and light wire pulling

Cons:
- Exit blowout typical of spade geometry without a backer
- Edge dulls sooner in abrasive materials like MDF compared to brad-point bits
- Not intended for incidental metal contact
- 6-inch length limits reach for some framing scenarios

The bottom line

This 1/4-inch spade bit is a straightforward, job-ready cutter that prioritizes speed and consistency. The heat-treated shank and hex/ball-groove interface make it durable and easy to handle in both drill/drivers and impact drivers. Cutting spurs give it a leg up on entry-hole cleanliness versus older spade designs, and the chip channel keeps it moving in softwoods and ply. It won’t replace brad-point or Forstner bits when you need pristine walls or precise diameters, and like any spade, it dislikes metal and will blow out exits if you don’t back the work. But for fast, repeatable holes in wood and common engineered panels, it does exactly what it should.

Recommendation: I recommend this bit if you need a dependable 1/4-inch spade for rapid drilling in wood with decent entry-hole quality and the convenience of quick-change compatibility. It’s a solid everyday choice for rough-in, jig-making, and general carpentry where speed matters. If your work demands flawless edges or you expect to encounter fasteners, select a different bit style; otherwise, this spade bit is an easy add to the kit.