Starborn Deckfast Fascia Screws 9 x 1-7/8" Stainless Steel Fascia Screws - 100 Pieces Matches AZEK DECKING

Why these screws earned a spot in my fascia kit

On PVC and composite decks, fascia boards are notorious for moving with temperature swings. I’ve seen perfectly straight skirts ripple and pop after a season because the wrong fasteners locked the board in place. After using the Deckfast fascia screws on a couple of recent installs—one with AZEK-style PVC fascia and another with a composite fascia—I’m convinced they address that problem better than typical deck screws.

Build and design

The screws are stainless steel with a dark gray, color-matched finish. The head coating is even and consistent—no thick paint ridges that can chip off under the bit. They use a T-20 star drive and a Type 17 auger tip. At 1-7/8 inches long, they’re sized well for 3/8–3/4 inch fascia into structural framing, delivering solid bite without risking blow-through or protrusion at the back of thinner rim boards.

The head geometry is purpose-built for fascia: wide enough to spread load without a bulky washer look, and shallow enough to sit neatly into the countersink created by the matching fascia tool. The stainless steel resists corrosion and staining—a must around ground-level decks, pools, and anywhere fascia is catching splashback.

Installation experience

I used these with the brand’s fascia tool, which I consider part of the system. The tool pre-drills a stepped, slightly oversized hole with a clean countersink and a built-in depth stop. That oversized hole is the magic: it lets the fascia board expand and contract around the shank while the head stays seated. Without it, even a good stainless screw can pinch the board and lead to cupping or waves later.

Driving was drama-free. The Type 17 tip starts easily without wandering, even into dense, treated rim joists. Near board ends, I still pre-drilled to be safe, but I didn’t see any splitting in framing when I let the auger tip do its thing. The T-20 star recess gives a snug fit; I didn’t experience cam-out or chewed heads.

A couple of technique notes that helped:
- Set your drill/driver clutch lower than you think and bump it up slowly. Stainless is softer than coated steel; you want firm seating, not brute force.
- Stop as soon as the head meets the countersink. Overdriving defeats the purpose of the slip zone and can crack the fascia surface.
- If you’re not using the dedicated fascia tool, at least pre-drill and slightly oversize the pilot in the fascia, then standard pilot in the framing.

Spacing these about 12–16 inches on-center kept thin fascia flat and well supported. At corners and butt joints, I added an extra screw within a couple of inches of the end to keep miters tight.

Performance and appearance

A big test for fascia fasteners is spring and fall—those shoulder seasons where boards move the most. After a few months on one PVC fascia job, the runs stayed flat, and the miters didn’t open or smile. The screws stayed seated without telegraphing fastener locations through the board face.

The dark gray head color blended nicely with the fascia tones I used. It’s not “invisible,” but it reads clean and intentional, especially compared to bright stainless dots. On a mid-tone gray PVC skirt, I had to look closely to spot them. The finish held up to driver contact; a few heads picked up tiny ring marks, but I didn’t see flaking or rust shadows.

Grip-wise, the threads bite confidently into treated framing. Pull-out resistance felt strong, and I didn’t have any heads snap, even on a chilly morning. Still, stainless benefits from moderate speed and steady pressure—let the bit do the work rather than hammering the trigger.

Compatibility and color match

These are positioned for PVC and composite fascia, and I’d agree that’s where they shine. They also work fine on wood fascia, but the system’s real value is managing expansion and contraction on synthetics. Color-wise, the dark gray match complemented AZEK-style grays and several composite brands I’ve used. If you’re working with very light or very dark boards, you may prefer a different head color to blend better. For mixed runs or custom colors, I keep a small test board to check the match before committing.

Ergonomics and bit life

T-20 star drive is a smart choice here. It provides more contact area than Phillips or square drives, and I had solid control even when driving one-handed on a ladder. I cycled through a couple of T-20 bits over two jobs; star bits are consumables, but wear was reasonable. I didn’t notice raised burrs in the recess or head wobble as the day went on, which tells me the recess machining is consistent.

Durability and corrosion resistance

Stainless is the right call for fascia, where moisture and splashback are constant. I can’t speak to multi-year coastal exposure with this specific screw, but stainless plus a baked-on head coating is a combination that’s served me well around pools and damp sites. If you work in salt air, it’s worth confirming the stainless grade you require before you stock up, or stepping up to a marine-grade option if your environment demands it.

Limitations and cautions

• These screws are part of a system. To really unlock their benefit, use the fascia tool or replicate its oversized pilot and consistent countersink. Skipping that step turns them into ordinary screws, which defeats the purpose.
• Color matching is “close enough” across a lot of brands, but not perfect on every profile. Check against your fascia before committing to a full run.
• Price is higher than generic deck screws. You’re paying for stainless, the finish, and a proven installation method. On a budget build with wood fascia, you might not need them.
• Don’t overdrive. Stainless is less forgiving; if you bury the head, you risk a halo or a crushed surface on PVC.

Tips for best results

• Pre-drill with the fascia tool, keep the clutch modest, and stop when the head kisses the countersink.
• Fastener layout: 12–16 inches on-center, with extra support at corners, butt joints, and around curve transitions.
• Leave proper gaps per your fascia manufacturer at end joints and inside/outside corners. The fastener allows movement, but you still need space to move into.
• Install at mid-range temperatures when possible; if you install during temperature extremes, err the gap slightly in the direction of expected movement.
• Keep a clean T-20 bit and replace it at the first sign of wobble to protect the head finish.

Value and who it’s for

A 100-count box is a sensible quantity for small to medium projects or repairs. For a typical 12x16 deck with a full fascia skirt, expect to need more than one box, depending on spacing and board height. If your work includes PVC or composite fascia with visible fasteners, these are worth stocking. For hidden-fascia systems or wood-only builds, you may opt for a different approach.

The bottom line

The Deckfast fascia screws do exactly what I want a fascia fastener to do: install cleanly, stay put, and let the board move without telegraphing issues later. The T-20 drive and Type 17 tip make day-of installation smooth, the stainless build keeps stains and rust at bay, and the color-matched heads look tidy against modern gray fascias.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone installing PVC or composite fascia, especially if you pair them with the matching fascia tool. They provide a controlled, repeatable installation that respects how synthetic fascia behaves over time. If you’re after a clean look that stays flat through the seasons, these screws are a reliable, thoughtfully designed choice.