Bosch U-Shank jig saw blades (for wood)

Where these blades make sense

I keep an older U‑shank jigsaw on the shelf for rough carpentry, quick cutouts, and jobs where maneuverability beats table‑saw precision. Finding good blades for it can be a chore. These U101BF wood blades slot neatly into that niche: a bi‑metal, ground/taper‑ground option aimed at clean edges in wood, plywood, and laminates. After several weeks of use across plywood cabinetry, laminated particleboard shelves, and a handful of plastic cutouts, I have a clear picture of where these blades excel and where they ask for some technique.

Design and compatibility

First, the basics. These are U‑shank blades, so they’ll only fit jigsaws that accept U‑shank. If your saw is T‑shank only (as many modern ones are), this isn’t your blade. Within the U‑shank ecosystem, they seat securely and true in my older saws, and I had no fitment issues.

The 4‑inch length gives you a practical cutting depth of around 2–2 1/2 inches, depending on your saw’s shoe and stroke. Tooth pitch is 10 TPI, and the teeth are ground with a taper that narrows the blade’s kerf and polishes the cut. The bi‑metal construction combines a hard tooth edge for wear resistance with a flexible back that resists snapping—very helpful for curve cuts and awkward plunge starts.

Setup and test materials

I ran these blades through:
- 3/4‑inch birch plywood for shelving and cabinet backs
- 5/8‑inch laminated particleboard (melamine‑faced)
- 1‑inch oak and maple offcuts
- 1/4‑inch acrylic and PVC sheet

I worked at various orbital settings, from zero (for finish cuts) to mid‑range (for speed), and experimented with feed rates to gauge tear‑out and tracking.

Cutting performance in wood and plywood

In plywood, these blades are nimble and leave a convincingly clean edge. With orbital set to zero or one and a steady feed, top‑side tear‑out was minimal—certainly less than most general‑purpose jigsaw blades. On veneered birch, I still pre‑taped the cutline and scored it with a knife for fussy show faces, but for interior panels and shelves, the cut came off the saw ready for a light pass with 220‑grit.

In solid hardwoods, the 10 TPI grind trades a bit of speed for surface finish. On 1‑inch oak and maple, the blades tracked straight if I let the blade do the work and avoided over‑pushing. Aggressive feed pressure invites deflection; ease off, and the kerf stays square. For anything thicker than about 1 1/4 inches, I’d switch to a heavier, lower‑TPI blade designed for deep cuts, but up to that mark these held their line better than most flexible U‑shank options I’ve used.

Laminates and melamine

Laminated particleboard, melamine especially, is a tear‑out test for any jigsaw. Here, the taper‑ground teeth help. With the orbital action off, slow stroke speed, and painter’s tape on the show side, I got crisp edges on both the melamine face and the core. There was still the occasional micro‑chip at the exit edge on tight curves, which is common for non‑reverse blades. If pristine show‑face edges are mission critical, cut with the show face down, or consider a reverse‑tooth blade for that final pass. For shelf notches, closet cutouts, and cabinet backs, these did the job cleanly and predictably.

Plastics: workable with the right approach

These blades are rated for plastics, and they can handle thin acrylic and PVC, but technique matters. At 10 TPI, friction heat is a risk if you run too fast. I set the jigsaw to low speed, turned off orbital action, and used a shallow feed. A bit of painter’s tape over the cutline helped, and I occasionally paused to let things cool. Under those conditions, edges were clean without melting. If you routinely cut thicker acrylic, a finer‑tooth blade would be the better primary choice, but in a mixed‑materials pinch, these work fine.

Control, curves, and tracking

Taper‑ground teeth and a relatively narrow kerf let these blades turn tighter curves than many “fast” wood blades. For scribing along a wall or cutting sink cutouts, I could steer accurately without chatter. The flip side of that slender cut is potential deflection in thicker stock when the blade heats up. The bi‑metal back helps; it flexes instead of snapping when twisted. In real use, I noticed less tendency to break at the shank under lateral loads compared to plain carbon‑steel U‑shank blades. The price of that durability is still the usual: respect the feed rate and don’t steer the blade from the shoe—steer from the feed hand and let the teeth bite at their own pace.

Cut quality and finishing

• Top‑side tear‑out in plywood: Low at low orbital settings, very manageable with tape/score.
• Edge smoothness in hardwood: Good; ready for a light sand.
• Entry/exit chip‑out in melamine: Minor with the right blade settings; best results with show face down or a backer.
• Curve fidelity: Solid, with limited drift when avoiding over‑feed.
• Surface burn: None in wood when moving at a reasonable pace; plastics require slower speed to avoid melting.

The tooth geometry earns its keep. It doesn’t perform miracles in the toughest laminates, but it definitely lifts the finish into “cabinet‑adjacent” territory for jigsaw work.

Durability and blade life

Bi‑metal shows its value over time. Cutting resinous plywood and melamine usually dulls teeth fast; here, the wear curve felt slower than with high‑carbon steel blades. After multiple sheets of birch ply and a few melamine cuts, the first blade was still producing acceptable edges, though the initial “polished” finish softened a bit. I didn’t experience tooth breakage or mid‑blade snaps. The flexible back also survived a couple of unplanned blade binds without deforming at the shank—common failure points for cheaper blades.

As always, feed pressure is the blade’s worst enemy. Keep the shoe flat, reduce orbital action for finish cuts, and let the teeth clear dust. If you’re ripping long straight lines in thick hardwood, this isn’t the blade; use a lower‑TPI, thicker profile. But for the intended tasks, life per blade was respectable, and the multi‑pack format makes sense for a shop that leans on a jigsaw regularly.

Practical tips for best results

• Plywood and veneer: Zero or low orbital, moderate speed, painter’s tape on the cutline; score the veneer for show faces.
• Melamine/laminate: Show face down when possible, use a backer at exits, low orbital, slow feed.
• Plastics: Low speed, no orbital, intermittent cuts to manage heat; support the work to prevent vibration.
• Curves: Avoid forcing the radius; make relief cuts in tight corners.
• Tracking: Let the blade self‑feed and keep the shoe square to minimize bevel drift.

Value and limitations

Within the shrinking world of U‑shank accessories, these blades feel like a premium option aimed at cleaner finishes rather than brute speed. The main limitation is compatibility; if your jigsaw takes only T‑shank blades, look for the equivalent T‑shank pattern from the same family. The 10 TPI grind also isn’t a one‑blade‑does‑everything solution. Pair it with a coarser wood blade for fast roughing and a finer tooth option for frequent plastic work. That said, if your priority is clean cuts in sheet goods and you’re still running a U‑shank saw, this sits in the sweet spot.

Recommendation

I recommend these U‑shank wood blades for anyone maintaining an older jigsaw and needing clean, controlled cuts in plywood, softwoods, hardwood up to about an inch, and occasional laminate or plastic. The bi‑metal build holds up under everyday shop use, the ground/taper‑ground teeth noticeably reduce tear‑out, and the blades track well when you resist over‑feeding. They’re not the fastest cutters, and they’re not ideal for deep hardwood, but for cabinetry panels, shelf cutouts, scribing, and finish‑oriented jigsaw tasks, they deliver consistent, tidy results. If your saw accepts U‑shank and you value edge quality over outright speed, these belong in your blade drawer.