CC Concrete Coatings Vivid Acid Stain for Concrete | Mahogany | 1-Gallon

I’ve long preferred reactive stains over paints for concrete, so I put the Vivid acid stain in Mahogany through a couple of real projects: an older outdoor pad that sees weather and a newer interior slab we wanted to finish with a low-maintenance, variegated look. Across both, the stain delivered the trademark mottled, mineral-like movement acid stains are known for, with some caveats around prep, concrete variability, and application technique that are worth understanding before you commit.

What it is—and what it isn’t

Vivid is a penetrating, chemical stain, not a film-forming coating. It doesn’t “sit” on the surface, it reacts with the free lime and minerals in the concrete to create color that won’t chip, crack, or peel. That’s a big advantage over topical dyes and paints, especially in high-traffic areas. But the flip side is predictability: the outcome is heavily influenced by your specific slab—its finish (how “tight” it is), age, mix design, and exposure to weather or contaminants. If you want a uniform, paint-like color, this isn’t the right product. If you’re after organic marble-esque movement and permanent color, this is the correct tool.

The Mahogany color, in my hands, pushed from warm rust to coffee-brown with charcoal and gray marbling in denser or highly troweled zones. On a portion of crushed limestone-based concrete, I saw a deeper espresso tone than on river-aggregate concrete poured elsewhere on the property. Expect variation; embrace it.

Prep matters more than technique

The most consequential work happens before you open the jug.

• Verify the concrete is bare and breathable. Any sealer, curing compound, densifier, paint, or adhesive will block the reaction. On my outdoor pad, a small water drop test beaded in one corner—sure enough, that area barely took the stain until I mechanically opened it with a light pass from a floor buffer and an abrasive pad.
• Clean deeply. I degreased with TSP, scrubbed with a green pad, and rinsed to a neutral pH. Dust, oil, or efflorescence will telegraph through and mute color.
• Plan for drainage and low spots. Acid solution will follow gravity. Mark puddle-prone areas so you can brush through them during application.

If you’re staining new concrete, I’d wait at least 28 days for curing. For outdoor slabs that have lived under acidic rain or under decks with treated lumber (drip lines can etch “ghosts”), know that prior exposure can pre-react parts of the surface and subtly change how the stain takes.

Application: two workable approaches

I tried both the traditional “textbook” application and a weather-assisted approach.

• Traditional method: I dampened the slab to SSD (saturated surface dry) so there was no standing water, then applied the stain with a dedicated pump sprayer in a circular, overlapping motion. Keeping a wet edge is key. I watched for pooling in low spots and feathered those with a soft-bristle broom.
• Weather-assisted method: On a second pass outdoors, I took advantage of intermittent rain. I sprayed onto a damp (not wet) surface and let nature help with the black residue removal during the reaction window.

In both cases, the stain reacted predictably—foam or “fizz” is normal on more reactive patches. If a section doesn’t fizz at all, it may be sealed or too tightly troweled.

For those looking to moderate intensity, diluting Mahogany with water 1:1 and applying two lighter passes gave me more control over depth and movement than a single full-strength flood. On very reactive areas, full-strength Mahogany can push toward near-black; dilution and test patches help you steer the outcome.

Neutralizing and cleanup

After 2–4 hours, the surface develops a dark residue. You need to neutralize the acid and lift the residue before sealing.

• Neutralize with a mild ammonia-and-water mix or a baking soda solution until the rinse water holds a neutral pH (7–8). I used a shop broom to agitate and a wet vac to collect rinse water.
• Rinse thoroughly. If a white, crusty film appears after drying, it’s typically residual salts—one more rinse usually clears it.
• Outdoors, steady rain did an effective job of moving the residue without extra scrubbing. I still did a quick pH check afterward to be safe.

Give the slab ample drying time before sealing—24 hours minimum with good airflow, longer if the slab is cool or the air is humid.

Color outcome and consistency

Mahogany produced the classic acid-stain palette: warm brown base with variegated mottling. On my interior slab, lightly troweled areas read as rich chestnut; the steel-troweled band by the doorway went cooler and darker. The outdoor pad, poured with a different aggregate, skewed more orange-brown overall with charcoal “clouds” where magnesium-rich fines were present. This is normal and, for me, the appeal.

If you need to match an exact tone across adjacent pours, be prepared for subtle differences. Sample boards cast from your mix and finish will tell you more than a generic color chart.

Coverage and cost

My average coverage fell in the 250–300 square feet per gallon range, depending on surface tightness and how much I overlapped to even out pooling. On especially thirsty or etched concrete, you’ll use more. On slick, dense surfaces, you’ll use less—but you may also get a darker tone in fewer passes.

Durability and sealing

Because the color is a product of chemical reaction inside the surface, it’s not going to peel. Abrasion and staining resistance, however, come from your sealer and maintenance routine.

• Indoors, a water-based acrylic sealer followed by a sacrificial wax gave me a subtle sheen and made cleanup easy.
• Outdoors, I used a breathable, UV-stable acrylic sealer with a satin finish. The wet look will always deepen the color; matte or satin will keep it closer to the dry appearance.
• Re-apply sealer as traffic dictates. The underlying color has held up well to foot traffic and occasional moisture.

Pitfalls and troubleshooting

A few lessons learned that might save you time:

• If the stain looks “watery,” that’s normal—the liquid is just a carrier. The “stain” is the reaction it triggers in the slab, not a pigment deposit. If color doesn’t develop, the surface is likely sealed or too dense. Mechanically open it or use an etcher, then retest.
• Avoid standing water during application. Damp is good; puddles cause tide lines and overly dark patches. Use a foam squeegee or broom to disperse.
• Expect darker results on limestone-heavy or magnesium-rich mixes, and lighter on silicate-rich river aggregates. Highly burnished concrete may need light abrasion to open the surface.
• New slabs poured with integral water reducers or curing agents can be temperamental. Spot test several areas before committing.
• Always mask metals and adjacent finishes. Acid will etch them.

Safety notes

This is an acid product. I wore gloves, goggles, long sleeves, and used a respirator when spraying indoors. Protect landscaping, neutralize and collect rinse water where required by local regulations, and keep pets and kids off the work area during the reaction window.

Who it’s for

Vivid makes sense if you:

• Want permanent, variegated color that won’t chip or peel.
• Are okay with organic movement and some unpredictability.
• Can commit to prep, testing, and sealing.

It’s not ideal if you need a uniform, paint-like finish or if your slab is covered in unknown, stubborn sealers you aren’t prepared to remove.

Recommendation

I recommend the Vivid acid stain in Mahogany for DIYers and pros who value a durable, mottled, natural look and are willing to respect the prep and process. It delivered a permanent, attractive finish on both of my test slabs, with reliable reaction and good coverage. The uncertainty lies not in the product but in the concrete beneath it. If you run test patches, manage moisture during application, and seal appropriately, you’ll get a floor or pad that looks far more expensive than it is and won’t peel or flake. If you’re chasing a specific, uniform tone across mixed substrates or want a guaranteed match to a color chip, a water-based stain or tinted sealer might be a better fit. For reactive-stain results, though, this one hits the marks that matter.