DeWalt 1/2 in (13 mm) Spade Handle Drill

Why I reached for this spade‑handle drill

I bought this spade‑handle drill for two jobs: mixing batches of thinset and patch, and chewing clean holes through framing for plumbing and electrical. A standard pistol‑grip drill wasn’t cutting it—too fast, not enough torque, and too easy to whip a wrist when a big bit binds. This DeWalt spade‑handle model sits at the other end of the spectrum: slow, strong, and built to be controlled with both hands. After a few weeks of mixing, hole‑saw work, and some heavy drilling in steel, I have a clear sense of where it shines and where a different tool might be the better fit.

Build, handling, and controls

The first thing you notice is the stance. With a two‑position rear spade handle and a three‑position side handle, the drill invites a stable, two‑handed grip whether you’re mixing vertically in a bucket or drilling horizontally into a stud bay. The handles are thick enough to grab confidently, and the soft overmold keeps your palms from skating when things get messy. At roughly 7.5 lb, it’s not featherweight, but the mass works for you by taming vibration and kickback.

The trigger has a long, predictable pull that makes low‑speed starts easy, which matters for mixing without splashing and for landing big bits without skittering. Forward/reverse is a simple slide switch positioned where you can flip it with your thumb without shifting your grip. There’s no clutch or anti‑kickback electronics here; this is a classic, mechanical, high‑torque drill. Use the handles.

The keyed 1/2 in chuck locks down on large‑shank paddles and hole saw arbors with a positive bite. I prefer a keyed chuck on a mixer/drill like this—less chance of a paddle backing out during a stall. The included chuck key holder keeps the key on the cord, which is one less thing to misplace.

Power and speed behavior

Specs put the motor at 9 amps on 120 V with a 0–550 RPM range. That’s a low no‑load speed, and it’s by design; in this class, low RPM is what buys you torque. There’s enough gearbox reduction that, even near full trigger, the motor spins fast relative to the output shaft, so the cooling fan continues to move air. During long mixing sessions, the housing got warm but never crossed into “I need to stop” territory.

Trigger modulation is easy to control between about 100 and 400 RPM, and the last bit of pull brings you to around 500–550 RPM. For mixing, the ability to settle in around 200–300 RPM without pulsing is ideal. For drilling, the slow top speed is perfect for big self‑feed bits and large hole saws in wood, and for larger twist bits in steel. If your day is mostly small‑diameter holes in wood or metal, the slow top end will feel limiting.

Mixing performance

This drill is a natural as a mixer. With a 1/2 in paddle, I mixed repeated half‑bag batches of modified thinset to a consistent, bubble‑free texture. The low speed helps prevent entraining air, and the torque doesn’t lag as the mix stiffens. The drill will lug down and keep turning rather than racing and cavitating the bucket. On joint compound, I could keep the trigger barely cracked to float the paddle without slinging mud, then bring it up as the material loosened.

Under an extended run—several batches back‑to‑back—the gearbox stayed composed, and the motor’s airflow kept the body from getting too hot. The handles matter here: the rear spade handle gives you a natural wrist angle over a bucket, and the side handle stabilizes the tool’s tendency to wring itself when the paddle catches.

If you routinely mix at very low speeds with very heavy loads, keep in mind that air flow is tied to motor RPM, not the chuck speed. This drill’s gearing allows the motor to spin even as the chuck turns slowly, which helps cooling, but I still avoid feathering the trigger to a crawl for long stretches. Instead, I run just high enough to keep the motor moving air.

Drilling performance

In framing, the tool is rated for up to 2‑9/16 in self‑feed bits and up to 5 in hole saws in wood. I ran a 2‑1/8 in hole saw through 2x studs and a 2‑9/16 in self‑feed through doubled LVL. The drill pushed both with confidence. When a tooth grabbed a knot, the motor didn’t stall instantly; it slowed and gave me time to correct angle or back out using reverse. This is where the dual‑handle setup pays off. Keep your elbows locked and brace the spade handle against your forearm—the torque is real.

In steel, I tested up to a 1/2 in twist bit in mild plate and step‑drilled holes in steel channel. The low speed is an asset here; you can stay within proper cutting speeds without riding the trigger. The weight helps you maintain steady pressure. Cutting oil and patience are still required.

For smaller holes—pilot holes, cabinet hardware, and everyday general drilling—this is not the drill I reach for. The low top speed and mass make it overkill and slower than a compact drill/driver or even a regular corded 3/8 in drill. It also doesn’t have a clutch, so driving screws is a non‑starter.

Ergonomics, cord, and day‑to‑day details

• The 8 ft cord is adequate for most shop and jobsite setups, but plan on an extension cord for room‑scale work.
• Balance is good with a paddle or big bit installed; the nose doesn’t dive aggressively when you set it down.
• Noise is mostly gearbox whir and airflow—not shrill, and conversation is possible, but I still wear hearing protection for long mixing sessions.
• The side handle threads in securely in all three positions and hasn’t walked loose on me.
• There’s no case included; I keep the drill, paddle, and key in a bucket.

Durability and service

The drill feels like a simple, serviceable design with real bearings where you want them and a gearbox that doesn’t weep. It’s CSA listed, and DeWalt backs it with a 3‑year limited warranty, 1‑year free service, and a 90‑day satisfaction guarantee. That’s not unique in the pro space, but it’s reassuring for a tool that will see continuous‑duty mixing and the occasional bind‑up.

Where it falls short

• No hammer mode. If you’re drilling masonry, you need a different tool.
• No clutch or kickback control. Respect the torque and use both handles.
• Keyed chuck. I prefer it here, but if you live in a keyless world, it adds a small step to every bit change.
• Top speed is 550 RPM. That’s perfect for its intended jobs but slow for general drilling. It’s a specialty tool, not a one‑drill‑does‑everything.
• Corded only. If you’re fully cordless on site, plan for power management.

Who it’s for

• Trades and remodelers who mix thinset, patch, or joint compound regularly.
• Carpenters and plumbers who run large self‑feed bits and big hole saws in wood.
• Metalworkers who need steady low‑speed torque for larger twist bits.

Who it isn’t for: anyone looking for a compact general‑purpose drill/driver or a single machine to handle masonry, fastening, and small‑bit drilling quickly.

The bottom line

This spade‑handle drill does exactly what I want a mixer/low‑speed torque drill to do: it starts gently, holds speed under load, and gives me the leverage to control kickback. The 9‑amp motor and 0–550 RPM range are well matched to mixing and large‑diameter drilling, the handles are thoughtfully positioned, and the keyed chuck grips like it should. It’s not flashy and it doesn’t try to be everything. It’s a reliable, purpose‑built workhorse that makes tough, slow jobs feel manageable.

Recommendation: I recommend this tool for anyone who mixes compounds regularly or drills large holes in wood or steel. The torque, control, and cooling characteristics suit those tasks perfectly, and the ergonomics reduce fatigue and risk. If you need speed for small holes, hammer drilling, or screw driving, pair it with a separate drill/driver or SDS hammer. Used for its intended roles, it’s a dependable, confidence‑inspiring addition to the kit.