Skil The UGLY 8 in. 6/12 TPI All-Purpose Reciprocating Saw Blade (5-Pack)

A weekend with the Ugly blade

I put the Ugly blade through a few very different jobs over several weekends—yard clean-up, a small bath remodel, and some shop odds and ends. It’s an 8-inch, bi-metal, variable-TPI recip blade with titanium-coated teeth and a plunge-friendly profile, so it’s built to be a one-blade-does-most option. I swapped it among my corded and cordless saws and tried to treat it as the “default” blade you keep in the case.

Design and build

The blade uses a progressive tooth pattern (6–12 TPI), which means the tooth spacing is coarser near the tang and gets finer toward the tip. In practice, that helps it start cuts smoothly and keep chips clearing as you lean into thicker stock. The bi-metal construction gives you a hard tooth edge on a more flexible spine. Compared with thick, aggressive demolition blades, the Ugly blade is noticeably more compliant. That’s a double-edged sword: the flex helps with control and flush cuts, but it can buckle if you overfeed in tough material. The titanium-coated teeth aren’t a gimmick here—they seemed to resist gum-up and heat tint longer than uncoated general-purpose blades I use.

At 8 inches, you get enough reach for pruning up to 4-inch limbs, cutting through 2x material, and reaching past drywall to pipes and fasteners, without the whip you sometimes get on 12-inch blades. The universal tang seated cleanly in every saw I tried.

Wood and pruning performance

Most of my wood testing was on yard work: green branches from 1 to 4 inches and a couple of dry limbs. In the 1–2 inch range, the Ugly blade is quick and predictable. On 3–4 inch green branches, it’s still capable, but you need to let the teeth work. With orbital action on and moderate pressure, it cut clean arcs without binding. When I got impatient and bore down, the blade telegraphed it right back—more vibration and a tendency to deflect. Once, pushing too hard into wet elm, I managed to create a shallow “S” kink that I could bend back by hand and keep working. Lesson learned: this isn’t the thickest pruning blade in my drawer. Back off the feed, keep the branch supported, and set your stroke to use the full blade. Do that, and it prunes efficiently with minimal chatter.

On dry 2x lumber, the progressive tooth pattern shines. The cut starts without skate, and once fully engaged, chips clear well. It’s not the absolute fastest cutter compared to super-coarse, tall-kerf demolition blades, but the pace is steady and easier to control.

Nail-embedded wood and light demo

I like to test “all-purpose” claims by cutting something you’re likely to hit on a remodel: a 2x4 stud with a couple of 16d nails. The Ugly blade chewed through cleanly. You feel a slight change in tone when the teeth ride into steel, but the stroke stays smooth and the blade doesn’t lurch. After several passes through nail-embedded 2x and some OSB with screws, the teeth still felt sharp to the fingertip and only showed light straw coloring at the tips.

In demo work—pulling out a door jamb with buried screws, cutting through an old treated deck picket with ring-shanks, trimming a toenail—this blade held up well. Its thinner spine makes it easier to follow curves and avoid collateral damage. If you’re used to stiff, thick demolition blades, you’ll notice more feedback in your hands; it’s not harsh, but you do need to keep the shoe planted and your feed pressure measured.

Metal cutting

A variable 6–12 TPI blade sits on the coarse side for thin metal, so I kept expectations reasonable. Cutting 1/2-inch EMT conduit and zinc-plated screws: no problem. It starts easily, especially if you use the finer-tooth tip to initiate the cut, then bring more blade into the stroke. On thin sheet or strapping, it will catch if you run full speed and push hard. Back the speed down, reduce orbital action, and support the work to avoid flutter. For thicker steel or constant metal-only work, a dedicated 14–18 TPI bi-metal or carbide blade is still the right tool. But as a grab-and-go generalist, the Ugly blade handled mixed-material cuts without fuss.

Plunge cuts and control

The plunge-style body is more than marketing. I used it to open a rectangle in 1/2-inch drywall for an old-work box and to chase a notch in 7/16-inch OSB. The tip bites predictably without walking, and the blade tracks straight with the shoe anchored. In plywood, the nose starts cleanly if you angle in and feather the trigger. Being able to start a cut without drilling a pilot hole is a genuine time saver, and the Ugly blade’s flex helps you keep the entry controlled rather than violent.

Where the flex is less helpful is in aggressive plunge cuts in dense stock (think double-plate or hardwood). It’ll do it, but you’ll get more vibration than with a thicker, heavier demolition blade. Again, technique matters—shorten the stroke if your saw allows, ramp the speed, and keep your arms soft.

Durability and wear

After a handful of pruning sessions, several nail-embedded wood cuts, and intermittent metal, the first blade in the pack is still serviceable. The titanium-coated teeth seem to delay resin buildup and heat-related dulling. I had no tooth loss, and the set remains consistent. I did kink one blade slightly by pinching it in green wood; I could straighten it and keep going, but once a blade gets kinked, you’ll always feel a bit of lateral wander. That speaks to the tradeoff of flexibility versus stiffness. If your day is full-tilt demo, you’ll appreciate a thicker spine; if you value control and versatility, you’ll appreciate a little give.

The five-pack format is practical. I like starting a remodel with a fresh blade for wood and switching to a “beater” blade once I know I’ll be in contact with fasteners. Having spares avoids the temptation to force a tired blade.

Compatibility and ergonomics

The universal tang locked positively in my saws without play. With my brushless recip on orbital mode, the blade clears chips well in wood. On straight stroke, it behaves better in metal and plastics. Noise and vibration are in line with other all-purpose bi-metal blades of similar thickness. Plant the shoe, keep a smooth feed, and the blade runs quietly enough for conversation. Push too hard, and you’ll know—this blade communicates through your hands.

Where it fits

• Use it if you want one blade to live on your saw for mixed tasks: pruning small-to-medium branches, cutting 2x and sheet goods, occasional nails and screws, quick EMT cuts, and plunge work in drywall/OSB.
• Use it if you prefer a controllable, slightly flexible blade that helps with flush cuts and curved paths.
• Consider something else if you regularly cut thick, wet limbs or do heavy demolition. A dedicated pruning blade (with ultra-coarse teeth and a thicker body) or a thick-kerf demolition blade will resist buckling and run faster under heavy feed pressure.
• Consider a finer-tooth metal blade if your work is mostly steel and aluminum.

Tips for best results

• In green wood, use orbital action and moderate pressure; let the teeth clear chips.
• For plunge cuts, start with the tip and feather the trigger to avoid a hard slam-in.
• In thin metals, slow the stroke, reduce orbital action, and support both sides of the cut.
• If you feel the blade “S” buckling, back out, reposition, and reduce feed—don’t try to power through.

Recommendation

I recommend the Ugly blade as a solid all-purpose option for homeowners, DIYers, and remodelers who need one blade to cover a lot of ground without swapping constantly. It’s sharp, starts cuts cleanly, handles the usual nails-and-wood surprises, and has enough reach for common pruning. The flexible spine aids control and flush cutting, and the titanium-coated teeth hold up respectably across mixed materials. The tradeoff is that it’s not the bruiser you reach for in hard-and-fast demolition or thick, wet pruning; push too aggressively and it will flex or kink. If your work leans toward light-to-medium tasks across different materials, the Ugly blade is easy to keep on the saw. If you mostly do heavy demo or constant metal, pick a purpose-built blade instead.