Bosch 4-1/2" Premium Plus Continuous Rim Diamond Blade

I first put this Bosch blade to work on a bathroom remodel where porcelain floor tile, a granite threshold, and a marble backsplash all had to be cut on a small angle grinder and compact tile saw. I wanted edges clean enough to ease with a hand pad, not hide behind heavy caulk. A continuous rim is the right style for that kind of finish work, and this one didn’t disappoint.

Setup and fit

Out of the package, the blade feels well balanced with a stiff core. The thin kerf (0.047-inch blade thickness with a 0.063-inch segment) is immediately noticeable—exactly what you want for reduced friction and a crisper edge. It ships ready for the most common arbors: 7/8-inch, 20 mm, and 5/8-inch. I ran it on two tools:

• A 4-1/2-inch angle grinder with a 7/8-inch arbor and dust shroud
• A compact tile cutter that takes a 5/8-inch arbor

In both cases, the fit was snug without fussing with extra spacers, and there was no detectable wobble. The 4-1/2-inch diameter gives you around 1-1/4 inches of cutting depth, which covered every tile I used. For anything thicker than that—some thresholds and pavers—you’ll be flipping the workpiece or moving to a larger saw.

Cutting performance on porcelain, granite, and marble

I tested on three common hard materials: 3/8-inch porcelain, 1/2-inch marble, and 3/4-inch granite tile.

• Porcelain: Dry on a grinder, I got consistent, clean cuts with minimal edge chipping. Feeding the blade steadily and letting it do the work produced a “factory adjacent” edge that needed just a couple of passes with a 200–400 grit hand pad to soften. On a wet tile cutter, quality improved further—the edge was practically chip-free. For plunge cuts and L-cuts, I scored lightly first, then finished with a second pass; that sequence kept micro-chips to a minimum.

• Marble: Marble is softer but prone to bruising if a blade grabs. The continuous rim here was gentle. I could scribe and follow the line without the blade “walking.” The result was glassy for a grinder cut. If I rushed the feed, I did see some very fine feathering, but it dressed out quickly with a stone.

• Granite: Granite is where lesser blades telegraph their limits. I made several straight cuts in 3/4-inch granite tile on the wet saw and a couple of notches on the grinder. It tracked straight and didn’t burn or polish the stone, provided I let the diamonds do their job. On the grinder, I used two or three shallow passes rather than one deep plunge; that kept heat in check and maintained edge quality. For a 4-1/2-inch blade, it’s capable here, just not a stock removal monster.

Overall, cut cleanliness is the headline. A continuous rim sacrifices a bit of speed compared to turbo or segmented blades, but it pays you back with less touch-up and fewer “oops” chips along the glaze on porcelain.

Heat management and blade life

Continuous rims can run hot, especially dry. I mostly cut wet on the tile cutter and used dust extraction on the grinder. When dry cutting porcelain and granite, I took short passes and air-cooled the blade between cuts. That kept the rim from tinting and avoided warping.

In terms of life, the manufacturer claims longer life than standard blades. I can’t quantify the “up to 5x” claim across every use case, but after a bathroom’s worth of cuts—roughly 100+ linear feet across porcelain and marble, plus half a dozen granite cuts—the blade is still cutting briskly with no visible glazing. One mid-project dressing pass with a soft brick brought the bite right back after a run of dry porcelain cuts. Compared to store-brand blades I’ve used, this one holds its edge longer and maintains cut quality deeper into its lifespan.

Speed versus finish

If you’re chasing production speed, a turbo rim will remove material faster. This Bosch blade lives on the finish side of the spectrum. My average feed rate on 3/8-inch porcelain (wet) was a steady, controlled push without stalling; dry on the grinder, I slowed slightly to keep chipping at bay. In exchange, I avoided the telltale “mouse bites” along the glaze and rarely needed to dress the cut with a rubbing stone. For vanity top cutouts, U-cuts, and exposed edges, that’s a worthwhile trade.

Grinder versus tile cutter

• Angle grinder: For on-site notches and plunge cuts, the blade starts cleanly and stays on line. The thin kerf makes it easier to manage tight inside corners. I recommend a dust shroud and vacuum, and if you can, lightly score your line before going full depth. On a high-RPM grinder, don’t force the cut; the blade rewards a lighter touch with less heat and cleaner edges.

• Tile cutter: Wet, this blade shines. With the work well supported, I could push-to-cut without any harmonic chatter. If I forced the feed, I noticed a slight deflection on thicker granite; backing off returned the blade to true. Use a steady feed and let the rim track—your edges will look ready for grout out of the saw.

Build and balance

Made in Korea, the blade’s core feels true and resists warping. A quick ring test sounded clean out of the box. The diamonds are distributed evenly along the rim, and the bond seems tuned toward hard tile: not so hard that the blade glazes immediately, not so soft that it sheds diamonds prematurely. Balance is excellent; there’s no wandering on the line, and the blade doesn’t shudder when entering the work.

Where it excels—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Very clean edges on porcelain, granite, and marble
- Thin kerf reduces chipping and keeps the cut trackable
- Versatility: fits common arbors (7/8-inch, 20 mm, 5/8-inch) and runs well on both grinders and tile cutters
- Solid life for a continuous rim, especially when used wet or with light passes

Limitations:
- Depth is capped at 1-1/4 inches with this diameter—fine for tile, limiting for thick stone or pavers
- Slower than turbo or segmented blades on long, straight production cuts
- Not the right choice for concrete, masonry block, or aggressive stock removal

Practical tips for best results

• Score first: A shallow scoring pass dramatically reduces chipping on porcelain.
• Support the work: Vibrations cause chips; keep tile flat and level on the table or fully supported for grinder cuts.
• Manage heat: Use water whenever possible, or make short, shallow dry passes and pause between cuts.
• Dress when needed: If the blade slows or starts to burnish, a few strokes on a dressing stone or soft brick will refresh the rim.
• Finish lightly: A quick pass with a diamond hand pad or rubbing stone gives edges a professional feel without hiding mistakes behind grout.

Value and who it’s for

This blade lands in that sweet spot of reliable, job-ready performance without boutique fuss. While I wouldn’t choose it to rip miles of quarry tile at top speed, it’s excellent for remodelers, tile setters, and serious DIYers who care about clean edges on hard materials. If you run both a grinder and a small tile saw, the multi-arbor compatibility keeps your kit simple.

Recommendation

I recommend this Bosch blade for anyone who needs clean, predictable cuts in porcelain, granite, and marble using a small angle grinder or compact tile cutter. It prioritizes finish over brute speed, stays true under reasonable feed rates, and holds its edge longer than budget options I’ve used. If your work includes exposed edges, cutouts, or finicky L-cuts in hard tile, this blade’s continuous rim and thin kerf will save you time in touch-up and reduce the risk of chips that ruin an otherwise perfect piece. If you frequently cut thick stone or want maximum speed on long runs, pair it with a larger or turbo blade. For its intended role, though, it’s a steady, capable performer that earns a spot in the kit.