DeWalt 1/2 in. (13 mm) VSR Mid‑Handle Grip Drill with Keyless Chuck

First impressions and setup

I put the DeWalt mid‑handle 1/2‑inch corded drill to work on a couple of jobs: boring large holes for wiring and rough‑ins, and mixing buckets of joint compound. Out of the box, it feels purpose‑built for torque. The metal gear housing gives it a confidence‑inspiring heft without being cumbersome (about 5.2 lb), and the mid‑handle layout balances the tool well. The included 360° side handle locks down firmly and can be positioned exactly where you want it, which matters a lot on a drill that will try to twist out of your hands when a bit binds.

The 8‑foot cord is long enough for most indoor work without feeling tethered, though I still ended up on an extension cord for overhead drilling. The single‑sleeve, all‑metal ratcheting keyless chuck and automatic spindle lock are welcome features—no hunting for a chuck key, and you can torque down on a bit with one hand.

Power and speed control

This drill’s 10‑amp motor is the headline. It delivers the sort of low‑end torque you want for self‑feed bits, hole saws, and mixing paddles. There’s a variable‑speed trigger with reverse, topping out at roughly 1,200 RPM. Practically, that means you have one “gear” that spans slow, controlled starts up to a brisk general‑purpose speed.

The upside: excellent torque and consistent power under load. The downside: finesse at the very bottom of the trigger can be touchy. Feathering a very slow start takes practice. For drilling, that’s rarely a dealbreaker—you can set the bit, squeeze through the sensitive zone, and the motor pulls steadily. For mixing, it’s more noticeable. A bucket of compound wants a slow, smooth ramp‑up to avoid a mess, and the trigger’s initial sensitivity requires a light touch. I got better results “pulsing” the trigger to get the paddle moving and then rolling into a steady speed, rather than trying to hold a hairline slow setting.

There’s no lock‑on switch. For most drilling I prefer that—if a bit binds, releasing the trigger instantly stops the motor. For long mixing sessions, you’ll miss it. Plan for short breaks or switch hands to avoid fatigue.

Chuck and bit retention

The chuck is a high point. It’s all‑metal, single‑sleeve, ratcheting, and the automatic spindle lock lets you really cinch it with one hand. With twist bits, spade bits, and hole saw arbors, bit slip was rare when I tightened it properly—hand‑tight until the ratchet clicks.

Two cautions:
- With large bits or mixing paddles, retighten once after the first high‑torque start. That “second tighten” after the bit seats has kept everything secure for me.
- In tight quarters, if the chuck sleeve rubs against a wall or stud while you’re pressing forward, the friction can rotate the sleeve just enough to loosen it. It’s not common, but it can happen with single‑sleeve designs. Keep a little clearance at the nose, and check tightness after a cramped cut.

Reverse engaged cleanly and helped free a stuck self‑feed more than once.

Ergonomics and handling

The mid‑handle design is the right choice for this form factor. Compared to a rear‑handle corded drill, the balance is better and the wrist angle is more natural, especially when you’re aligning a big hole saw at shoulder height. The soft grip is comfortable, and the side handle adds real control. I set the side handle slightly high and braced it against a nearby stud when boring big holes; that gave me a predictable “stop” if the bit caught.

At 5.2 lb, it’s not featherweight but feels compact. The dimensions (about 11.3 inches long) let me get between studs without gymnastics, though in very tight bays a right‑angle drill is still the better tool.

Drilling performance in wood and steel

In wood, the drill is in its element. With a sharp self‑feed up to about 2‑1/2 inches, it powered through studs without bogging. Hole saws for 3‑inch boxes and plumbing penetrations were straightforward—just let the saw do the cutting and avoid forcing it. Spade bits up to about 1‑1/2 inches ran cleanly and fast. The listed capacities line up with my experience: you’re at the upper end of what you’d want in a mid‑handle chassis without stepping into right‑angle territory.

In steel, a 1/2‑inch twist bit at proper speed and with cutting fluid was drama‑free. The motor’s torque helps maintain steady pressure, but keep the RPM modest; thin material will heat quickly if you run it too fast. For larger hole saws in sheet metal, keep your wrists square and let the side handle do its job.

Kickback is real with any powerful corded drill. If a self‑feed or hole saw binds, the motor doesn’t hesitate—it will try to spin the drill body. Two‑handed grip, side‑handle use, squared stance, and planning an exit path for chips all matter. The VSR trigger and immediate stop on release help, but you still need good technique.

Mixing duty

As a mixer, it has the power to spin a paddle through thick compound or thin‑set without bogging. The challenge is maintaining a consistently low RPM to keep the bucket neat. With practice, I got clean starts by dipping the paddle below the surface, pulsing the trigger, and then easing into continuous rotation. The torque is a plus—you can mix heavy batches without the motor smelling hot or straining.

Because there’s no lock‑on, longer mixes do fatigue the trigger hand. If mixing is your primary use, that’s a consideration. For occasional buckets between drilling tasks, the trade‑off for safety is worth it.

Durability, maintenance, and warranty

The metal gear housing feels robust and resists the dings that chew up plastic over time. Venting is sensible, and I never felt excessive heat in the handle, even after a morning of hole saw work. The chuck has held up well to repeated bit changes, and the ratchet action remains crisp.

Routine care goes a long way:
- Blow out dust from vents after cutting or mixing.
- Wipe the chuck sleeve clean so grit doesn’t affect the ratchet.
- Check screws/handle tightness periodically.

The warranty package (3‑year limited, 1‑year free service, 90‑day satisfaction) is reassuring for a corded drill in this class.

Limitations and quirks

• Trigger finesse: The earliest part of the trigger pull is sensitive, making ultra‑slow starts a bit jumpy.
• No lock‑on: Safer for drilling, less convenient for long mixing sessions.
• Chuck clearance: If the chuck sleeve rubs a surface, it can loosen. Maintain clearance and retighten in cramped cuts.
• Single top speed: With a max around 1,200 RPM and no 2‑speed gearbox, very small twist bits don’t get the high RPM some users prefer; it’s optimized for torque jobs.
• No clutch or kickback control: Use the side handle and brace when using aggressive bits.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re real traits that determine whether this is the right drill for your workflow.

Who it’s for

• Remodelers, electricians, plumbers: Great for self‑feeds, hole saws, and general rough‑in.
• Drywallers and finishers: Plenty of grunt for mixing compound with a proper paddle, provided you’re comfortable with the trigger’s low‑speed behavior.
• Shop users: A dependable corded option when a cordless runs out of steam on bigger bits.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Users who mix all day and want a lock‑on switch and ultra‑smooth low RPM.
- Anyone frequently drilling in ultra‑tight spaces where a right‑angle drill is a better fit.
- Users who want high‑RPM drilling for small bit work; a compact high‑speed drill or cordless might feel snappier.

Practical tips

• Always use the side handle and brace it against a stud or your forearm when using large bits.
• Start big holes with a pilot bit and keep chips clearing to reduce binding.
• For mixing, dip the paddle below the surface before starting; pulse the trigger to avoid splatter, then ease into a steady speed.
• Tighten the chuck until the ratchet clicks; after the first heavy start, stop and re‑tighten once.
• If a bit binds, release the trigger immediately, reverse briefly to free it, then continue.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt mid‑handle 1/2‑inch corded drill for anyone who needs a compact, high‑torque corded driver for rough‑in drilling and occasional mixing. Its strengths—torque, robust build, secure all‑metal chuck, and stable mid‑handle ergonomics—show up on every cut. The trigger’s low‑speed sensitivity and lack of a lock‑on switch are the main trade‑offs; they’re manageable with technique and, in the case of the lock‑on, arguably a safety benefit for drilling. If your work leans toward big bits in wood and occasional steel, and you want corded consistency without jumping to a heavier right‑angle, this drill earns its place in the kit. If ultra‑fine low‑RPM control or all‑day mixing is your priority, a purpose‑built mixer or a drill with a lock‑on and gentler trigger curve may suit you better.