DeWalt Forced Air Kerosene Construction Heater (50,000 BTU/HR)

A compact blast of heat for cold jobsites

I put the DeWalt 50K kerosene torpedo heater to work through a string of below‑freezing mornings in a two‑car garage and on an outdoor slab pour. At 50,000 BTU, it sits at a sweet spot: small enough to carry solo, but strong enough to turn a frigid space into a workable environment in a few minutes. It’s a straightforward, single‑output, forced‑air unit that runs on multiple fuels and needs 115 V AC power for its fan and continuous spark ignition.

Setup and first fire

Out of the box, setup took about 10 minutes: install the handle, inspect the filters, fill the tank, and plug it in. The cord is short, so plan on an extension cord. Use a heavy‑gauge cord (12 AWG for runs up to 50 ft) to avoid voltage drop; this heater’s fan and spark need proper voltage, and a thin cord can cause nuisance shutdowns.

Once fueled, it primed quickly. The continuous electronic ignition clicks audibly—normal for this style—and the fan spools up to a steady whoosh. From cold start at 20 °F ambient in an attached, semi‑insulated garage, I measured about 10–12 minutes to take the space to the high 40s, and roughly 20–25 minutes to the low 60s. On an open patio, the heat stream is immediate and directional: stand in front of it and you’ll feel it right away, but obviously the ambient air temp won’t change without enclosure.

Heating performance

Fifty thousand BTU is honest output for a one‑ to two‑bay garage, small workshop, or jobsite trailer with good ventilation. If you’re trying to heat 1,200 square feet of poorly insulated space, expect it to take the edge off rather than recreate summer. For my use, one unit handled a 450–500 sq ft garage comfortably, and two units leap‑frogged along an outdoor concrete pour to keep the working area warm.

This is a single‑setting heater—full blast or off. There’s no thermostat on this model, so you’ll regulate temperature by cycling the unit yourself. That means some temperature swing and the possibility of overshooting in smaller rooms. I’d love a thermostat for set‑and‑forget operation; if that’s critical for you, look at a model that adds that feature.

Fuel choice and runtime

Multi‑fuel compatibility is the draw here: kerosene, #1/#2 diesel, #1/#2 fuel oil, and JP‑8/Jet A. I ran mostly K‑1 kerosene for cleaner burn and less odor, and tried #1 diesel for a few days. Observations:

• Kerosene: Easiest starts in the cold, least odor, cleanest flame.
• #1 diesel: Slightly more odor, a bit more soot on the nose cone and within the barrel after several hours, but still acceptable with good ventilation.
• #2 diesel: Works, but add anti‑gel in very cold weather and expect more odor.

With a full 4‑gallon tank, I averaged between 8–10 hours per fill depending on fuel and ambient temp. Fuel burn landed around half a gallon per hour in steady operation. With kerosene at current prices, that’s roughly $3–$4 per hour to run, which is competitive heat on short‑term jobs.

Noise and comfort

Forced‑air “torpedo” heaters aren’t subtle. On a meter, I saw upper‑70s to low‑80s dBA at three feet. Ear protection is a good idea for extended use in smaller spaces. The noise is a smooth fan roar plus the tick of the ignition. If you need whisper‑quiet, this style of heater isn’t the answer.

Airflow is strong and focused, which I prefer. Point the stream at the work area or bounce it off a wall to spread heat. Keep clearances: hot discharge air can trip the high‑temp safety if it recirculates into the intake.

Build quality and ergonomics

This heater feels jobsite‑ready. The steel housing is stout, and the recessed controls won’t snag or snap in a truck bed. The two‑piece split shell makes maintenance easy: remove a few screws and the upper half lifts off, granting direct access to filters, nozzle, and the photo‑cell. The handle is well placed and glove‑friendly.

Weight is the catch. Dry it’s about 70 lb, and a full tank adds roughly 28 lb, putting you near 100 lb when topped off. You can carry it solo, but you won’t love stairs with a full tank. There are no wheels, so plan accordingly.

Reliability and what to watch

Out of the gate, mine lit instantly and ran clean. I did have a morning where it ran for a few minutes, then shut down repeatedly. Three things fixed it:

1) Power: I swapped a light‑duty extension cord for a 12‑gauge cord. The problem disappeared—voltage drop can fool the flame sensor as the fan slows and mixture goes rich.
2) Fuel and filters: I drained questionable diesel, refilled with fresh kerosene, and checked the inlet and oil (air pump) filters. A dirty filter or water in fuel can cause flame‑out.
3) Photocell: I gently wiped the photo‑electric flame sensor lens. Soot on the lens makes the heater think the flame went out.

Since then it’s been steady. The safety system is appropriately protective: if flame quality dips, temperature spikes, or airflow is restricted, it shuts down rather than risking a flare‑out. That’s a good trade‑off on a jobsite heater, but it does mean you need to stay on top of fuel quality, power, and airflow.

Maintenance

Plan on light, regular maintenance if you run it hard:

• Keep fuel fresh; store kerosene in clean, sealed containers.
• Inspect and clean or replace the air and fuel filters per the manual.
• Wipe the photocell lens and check nozzle alignment periodically.
• Make sure the fuel cap vent is clear to prevent vacuum lock.
• Inspect the spark gap annually.

The split‑barrel design genuinely helps here; you won’t dread opening it up.

Safety and ventilation

Forced‑air liquid‑fuel heaters produce exhaust. Use it outdoors or in well‑ventilated spaces only, and add a CO monitor if you’re anywhere near enclosed. Keep combustibles away from the discharge, run on a level surface, and give the intake plenty of breathing room. There’s a high‑temperature shutoff and a flame sensor onboard, but they complement safe practices—they don’t replace them.

One note: when you switch it off, the fan stops with the flame. There’s no cool‑down fan cycle on this model. I’d like to see a timed fan coast‑down to move residual heat and cool the barrel, but in practice the unit cools quickly enough with the shell design.

What I’d change

• Add a thermostat option: Even a simple dial thermostat would smooth temperature swings and save fuel.
• Include a cool‑down fan cycle: It’s easier on components and more comfortable in small spaces.
• Offer a wheel kit: At nearly 100 lb fueled, wheels would be welcome for longer moves.

Who it’s for

• Great for trades who need dependable, portable heat in ventilated jobsites, garages, and outbuildings.
• Ideal spot heater for concrete work, paint prep (in well‑ventilated conditions), and cold starts on equipment.
• Less ideal for folks who want silent, odor‑free heat or set‑and‑forget temperature control; consider electric or vented heaters in those cases.

The bottom line

The DeWalt 50K kerosene torpedo heater is a rugged, no‑nonsense heat source that starts easily, pushes a strong column of air, and runs on the fuels you’re likely to have on hand. Its build quality, recessed controls, and split‑shell maintenance access feel thoughtfully executed for jobsite abuse. It’s loud, it smells like a liquid‑fuel heater (less so on kerosene), and it lacks a thermostat and cool‑down cycle. Treat it to clean fuel, a proper extension cord, and routine filter/photocell care, and it rewards you with reliable heat.

Recommendation: I recommend it for pros and serious DIYers who need portable heat and can live with single‑speed operation. It’s a solid performer with sensible safety features and jobsite‑friendly serviceability. If you want thermostat control or quieter, fume‑free heating, look elsewhere; if you want straightforward, durable heat that just gets the job done, this model earns a spot on the truck.