Classic Coatings Systems Classic Coatings | Strip Away Paint and Sealer Remover | Interior and Exterior Surfaces | Zero VOC, Non-Toxic, Environmentally Friendly | Ready to Use | 1-Gallon

Why I reached for this stripper

My test slate for Strip Away was a familiar headache: a paver patio buried under multiple coats of aging acrylic sealer, a driveway with a blotchy pigmented stain and topcoat, and a metal handrail tagged with spray paint. I wanted a remover that wouldn’t fumigate the block, could work inside and out, and wouldn’t require mixing or exotic PPE. Strip Away is a ready‑to‑use, water‑based formula with zero VOCs and no caustics, so it fit the brief. The manufacturer recommends applying it about twice as thick as the coating you’re removing, letting it work for 4–6 minutes, and blasting it off with a pressure washer rated at least 2700 PSI. That short dwell time and the need to keep the product wet shaped how I approached each project.

What’s in the can and how it handles

Strip Away pours like a medium‑bodied gel—thicker than a paint, thin enough to roll or brush without fighting it. There’s virtually no odor, which is a big deal indoors or near doors and windows. I rolled it onto horizontal surfaces and brushed it onto vertical ones. The “twice as thick as the coating” rule of thumb is solid guidance: on heavy, glossy patches I laid it on generously; on lighter weathered areas, I went thinner.

You cannot let this product dry. In full sun or warm, dry air, the 4–6 minute window tightens. Working in the shade or early/late in the day helps. On hot days, I misted the surface lightly with water if I saw edges flashing off before the dwell time was up.

Removal is all about the pressure washer. I used a 3000 PSI unit with a 15° nozzle, keeping the tip 6–8 inches off the surface and adjusting distance to avoid damaging the substrate. The spent coating turns into an emulsified slurry that lifts and rinses away. Plan for containment and cleanup; although the chemistry is water‑based and non‑caustic, the slurry contains whatever you just stripped.

Performance on real surfaces

• Paver patio with multiple acrylic sealer coats: This is where Strip Away shined. Within a few minutes, the sealer softened and wrinkled. A methodical pass with the washer lifted it down to clean stone. On thick, glossy patches (likely overlapping recoats), I needed a second application. Sanded joints held some softened material, but a slower rinse cleared them without dislodging joint sand excessively. The finished patio was uniformly matte and ready for prep.

• Driveway with pigmented stain plus clear sealer: The pigmented residue took more patience. First pass removed the clear topcoat and some of the color; a second pass cleared the rest. Working in 4–5 foot sections prevented premature drying and gave me time to rinse thoroughly. After two applications, the concrete looked evenly stripped without etching or roughening from the remover itself.

• Metal handrail with spray paint: On steel, Strip Away softened the graffiti quickly, but gravity is your enemy. I back‑brushed during the dwell to keep the gel in place and laid down a disposable catch board below to limit runoff. The paint rinsed clean, leaving the original finish intact. For vertical work, small sections and attentive timing are key.

I also spot‑tested the product on a small piece of painted softwood. It lifted the old latex, but the pressure washing raised the grain. That’s not a Strip Away problem so much as a water‑jet reality; if you’re stripping wood you care about, use lower pressure, a wider fan tip, and be prepared for sanding afterward.

Coverage and pace

The published range of 100–175 square feet per gallon is realistic, but it swings widely with coating thickness and how generously you apply it. On my pavers with heavy build, I averaged roughly 120 sq ft/gal. On the driveway, closer to 150–160 sq ft/gal. Vertical metal, because of thicker application to combat runs, used more product than the square footage would suggest.

Plan on multiple applications if you’re tackling multi‑coat systems or older, UV‑hardened sealers. The short dwell time can make the work feel brisk—coat, wait a few minutes, rinse, repeat—so the overall pace stays productive, but you do need to keep moving.

Cleanup and surface prep for recoat

After stripping, I followed with a degrease/etch step before resealing. The brand’s Eco‑Etch concentrate is designed for this, and a quick pass both degreased and lightly etched the concrete. That extra step pays off in adhesion and uniformity when you apply new stain or sealer. Rinse until the water runs clear and allow the surface to dry fully before coating.

Disposal matters. Even though the remover is non‑hazardous and non‑flammable, the waste contains paint and sealer solids. I corralled the slurry with sand socks and wet‑vacs to avoid sending everything into the lawn or storm drains. On that note: the product literature says it won’t affect lawns and plants, and I saw no damage from overspray or light runoff. However, where concentrated slurry pooled on turf for more than a few minutes, I did see some temporary browning. Keep it moving and rinse landscapes promptly.

Safety and usability

Not having to deal with heavy solvent fumes is a big quality‑of‑life improvement. Even indoors with doors and windows cracked, the air stayed comfortable. That said, I still wore gloves and eye protection—softened coatings get messy, and the pressure washer throws splashback. Underfoot, the emulsified layer is slick; grippy boots and a stable stance are essential.

One practical constraint: the product assumes you have access to a capable pressure washer. If you don’t, removal becomes a slog. At 2700 PSI and up, the gelled coating sheets off cleanly. Below that, you’ll spend more time and may leave residue.

Where it excels and where it struggles

Strengths:
- Very low odor and zero VOCs make it friendly to use around homes and occupied spaces.
- Ready‑to‑use formula keeps the workflow simple—no mixing, no neutralizer.
- Effective on common targets: acrylic sealers, latex and oil paints, lacquers, and graffiti.
- Doesn’t bite into masonry or metal; it’s a remover, not an etchant.

Watchouts:
- Dwell control is critical. In hot, dry, or sunny conditions, work in small zones and don’t let it dry.
- Thick, multi‑coat systems may require two or more passes.
- Vertical surfaces need back‑brushing to prevent runs.
- Requires a 2700+ PSI washer to realize its potential.
- On wood, the pressure‑wash step can raise grain; plan accordingly.

A side note: if you’re actually dealing with calcium, salt, or mineral deposits rather than coatings, a chemical etch product is the right tool. Strip Away is for organic coatings; it won’t dissolve mineral scale.

Support and sourcing

I appreciate that this is formulated and made in the U.S., and the company’s application guidance is straightforward. I leaned on their how‑to material before starting, and the recommendations around thickness, dwell, and pressure were accurate. It’s refreshing when the label’s workflow matches real‑world results.

Tips from the field

• Shade is your friend. If you can’t avoid sun, preplan small sections and keep a mister handy.
• Mask and contain. Gutters, gravel, and lawns need protection from slurry. Squeegee or vacuum puddles fast.
• Use the right nozzle. A 15° tip balanced stripping power and control on concrete; a 25° worked better on pavers to protect joint sand.
• Test patches. Coatings vary more than labels suggest. Adjust thickness and dwell based on your test square.
• Don’t skip the post‑strip clean. A quick degrease/etch step sets you up for a uniform recoat.

The bottom line

Strip Away earns a place in my kit for stripping sealers and paints from concrete, pavers, and metal without turning the job site into a hazmat scene. It’s genuinely low‑odor, simple to apply, and, with the right pressure washer, fast to remove. It’s not magic—multiple applications are common on built‑up coatings, and you need to manage dwell time and runoff—but the tradeoffs favor safety and predictability over brute force chemistry.

Recommendation: I recommend Strip Away for homeowners and pros who need to remove acrylic sealers, latex/oil paints, and graffiti from masonry and metal, especially where low odor and safer handling are priorities. You’ll get the best results if you have a 2700+ PSI washer, can work in controlled sections to keep the product wet, and are prepared to do a post‑strip clean before recoating. If you lack a capable pressure washer, are stripping delicate wood, or are facing two‑part industrial coatings, this wouldn’t be my first choice. For its intended targets, though, it’s an effective, user‑friendly option that trades harsh solvents for a cleaner workflow without sacrificing results.