PRIME-LINE R 7265 Drawer Track Back Plate, 3/8 In. x 1 In., Plastic, Off-White

Why I reached for these

In a recent cabinet refresh, I ran into a familiar problem: the rear supports for a set of side-mount drawer slides had crumbled. The cabinet boxes didn’t offer a clean way to anchor the slides at the back, and without that rear connection the drawers racked and bound halfway in. I grabbed a pair of these Prime-Line back plates and used them both to repair the failed drawers and to try a small “floating” drawer inside a shelving unit. They ended up being the small, specific part that quietly solves a big alignment headache.

What they are

These are plastic rear brackets designed to support side-mounted drawer glides that use a 3/8-inch by 1-inch rear engagement. Each pair includes a left and a right plate in an off-white color. The key dimension is the internal opening: it accepts slides/tracks sized 3/8 inch wide by 1 inch tall, with a bracket depth of 3-9/16 inches. In other words, if you’re working with older or slimmer side-mount rails that rely on a rear plug-in, these plates are purpose-built to capture and locate the back end of the slide.

Fit and compatibility

The fit is precise. The 3/8-by-1 opening is snug enough to keep a slide aligned without play, yet not so tight that installation becomes fussy. Before committing screws, I dry-fit several slide profiles, including a 20-inch side-mount set with a 3/8-inch rear tang. All seated cleanly. If your slides are the common modern ball-bearing type with wider rear brackets, note that those typically require a different style of rear mount; measure your slide’s rear engagement first. For legacy or slim-profile side-mount tracks that are truly 3/8 by 1 at the tail, these plates are a match.

Because the plates are 3-9/16 inches deep, check your cabinet’s rear clearance. In a shallow carcass, that extra depth can interfere with full drawer closure unless you plan for it. The plastic is easy to trim squarely with a fine-tooth saw or an oscillating multi-tool if you need to fine-tune length.

Installation experience

Installation is straightforward:

• Locate and level the slides along the cabinet side or divider, leaving the rear end floating.
• Slip the rear tang of the slide into the plate to confirm engagement.
• Position the plate on the rear wall of the cabinet, using the slide to set elevation and setback.
• Mark, pre-drill, and fasten the plate. Then secure the slide to the cabinet side/front as needed.

On the sets I used, the plates had sensible screw locations that let me anchor into solid material without fighting the frame. I appreciate that the plastic has enough meat to accept wood screws without cracking, but it’s still wise to pre-drill and avoid overtightening. Mine arrived with basic mounting screws; they worked, though I swapped in longer pan-head screws in plywood to maximize bite. If you’re installing into particleboard or MDF, step up the length and consider washers.

The off-white color blends in well enough inside light cabinets. If you’re fussy about appearance behind a glass door, you can hit them with a quick coat of paint or a plastic-friendly finish to match.

Performance and day-to-day use

Once installed, these back plates do exactly what they’re supposed to: hold the rear of the slide firmly at a fixed point. That single task has outsized impact on drawer feel. On my repaired drawers, racking disappeared, and the last inch of travel no longer felt mushy. The slide/plate engagement doesn’t squeak or click; it’s a secure, quiet seat. The plastic dampens vibration better than metal brackets I’ve used in the past, which can transmit more noise into the cabinet.

For the small “floating” drawer I built into a shelf cubby—essentially a drawer box riding between two verticals without a full-depth side—I used the plates as a rear anchor where I lacked structure. The ability to mount a slide to a stable point at the back made the setup work without adding a bulky side cleat. The result feels solid and hides hardware nicely.

Build quality and durability

These are injection-molded plastic with a bit of flex that’s beneficial during install and in use. They’re not brittle. The material springs back rather than cracking if you slightly misalign a slide during dry fit. Over several weeks of daily use in a kitchen base cabinet, I haven’t seen deformation or loosening. That said, plastic is still plastic: if you overdrive fasteners, pry on them aggressively, or mount into crumbly material, you can compromise the bracket.

Compared with metal rear brackets, the trade-offs are clear:
- Pros: quieter, corrosion-proof, easy to cut/fit, kinder on the slide’s finish.
- Cons: not as crush-resistant; you need to respect the installation and material limits.

For most household drawers, they’re more than strong enough.

Where they shine

• Repairs of older cabinets with 3/8-by-1 side-mount slides, especially where the original rear cups/brackets have failed.
• Face-frame cabinetry where the rear wall is the only practical anchor point for slide alignment.
• Lightweight builds like RVs, trailers, or closet systems where minimizing weight and hardware bulk helps.
• Custom installs where a clean rear anchor makes a “floating” or inset drawer practical without adding more blocking.

Limitations and gotchas

• Slide compatibility is non-negotiable. These are for track systems with a true 3/8-inch by 1-inch rear profile. If your slides aren’t that size, choose a different bracket.
• The 3-9/16-inch depth can be too long in shallow cases. Plan for it, or trim.
• If your cabinet back is thin hardboard or has voids, you’ll need a backer block to give screws something to bite.
• While the included screws worked for me, I recommend sourcing your own to match substrate and load.

Practical tips

• Pre-drill every hole. The plastic holds a thread well when you don’t split it with an overly large, dry-driven screw.
• Use a scrap of your slide as a spacer jig. Seat it in the plate, clamp the slide level at the front, then locate the plate; it ensures perfect alignment without measuring.
• If trimming depth, square the cut and lightly chamfer the edge so it doesn’t snag on installation.
• Consider a tiny shim behind the plate if you need to bring the slide out to match a face-frame reveal.

Value

There’s not much to say beyond this: these are simple, purpose-built parts that save time. I’ve used cheaper no-name brackets that felt chalky and brittle, and I’ve used heavy metal versions that were overkill for a small drawer and noisier. These hit a practical middle ground—affordable, easy to work with, and sized correctly for a common but increasingly niche slide format.

Who they’re for

• DIYers and pros repairing side-mount drawers in older kitchens or furniture.
• Builders who want a clean rear anchor for slides without adding side blocking.
• Anyone working within the 3/8-by-1 slide ecosystem who needs a reliable, low-profile rear bracket.

If you’re on modern ball-bearing slides with different rear geometry, skip these and buy the bracket style made for your slide model.

The bottom line

These back plates quietly fix a fundamental problem: how to hold a side-mount slide precisely at the back of a cabinet when there’s nothing else to grab. They fit 3/8-by-1 slides correctly, install easily, and keep drawers running true. Plan your depth, choose the right screws for your substrate, and they’ll do their job for years without fuss.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone working with 3/8-inch by 1-inch side-mount slide systems who needs a dependable rear mounting solution. They’re simple, accurately sized, and easy to install—a small part that meaningfully improves drawer alignment and feel. If your slides use a different rear profile or you need heavy-duty metal hardware for oversized drawers, look elsewhere; otherwise, this pair is a smart, low-hassle fix.