PRIME-LINE MP7211 Drawer Slide Kit – Replace Drawer Track Hardware – Self-Closing Design –Fits Most Bottom/ Side-Mounted Drawer Systems –17-3/4 In. Steel Tracks, Plastic Wheels, White

Why I reached for this slide kit

I had a set of aging kitchen drawers with tired, gritty slides and a bathroom vanity with one side-mount rail bent just enough to grind. Rather than rework the cabinetry, I wanted a straightforward replacement that would fit existing bottom- or side-mount layouts and restore smooth motion. The MP7211 slide kit from Prime-Line checked the boxes: 17-3/4-inch steel tracks for 18-inch-deep drawers, self-lubricating plastic rollers, and a simple self-closing action near the end of travel. It’s a builder-grade, no-frills solution, but that’s exactly what many retrofit projects call for.

What’s included and first impressions

In the box: a pair of cabinet tracks, a pair of drawer tracks, rollers preinstalled, a bag of fasteners, and basic instructions. The steel members are finished in white, which blends nicely in light-colored cabinetry and utility furniture. The rollers are plastic (nylon) and ride cleanly on the tracks. This is not a ball-bearing, full-extension mechanism—think traditional roller slides with a 3/4-extension feel—but they’re solid and appropriately finished for their class.

Key specs worth noting:
- Length: 17-3/4 inches (for 18-inch-deep drawers)
- Mounting: bottom or side
- Self-closing action: final ~2.5 inches
- Weight rating: up to 75 lbs
- Stops: positive stop closed; double stop open
- Clearances required: 1/2 inch each side, 1/4 inch at bottom, 5/8 inch at top

That top clearance spec matters. If your opening is tight above the drawer box, measure before you commit.

Installation: simple, but layout matters

On paper, installation is as basic as replacing like-with-like, and in one vanity cabinet that’s exactly how it went. The rails offer plenty of hole options, which helped me reuse existing screw positions where the substrate was still strong. Everything lined up, the drawer engaged cleanly, and the self-closing action took over near the face frame. Done.

On another cabinet, “same holes” wasn’t the right move. The self-closing feature uses a cam near the tail of the cabinet track. If you set the cabinet members flush with the old rail position without checking where that cam meets the drawer roller, you can end up with the self-close engaging too early—or worse, the roller nudging past the stop. My fix was to treat the setback like a fresh install:

• Dry-fit the cabinet tracks with two temporary screws each, leaving them slightly adjustable.
• Slide the empty drawer on until the rollers ride past mid-travel.
• Check when the self-close begins: it should only engage in the last couple of inches as the drawer meets the face.
• Adjust the cabinet track position if the stop engages early, then lock the screws.

Once you dial in setback, the rest goes quickly. I prefer to start with the cabinet members, then mount the drawer members flush with the box front and centered vertically, using a square to maintain parallelism. A small torpedo level or a spacer block helps if you’re mounting bottom-rail style.

A note on rear support: many frameless or older cabinets rely on rear brackets rather than a solid side panel. If your cabinet lacks a rear mounting surface or it’s chewed up, a compatible back bracket makes the job painless. Prime-Line’s R 7240 rear bracket pairs with these slides and saved me a lot of fiddling on one retrofit.

Fit and compatibility

These are versatile slides. They work in side-mount or bottom-mount configurations and are particularly friendly to retrofits thanks to the generous hole patterns. That said, the clearance requirements are non-negotiable:

• 1/2 inch on each side of the drawer
• 1/4 inch at the bottom
• 5/8 inch at the top

If your drawer box and opening don’t meet these, you’ll need to shim or plane accordingly. I had a slightly out-of-square opening; a thin shim behind one cabinet member squared things up and eliminated a mid-stroke rub.

Performance and feel

Loaded with everyday kitchen gear—utensils, gadgets, and some heavier pieces totaling around 40–45 pounds—the action remained smooth and quiet. The nylon rollers don’t have the luxury-glide sensation of ball-bearing slides, but they’re consistent and low-friction once aligned. Noise is minimal; the only audible cue is the soft pickup as the self-close cam engages, which pulls the last couple of inches decisively without slamming.

The double stop at full open keeps the drawer from popping free unexpectedly but still allows removal by raising the front slightly and pulling. At full extension, you get the expected 3/4-view of the drawer interior—fine for most applications, but not ideal for deep tool drawers or wide file drawers where seeing the back is critical.

Durability and build

For their class, the materials are appropriate. The painted steel tracks resist casual corrosion and clean easily. The rollers are the wear item on any slide like this; after repeated cycles during testing and a month in daily use, I don’t see flat-spotting or wobble. As with any plastic-roller system, longevity depends on staying within the weight rating and keeping screws tight. If you habitually overload drawers or want a heavier, premium feel, you’ll be happier with ball-bearing soft-close slides instead.

Limitations and what to watch for

• Alignment sensitivity: The self-closing cam is placement-sensitive. If the cabinet track sits too far forward, the stop can catch early. Test with temporary screws.
• Not full extension: These are standard roller slides; if you need full access to the back of the drawer, look elsewhere.
• Aesthetic considerations: The white finish is great in light cabinetry, but it can stand out against dark interiors.
• Weight ceiling: 75 lbs is generous for kitchens and bathrooms, but heavy shop drawers or cookware pull-outs may push the limit.
• Instructions are basic: They cover the essentials. If you’re new to slides, plan on a dry fit and a few test cycles before driving final screws.

Tips for a clean install

• Measure twice, especially height clearance at the top. The 5/8-inch spec is easy to overlook.
• Use a rear bracket if your cabinet lacks solid structure at the back; it saves time and frustration.
• Pre-drill pilot holes in particleboard or MDF to prevent splitting and stripped threads.
• Start with two screws per member, test the slide action, then add the remaining screws.
• If you experience a mid-close “catch,” shift the cabinet track back slightly and retest.

Who this is for

• Homeowners refreshing builder-grade kitchens or bathrooms without a full cabinetry redesign.
• Landlords and property managers who need a reliable, economical replacement that fits mixed cabinets.
• DIYers converting fixed shelves to sliding trays in utility spaces, where quiet, smooth action matters but premium hardware isn’t required.

If you’re outfitting high-end cabinetry or want soft-close, full-extension performance with a premium glide, skip roller slides and invest in high-quality ball-bearing hardware. But for practical, quick-turn repairs and straightforward replacements, these make a lot of sense.

The bottom line

The MP7211 slide kit delivers what it promises: a simple, compatible replacement with smooth, quiet movement and a helpful self-closing pull-in at the end. Installation is approachable, especially if you take a few minutes to set the cabinet-track setback so the cam engages at the right moment. The weight rating is ample for everyday drawers, and the included fasteners and hole options make retrofitting older cabinets easier than most.

I recommend this slide kit for budget-conscious repairs and upgrades where you want reliable function without upgrading the entire drawer system. It’s not a luxury glide and it’s not full-extension, but it’s dependable, easy to install, and a meaningful improvement over worn, gritty hardware.