Skil Carbide Straight Router Bit Set - 3 Piece

A straightforward set that earns its keep

I reach for straight bits constantly—dados for shelves, mortises for hardware, hogging out waste for inlays, and quick rabbets. A three-piece set that lives in the router drawer and just works is more valuable than a fancy assortment I’m afraid to use. That’s where the Skil straight bit set fits in for me: basic sizes, carbide-tipped, and ready to tackle everyday routing without fuss.

What’s in the set

The set includes three two-flute straight bits with 1/4-inch shanks: 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 inch diameters. All three are carbide-tipped with heat-treated bodies and come in a simple plastic case. The sizes cover a lot of ground:

• 1/4-inch: mortises for hardware, keyholes (with a template), and cleaning out tight corners.
• 1/2-inch: general-purpose dado and groove work, rabbets, and flattening small areas after roughing.
• 3/4-inch: shelf dados in 3/4-inch sheet goods and rapid stock removal for jigs and fixtures.

The case isn’t glamorous, but it protects the edges and keeps the set together. Mine snaps closed securely and rides in a drawer without dumping the bits out. That’s all I need from storage.

Setup and compatibility

These bits are made for 1/4-inch collets. They drop right into trim routers and most full-size routers that ship with both 1/2- and 1/4-inch collets. If your router only has a 1/2-inch collet, use the proper 1/4-inch collet rather than a sleeve adapter for better concentricity.

I had no trouble seating the shanks fully and getting a solid grip. All three spun true in my compact trim router and in a full-size fixed-base router. If you plan to push the 3/4-inch bit hard, the full-size router gives you more stability and torque.

Cut quality

Cut quality is the reason to buy carbide straight bits, and these deliver clean, predictable results in typical shop tasks. The two-flute design balances chip clearance and surface finish. Here’s what I saw:

• Softwoods (pine, fir): crisp edges with minimal fuzz. I could take a 1/4-inch-deep pass at a steady feed without burning.
• Plywood and MDF: clean walls and flat bottoms. To protect veneer, I like a light scoring pass of about 1/32 inch with a climb cut, then a final pass in the conventional direction. These bits handled that method well.
• Hardwoods (maple, oak): good results with conservative depth and speed. I kept the 3/4-inch bit to shallow passes to avoid chatter.

Compared with spiral upcut bits, straight bits tend to leave slightly more fuzz on plywood edges, and you’ll get a fractionally less polished wall in end grain. That’s normal. For drawer grooves, shelf dados, and general joinery, the finish here is perfectly serviceable.

Performance across materials

I ran the 1/4-inch bit through poplar and maple for small mortises and used it to clean inlay pockets after a forstner bit. The edges stayed sharp over several sessions, even in MDF, which is notoriously abrasive. The 1/2-inch bit became my go-to for 1/2-inch dados in plywood; paired with a straightedge, it produced consistent widths, and the bottom of the cut measured flat with a straightedge.

The 3/4-inch bit is the most demanding in a 1/4-inch shank. In a trim router, I limited passes to 1/8 inch and reduced the speed slightly. In a full-size router, I could push to about 3/16 inch per pass without drama. The takeaway: the bit will do the work, but your setup matters. With adequate router power, reasonable depth of cut, and a steady feed, it tracks well.

Heat and chip evacuation

Straight bits don’t clear chips as aggressively as spirals, so your technique matters. With the 3/4-inch bit, chip evacuation is the limiting factor more than the carbide edge. Two habits help:

• Use dust collection or a vac near the cut. Keeping chips out reduces heat and prevents re-cutting.
• Take multiple passes and keep the bit moving. Dwelling in one spot invites burning, especially in resinous softwoods.

I noticed a hint of burn on the 1/2-inch bit when I paused at the end of a cut in fir. A slightly faster feed and a clean sweep off the workpiece eliminated it.

Durability and maintenance

Out of the box, the cutting edges on my set were cleanly ground. The 1/2-inch bit had a minuscule burr on the back of one flute that disappeared after the first pass in scrap. After a handful of small projects—two plywood cabinets, a maple shelf with mortised brackets, and a couple of shop jigs—the edges remain sharp enough to slice paper-thin shavings off end grain without tearing.

As with any carbide, abrasive materials (MDF, melamine) shorten edge life faster than solid hardwood. I clean the bits with a resin remover after each session and give the faces a light touch with a fine diamond card. That quick routine keeps performance consistent. You can have straight bits sharpened, but at this price point I treat them as consumables after a couple of sharpenings.

Where they shine

• Everyday joinery: Dados, grooves, rabbets, and mortises cut true and to size. The diameters are accurate enough that a 3/4-inch bit gives a snug shelf dado in nominal 3/4-inch sheet goods after a test pass.
• Trim routers and small setups: The 1/4-inch shank is ideal for compact routers where 1/2-inch shanks aren’t an option.
• Value and convenience: Three core sizes cover most general routing tasks. Having all three matching bits in one case lowers the friction to get to work.

Where they fall short

• 3/4-inch bit on a 1/4-inch shank: You can absolutely use it, but it demands lighter passes and a steady hand. If you routinely cut full-depth shelf dados in hardwood, a 1/2-inch shank 3/4-inch bit is more confidence-inspiring.
• Plywood perfectionists: For near-zero tear-out in veneered plywood across the grain, a compression or downcut spiral will outshine any straight bit. These are good generalists, not specialized finishers.
• Limited assortment: Straight bits only. If you need bearings for template work or a wider array of diameters, you’ll be supplementing this set.

Tips for best results

• Mind your speeds: High RPM for the 1/4-inch bit (18,000–22,000), moderate for the 1/2-inch, and a touch slower for the 3/4-inch to manage heat.
• Take multiple passes: Especially with the 3/4-inch bit, keep pass depth to 1/8–3/16 inch in hardwoods.
• Prevent veneer tear-out: Score with a light climb pass first, then finish with a conventional pass. A sacrificial backer at exit points helps too.
• Keep them clean: Pitch build-up masquerades as dullness. A five-minute cleaning routine pays back in cut quality and tool life.
• Test cuts matter: Plywood thickness and veneer can vary. A quick test groove dials in fit without surprises.

The bottom line

This Skil straight bit set is a practical, no-nonsense trio that earns a spot in the router drawer. The carbide edges cut cleanly, the grinds are consistent, and the heat-treated bodies hold up to the everyday bumps and chucking that shop life brings. I like how predictable they are: clamp a straightedge, set depth, take sensible passes, and the joinery comes out the way it should.

They’re not a replacement for spiral bits when you need absolute best-in-class finish in finicky veneers, and I’d prefer a 1/2-inch shank on the 3/4-inch diameter for heavy work. But within their lane—general joinery in softwoods, hardwoods, and sheet goods—they perform reliably and without drama.

Recommendation: I recommend this set to hobbyists and pros who want a dependable, affordable trio of straight bits for everyday tasks, especially if you do a lot of work with a trim router or a router that primarily runs 1/4-inch shanks. If your work leans heavily on wide, deep cuts in hardwood or premium tear-out-free plywood edges, pair this set with a couple of spiral bits and, for the largest diameter, a 1/2-inch shank option. As a foundational set for routine routing, it’s a solid choice.