Plank Rite Steel Deck Spacing and Fastening Tool 2 Pack for Use with 5-1/2 Inch Deck Boards | Works for Treated Wood or Composite Decking | Deck Jig for Professional Neat Finish | Made in USA

Why this little jig earned a spot in my deck kit

On a recent composite deck build, I used the Plank Rite jig to set gaps and keep screw rows laser straight. It turned a task I usually micro-manage—spacing boards and aligning fasteners—into something repeatable and fast. A few weeks later I put it back to work on a pressure-treated rehab and came away with the same impression: for face-screwed 5-1/2 inch decking, this tool removes guesswork, keeps you moving, and produces a neat, consistent finish.

Design and build

The Plank Rite jig is a steel spacer with two working faces: a 1/8-inch side for wood and a 3/16-inch side for composite. That split aligns with common manufacturer recommendations, and it’s useful not just for compliance but for performance—wood needs tighter gaps to avoid excessive shrinkage, while composite benefits from a bit more airflow and debris clearance.

Because it’s steel, it has two advantages over the plastic spacers I’ve used in the past:
- It doesn’t flex or deform when you persuade a stubborn board.
- You can tap it with a hammer without worrying you’ll mushroom or shatter it.

The tool also includes integrated screw and nail guides. These are simply holes positioned a consistent distance from each board edge, which means every fastener lands in the same spot across the field. That small detail makes a big difference in the finished look.

The set comes as a two-pack. Two is enough to work steadily by yourself, but if you have a long run or want to leapfrog faster across multiple joists, you’ll move even quicker with four or six in rotation.

In use: composite decking

I started the test on a composite deck where face-screws were specified. With the 3/16-inch side against the previous board, the jig set a uniform gap every time. I placed one at each joist along the next board, used the guides to pre-start screws, and moved down the line. Even without snapping chalk lines, the screw rows sighted dead straight because the guides keep the distance from the board edge consistent.

A couple of practical notes:
- Composite gap requirements vary by brand and climate, often 3/16 to 1/4 inch. The 3/16 side fits most specs, but check the manufacturer guidance for your product and temperature at install.
- If you do tap the jig to nudge a board, put a small piece of painter’s tape or a wood block buffer between the steel and the composite edge to avoid scuffing the surface.

I also like the weight. The jig sits firmly on the board rather than bouncing around, and it’s stiff enough to nudge a slightly bowed board outward to meet the gap. For bigger corrections you’ll still want a board-bending tool to pull a board in; the Plank Rite is great at pushing, not pulling.

In use: pressure-treated wood

On the rehab project with wet PT 5/4x6, I flipped to the 1/8-inch side. Wood moves a lot more as it dries, so starting tighter helps keep your finished gaps from growing too wide. The jig again kept screws aligned and spacing consistent, but this is where I noticed a minor limitation. The “leg” on the 1/8-inch side—the small flange that registers on the board edge—feels a touch short if you’re dealing with cupped or crowned boards. It still works, but a little more depth would give you more bite when boards fight you.

Even so, the steel construction let me tap the jig between a couple of reluctant boards to open the joint. With treated lumber, I recommend checking alignment every five or six boards to make sure cumulative variation hasn’t crept in, especially if the stock is inconsistent. The tool minimizes that drift, but measuring diagonals and occasionally pulling a string line is just good deck practice.

Speed and workflow

The Plank Rite jig speeds up two things:
1) Setting accurate gaps without shims, wedges, or extra measuring.
2) Laying out screws without chalking joists.

My workflow looked like this:
- Dry-fit the next board.
- Drop a jig at each joist.
- Pre-start screws through the guide holes.
- Confirm the board is centered over joists.
- Run the screws, remove the jigs, and slide them down to the next joist bay.

If you have a helper, give them a pair to leapfrog ahead placing spacers and pre-starting screws. On a big deck, adding an extra pair (or two) keeps everyone productive and the pattern perfectly repeatable.

Accuracy and finish quality

The standout benefit is uniformity. Consistent gaps help drainage, reduce debris traps, and simply look tidy. The screw guides prevent wandering patterns—each head lands the same distance from both edges, which is immediately noticeable when you sight across the field or look down the length of a board run.

If you’re used to drilling freehand with a combo square as a reference, you’ll be surprised how much cleaner the result looks when every fastener is indexed off the same jig. It’s the kind of uniformity you appreciate long after the build is done.

Durability and maintenance

Steel is the right call here. I’ve ruined plastic spacers by prying boards and by tapping them when a board needed a nudge. The Plank Rite jig tolerates that abuse. The trade-off with steel is potential surface rust if you leave it wet. Mine got damp a few times and I wiped them down at the end of the day. If you want them to stay pristine, store them dry and give them a quick spritz of light oil between projects.

Edges on mine were clean, but any steel jig can arrive with a burr. If you feel a sharp edge, a couple passes with a file takes it off. Gloves are never a bad idea when you’re pushing and tapping around sawdust, screws, and steel.

Limitations and what it’s not for

• Board width: It’s sized for 6-inch nominal decking (5-1/2 inches actual). It won’t register properly on narrower decking.
• Hidden fasteners: If you’re using grooved boards with clip systems, you won’t need the screw guides, and many clip systems set their own gap. You could still use it purely as a spacer on picture frames or square-edge boards, but it shines in face-screw applications.
• Severe bows or twists: The jig can push a board outward to open a gap, but it’s not a substitute for a dedicated board bender when you need to pull a stubborn board tight.
• Variable manufacturer specs: The 1/8 and 3/16 settings cover a lot of installs, but in extreme temps or for specific composites, your required spacing might differ. Confirm before you commit.

Tips to get the most from it

• Use enough jigs: Two will work, but four or six make a longer run smoother and faster.
• Pre-drill hardwoods: In dense species or near board ends, use the guide holes to pre-drill. It prevents splits and keeps screws true.
• Buffer on composites: If you’re tapping the jig to adjust a board, protect composite edges with a thin block or tape.
• Check square periodically: The jig controls local spacing; a quick diagonal check every few courses ensures the deck stays square overall.

Value

This is a simple tool that meaningfully improves both speed and finish quality. The steel construction justifies itself the first time you use it to persuade a board or drop it on the concrete without consequence. It’s not flashy, but it executes two core tasks—spacing and fastener layout—consistently well. For anyone who face-screws 5-1/2 inch decking with any regularity, it earns its spot.

Recommendation

I recommend the Plank Rite jig for builders and DIYers installing 5-1/2 inch treated or composite decking with face screws. It delivers consistent gaps, cleaner screw patterns, and faster workflow, and the steel build holds up to real jobsite use. Be aware of the limitations—best on 5-1/2 inch boards, not intended for hidden fasteners, and only a modest help on severely bowed stock—but within its wheelhouse it performs exactly as advertised. If you’re aiming for a neater deck surface with less fuss, this tool is a smart, durable addition to your kit.