DeWalt Demolition Bimetal Reciprocating Saw Blades

Demolition work is hard on blades, and a recip blade is often the difference between a clean, controlled cut and a frustrating, smoky mess. I’ve been running these DeWalt demolition blades through typical tear‑out tasks—studs with errant nails, sheathing, and occasional fiber‑cement trim—and they’ve earned a spot in my demo kit for fast, straight cuts where longevity matters more than fine finish.

What stands out

• Tall, thick body that tracks straight and resists buckling
• Bi‑metal tooth line that bends rather than snaps
• Aggressive 6 TPI for fast wood cutting
• Tooth geometry that sheds chips well

On paper, DeWalt also claims a life boost over prior versions. I can’t quantify their “up to 50% longer” statement across every material, but in side‑by‑side use against some older bi‑metal demolition blades I had on hand, I got noticeably more cuts before teeth rounded over.

Build and fit

The first thing you notice is the blade’s height and thickness. That extra mass does two things in practice: it stiffens the blade so it tracks straighter when you’re plunging through sheathing, and it resists the corkscrewing that thin, flexible blades do when they hit dense knots or screw shafts hiding in lumber. The bi‑metal construction gives the tooth edge hardness while letting the backer flex. I abused a blade in some nail‑peppered 2x stock until it kinked; even then, it didn’t snap, and I could finish the cut.

Fitment is universal; the shank locked into my DeWalt and Milwaukee saws without play. These are sold in a five‑pack, and at 6 inches long with 6 TPI, they’re tuned for fast, rough wood work. There’s no case; blades arrive carded, which is fine for jobsite use where they’ll end up in a pouch or bucket anyway.

In the cut: wood demolition

In framing lumber and sheathing, these blades are quick. The 6 TPI tooth pattern bites aggressively and keeps chips moving out of the kerf. That tooth geometry matters: with some demo blades, especially in resinous or wet lumber, chips pack up and you feel the saw start to shudder and heat. With these, I could keep a steady feed without the motor working harder than it needed to. Backing out briefly to clear chips became less necessary.

Cut surfaces are predictably rough—this is a demolition blade—but I did appreciate the precision‑set teeth. Relative to a few other 6 TPI blades in my drawer, these left less tearing and fewer ragged fibers along the edges when I cut exterior trim for removal. You won’t use them for finish work, but for controlled demolition where you want to preserve the mating surface, they’re better than average.

Handling nails and incidental metal

These blades are intended for wood and demolition scenarios, not for dedicated metal cutting. That said, demo means hidden hardware, and I inevitably met nails. The blades tolerated incidental nail strikes without shedding teeth. I could feel the edge dull mildly after repeated hits on old, hardened fasteners, but the blade kept cutting wood efficiently afterward. If your tear‑out involves a lot of screws, hangers, or pipe, step up to carbide‑tooth demolition blades; bi‑metal can’t match carbide for sustained metal contact. For intermittent nails in wood, these held up as expected.

Fiber cement and other materials

I tested the blades on some fiber‑cement siding offcuts. They’ll do it, and the cut speed is acceptable for short trims. However, fiber cement is abrasive; the bi‑metal edge dulled faster than it did in wood. If you have a lot of fiber‑cement to remove or modify, I’d switch to a blade meant for that material (carbide or grit). For drywall, PVC, or tile, these are the wrong tool—use a finer tooth or specialty blade to avoid chipping and dust issues.

Control and tracking

The thicker, taller profile is the quiet hero here. On plunge cuts into sheathing and subfloor, the blade stayed on line without skating sideways. That translates into fewer chewed‑up edges around your cut and less effort managing the saw’s nose. On long cuts through doubled 2x stock, the blade resisted the “banana” effect where a thin blade wanders and you exit an inch off your line. The trade‑off is slightly more mass and, on some saws, a bit more vibration transmitted to the user compared to ultra‑thin blades—but the cut quality and control were worth it.

A note about length: at 6 inches, these excel when you can keep the shoe planted and the blade fully supported. If you need to reach past deep obstacles or cut larger timbers, step up to a longer demolition blade. Otherwise, using the shortest blade that can reach your cut will always give you the best stiffness and control.

Durability and lifespan

Across a day of mixed cuts—2x framing with nails, roof decking, and a few plunge cuts through subfloor—I used two blades. The first dulled but remained serviceable; I kept it for rougher work. The second stayed sharp enough to leave a cleaner edge on controlled cuts. Compared with a couple of generic bi‑metal blades I keep for rough jobs, these DeWalts held their edge longer and resisted tooth deformation better. I didn’t experience any tooth strip‑out, and I didn’t snap a blade despite intentional binds to test the backer’s resilience.

Heat buildup was well managed. The chip‑clearing geometry helps, but technique matters: let the saw do the work, keep the shoe planted, and modulate feed pressure so chips stay large and free‑flowing rather than powdered. Backing out to clear the kerf on deep rips prolongs life.

Practical downsides

• Not for dedicated metal cutting. They’ll tolerate nails, but screws and hangers will eat them quickly.
• The 6 TPI pattern is fast but coarse; if you need a cleaner cut line to preserve an adjacent surface, consider a 10–14 TPI wood/metal blade for that specific task.
• No case included. Not a dealbreaker, but job boxes love to chew teeth. A scrap of hose or a blade sleeve helps.
• Warranty isn’t stated. With consumables, I don’t expect much, but it’s worth noting for those who like satisfaction guarantees.

Tips for best results

• Use the shortest blade that reaches your cut; shorter equals stiffer and straighter.
• Keep the shoe firmly planted; it reduces vibration and prevents the blade from buckling.
• For plunge cuts, start with a gentle arc and let the aggressive tooth pattern bite—don’t slam the nose.
• If you hit metal, finish the cut if you must, then retire that blade to rough duty and install a fresh one for controlled cuts.
• On resinous or wet lumber, occasionally ease off to clear chips and keep the blade cool.

Bottom line

These DeWalt demolition blades strike a strong balance of speed, control, and durability for wood‑centric demolition. The tall, thick body tracks true, the bi‑metal tooth line holds up well to the abuse of tear‑out, and the chip‑friendly geometry keeps the cut moving without bogging the saw. They’re not a universal answer—heavy metal or extended fiber‑cement work call for specialty blades—but for studs, sheathing, subfloor, and the inevitable surprise nail, they deliver.

Recommendation: I recommend these if your demolition work is primarily wood with incidental fasteners and you value straight tracking and longer life from a bi‑metal blade. They’re a dependable, jobsite‑ready choice that outlasts budget alternatives and helps you make faster, cleaner demo cuts without fuss.