SiliFine 24 Packs 1/8'' 1/4'' 5/16'' 5/32'' Deck Spacer Tool Gap Jig Deck Board Spacer Rings Assorted Easy Pull Guide Tool for Pressure Treated Composite Decking Plank Lumber Hardwood PVC, 4 Colors

Why consistent gaps matter

Even spacing between deck boards isn’t just about looks—it’s about drainage, drying time, and preventing cupping or trapping debris. On new builds and rehabs alike, I rely on spacers to remove the guesswork. The SiliFine deck spacer rings brought a simple, color-coded approach to a task that’s easy to overcomplicate with scrap wood, eyeballing, or a tape and a prayer.

What’s in the set

This kit includes 24 ring-style spacers in four sizes, each color-coded:
- Orange: 1/8 inch (3 mm)
- Red: 5/32 inch (4 mm)
- Green: 1/4 inch (6 mm)
- Yellow: 5/16 inch (8 mm)

That covers the most common gap ranges for pressure-treated lumber, composite/PVC, and hardwood installations. I like that the set doesn’t make you choose a size up front—on real jobs, board moisture, climate, and manufacturer guidance can vary. Having all four in one pouch meant I could adapt on the fly.

Build and ergonomics

The rings are a stiff, durable plastic with rounded corners and slightly beveled faces. The edges slide between boards without catching fibers on soft pressure-treated pine or marking composite caps. The ring shape doubles as a finger grip, which made them easy to place and—equally important—easy to pull even with gloves and a bit of sawdust in the way.

They’re not flimsy. I stepped on a few during a long day and they flexed rather than cracked, then snapped back to shape. I wouldn’t expect them to survive a direct screw hit or being clamped hard in a joint, but under normal use they hold up.

Accuracy and consistency

I checked a selection with calipers; the spacers were true to size and consistent within a small fraction of a millimeter across the set. More important in practice, the boards stayed visually parallel across long runs. Once the first board was set square, I used two spacers at each joist bay—one near each screw line—to prevent toe-in on the next board. That simple approach yielded straight, evenly spaced courses without constant re-measuring.

On the deck: how they perform

I used these over the course of a weekend on:
- Wet pressure-treated southern yellow pine (new install)
- Capped composite (replacement of a few courses)
- A small ipe landing repair

Here’s what stood out:
- They resist binding. The beveled edges slide into tight spots without prying the boards apart or compressing fibers.
- Removal is easy. The ring grip meant a quick tug pulled them free after fastening, without leaving plastic streaks or getting stuck under screw heads.
- They don’t mar surfaces. Composite facings and hardwood edges came away clean—no scratches, no scuffs.

For the pine install, I used 1/8 inch (orange) to account for expected shrinkage; in hot, humid conditions, I might bump to 5/32 inch (red) if the boards seem drier than “fresh from the yard.” On the composite deck, 5/32 inch matched the manufacturer’s mid-range recommendation, and the spacers made it brainless to keep that spec across the run. For the ipe, I went 1/4 inch (green) to prioritize drainage and debris clearance.

Quantity and workflow

Twenty-four spacers is a practical number. On 16-inch centers with a 12-foot board, you’ll likely hit 9–10 joists. Using two spacers per joist (left and right of the screw line) means you can set an entire course from end to end without leapfrogging—and you’ll still have a few extras on hand. If your joists are 12-inch on center or you prefer three spacers per bay for very wide or unruly boards, you may occasionally need to shuffle a few as you move down the line, but the set still keeps a comfortable rhythm going.

Pro tip: keep each size grouped on a small carabiner or zip tie. The color coding is great, but having them bundled avoids the pocket-dive shuffle.

Where they shine

• Straight, uniform spacing across long runs. The rings hold gaps reliably while you set fasteners without forcing you to babysit each joint.
• Color-coded speed. Grab the right size by color without second-guessing, especially helpful when bouncing between material types or running a mix of new and replacement boards.
• Gentle on materials. The rounded faces don’t chew into softwoods or mark synthetics.
• Ergonomic removal. The finger-friendly ring profile beats wrestling with flat shims.

Where they fall short

• They’re not wedges or board benders. If a board is bowed or the line is fighting you, these won’t pull it into place. You’ll still need clamps, a board straightener, or a joist hook tool.
• Plastic has limits. While durable for normal use, don’t expect them to survive being trapped under a screw head or crushed under a heavy lever. Also, avoid leaving them in direct sun for long periods mid-summer; like any plastic, warmth can make them a touch more flexible.
• Small enough to drop. The ring design is easy to handle, but on open framing it’s still possible to launch one between joists if you get careless. A lanyard or wrist loop helps if you’re working above high spans.

Best practices for choosing sizes

• Pressure-treated lumber (wet): 1/8 inch (orange) often works well; go 5/32 inch (red) in humid climates or if boards feel drier than typical.
• Composite/PVC: Follow the manufacturer’s spec; 1/8–3/16 inch is common. The 5/32 inch red spacer is a nice sweet spot.
• Dense hardwoods (ipe, cumaru): 1/4 inch (green) promotes drainage and airflow, especially in shaded areas.
• Debris-heavy sites or shaded decks: 5/16 inch (yellow) can reduce gunk accumulation between boards and encourage faster drying.

No spacer can compensate for poor prep. Start with a square reference board, snap a chalk line, and check for joist crowning. Use two spacers at each bay to keep boards from skewing. Remove spacers before setting your final screw on each bay so you’re not pinching plastic into a joint.

Durability over a project

After two long days of use—sun, sawdust, and the occasional boot step—the rings still measured true and showed minimal edge wear. They resisted nicks and didn’t fray at the corners. I gave a few a mild twist to see if they’d whiten or crack; they flexed and returned. I’d expect them to last through multiple decks if you don’t abuse them with clamps or trap them under fasteners.

Value and alternatives

Ring-style spacers like these hit a sweet spot: faster and less fussy than improvised shims, simpler than adjustable wedges, and more comfortable to remove than flat tabs. If you frequently fight bowed boards, a wedge-style spacer can double as a gentle persuader, but it’s not as precise for consistent gaps. For hidden fastener systems with built-in spacing, you’ll need these less—but they’re still useful when replacing single boards or setting picture-frame edges where the system doesn’t reach.

Given the variety of sizes, the quantity, and how consistently they hold a gap, this set is a good value compared to name-brand equivalents.

Bottom line and recommendation

SiliFine’s deck spacer rings do exactly what I need on a deck install: they set accurate, repeatable gaps, they’re quick to place and pull, and they don’t damage material. The color coding speeds up workflow, the plastic is sturdy enough for real jobsite abuse, and the 24-count set is sufficient to run an entire course without leapfrogging.

I recommend these spacers for DIYers and pros who want a straightforward, dependable way to maintain uniform deck gaps across wood, composite, and hardwood projects. If you’re looking for a tool to pull bowed boards into alignment, you’ll still need a board bender or clamps—but for spacing, these are a simple, well-executed solution that improve results with almost no learning curve.