DeWalt 8" Diagonal Pliers with Prying Tip

Why I reached for these cutters

On jobs where I’m bouncing between trimming cable ties, popping the odd staple, and snipping light-gauge fasteners in tight quarters, I like having one tool that can do a little bit of everything without turning into a brick on my belt. That’s exactly why I started carrying these 8-inch diagonal pliers. The low-profile head and integrated prying tip promised real utility in cramped spaces—think behind electrical boxes, between joists, and under toe kicks—without needing to pull a second tool.

After several weeks of daily use, I’ve formed a clear picture of what these pliers do well and where they come up short.

Build and ergonomics

At 8 inches and roughly 0.7 pounds, they’re compact enough for a pouch but substantial enough to inspire confidence. The cutting edges are induction hardened, and the overall build is fully hardened CRV steel. Out of the package, the pivot was a tad tight but settled in after a day. The head profile is genuinely low, with a gently tapered nose and a beveled lower cutting edge that lets you nip close to surfaces.

The bi-material handles provide good initial grip with a moderate palm swell. After a couple of longer days, though, I noticed the handle sleeves start to rotate a hair under heavy squeeze—nothing catastrophic at first, but enough to be noticeable when you’re really bearing down. It’s the tradeoff with many rubber-over-steel designs: comfortable dampening versus long-term slip resistance. If you plan on heavy, repeated hard cuts, consider adding a short section of heat-shrink tubing or a wrap to lock the sleeves in place.

Leverage feels appropriate for an 8-inch cutter, but the handles are on the slimmer side. When cutting tougher material, I could feel a bit of flex in the handles and very slight jaw deflection—again, typical for a lightweight diagonal plier, but something to keep in mind if you’re expecting lineman-level force.

Cutting performance

The blades came well aligned and sharp. On copper conductors up to 10–12 AWG, they slice cleanly without mashing. Aluminum trim, light-gauge sheet, and coax jacket cuts are easy and predictable. Romex staples, finishing nails, brads, and drywall screws (non-hardened) are also manageable if you cut near the joint to maximize leverage.

The lower cutting edge is the standout: it truly allows near-flush trims of zip ties, speaker wire, and cable ends. “Near” is the operative word—you’re not getting a perfect flush cut like a dedicated end nipper, but you can get close enough that nothing snags skin or sleeves. On trim work, that matters.

On hardened nails, fencing wire, or piano wire, these are not the right tool. I tested a handful of ring-shank roofing nails and some hardened wire; the cutters struggled and threatened to nick. The induction-hardened edges held up well to reasonable tasks and showed no rolling or microchipping with typical electrical and carpentry use. Resist the urge to twist while cutting; straight, decisive cuts preserve the edge and the pivot.

The prying tip: more than a gimmick, within limits

The integrated prying tip is what sets these apart. It’s essentially a thin, hardened extension of the lower jaw shaped to slide under staple crowns and small brad heads. In soft woods—pine and poplar in particular—it sneaks under narrow crown staples with minimal scarring if you rock the pliers sideways, not upward. For electrical staples, it’s quick and saves a walk back to the truck for a dedicated puller.

Where it tops out is deeply buried or wide staples, and anything sunk into hardwood. You can get them moving, but you’ll risk marring the surface or twisting the tool past its happy place. For demo days or stubborn fasteners, a small cat’s paw or dedicated staple puller is still faster and safer. Used within its design window, though, the prying tip genuinely cuts down on tool swaps and speeds up punch-list tasks.

Working in tight spaces

The low-profile head earns its keep in junction boxes and behind appliances. I used these to trim thermostat wire flush against a wall plate without chewing the finish, and to nip cable ties inside a crowded breaker panel without nicking nearby insulation. The short nose also helps reach between joists to cut PEX zip ties—a simple task that can be maddening with bulkier cutters.

One note: because the lower cutting edge sits close to the surface you’re trimming against, it’s worth keeping a plastic shim or a putty knife handy if the finish is delicate. A quick slip of the jaw can leave a small witness mark on painted trim.

Durability and maintenance

Edge retention has been good. After several weeks of mixed use (mostly copper, aluminum, staples, and light nails), the edges still meet cleanly without daylight. The finish shrugged off incidental moisture—no orange bloom after a damp day in a crawlspace—though I wipe tools down at the end of the day and add a drop of oil to the pivot once a week.

My only durability concern is the handle sleeves under heavy force. On a long day of cutting up copper ground wire and coax, the sleeves crept a bit more than I’d like. If you routinely cut toward the upper capacity of what an 8-inch diagonal can handle, you’ll feel the handles flex and may want a beefier cutter. For lighter, repetitive cutting, these stay comfortable without hotspots.

As with any diagonal plier, don’t attempt to regrind the cutting faces unless you know what you’re doing. A light hone at the very edge is fine; significant reshaping will throw off the alignment and bite. Keep cuts square, avoid twisting, and store them closed to protect the edges.

Standards and specs that matter

These cutters align with DIN ISO 5749 for diagonal pliers, which shows in the blade geometry and the balance between nose access and cutting leverage. At 8 inches long and roughly 320 grams, they hit a sweet spot for EDC in electrical and finish carpentry roles. The manufacturer lists aluminum among suitable materials, which matches my experience; they are not intended for cutting hardened steel. A one-year limited warranty is standard fare for a hand tool in this class.

What I’d change

• Lock the grips: A more aggressively bonded or mechanically locked handle sleeve would inspire extra confidence for heavy cuts.
• Slightly thicker handles: A touch more steel or an ergonomic tweak could reduce perceived flex and improve high-force comfort without adding much weight.
• Protective cap or edge guard: A simple guard in the packaging would help keep the cutting edges crisp in a crowded tool bag.

Who these pliers suit best

• Electricians and low-voltage techs who live in tight spaces and value one tool that can cut and pry light staples.
• Finish carpenters and installers trimming brads, zip ties, and soft metal fasteners, especially where near-flush cuts matter.
• DIYers who want a compact, do-most-things cutter for household projects without carrying separate nippers and a staple puller.

Who should look elsewhere: Anyone regularly cutting hardened materials, doing heavy demo, or who simply wants maximum leverage and zero flex. For that, a larger or more robust diagonal cutter—or lineman’s plier—will serve you better.

Recommendation

I recommend these diagonal pliers with clear caveats. They’re a smart, compact choice for everyday electrical and finish tasks, with a genuinely useful low-profile head and an integrated prying tip that cuts down on tool swapping. The edges hold up well on appropriate materials and the near-flush lower cutting edge makes tidy work of zip ties and soft wire. However, if your work routinely involves high-force cuts or stubborn fasteners, the slim handles and rotating grip sleeves can be a frustration, and you’ll feel the tool’s limits sooner than with a heavier-duty cutter.

If your priority is tight-access utility and clean cuts in light to medium materials, these earn a spot in the pouch. If you need brute strength and absolute handle stability, consider a more robust diagonal or a lineman’s plier instead.