Skil 9 IN. Metal Reciprocating Saw Blade

Overview

I put the Skil 9-inch metal blade through a mix of garage projects and jobsite odds-and-ends—cutting EMT conduit, angle iron, threaded rod, and the inevitable nails and screws buried in framing. It’s a bi-metal, 8–10 TPI blade sold in a five-pack and made in Switzerland, with claims of reduced vibration and straighter cuts. After a week of steady use, I have a pretty clear picture of where this blade shines, where it doesn’t, and who it makes sense for.

Build and Design

This is a classic bi-metal construction: a hard tooth edge electron-beam welded to a spring-steel backer. That formula typically balances tooth life with flexibility, which is exactly what you want in a recip blade that needs to survive side loads, pinch cuts, and heat. Out of the pack, the teeth are well formed and consistent. The backer steel has the right springiness—flexes without feeling chintzy—and the 9-inch length gives you reach for flush cuts and deeper materials, though any long blade will amplify user technique (good and bad).

The 8–10 TPI configuration is aimed squarely at metal. It’s a versatile pitch for mild steel pipe, threaded rod, and thicker profiles, but it’s not the right tooth count for thin sheet metal or green wood. The grind and set are conservative enough to avoid grabbing, yet aggressive enough to move chips and keep the cut from glazing over.

Setup and Compatibility

The blade dropped into every standard 1/2-inch universal shank saw I used. I ran it primarily in a Skil recip saw and swapped it into a well-used 18V model from another brand with no drama. If your saw has orbital action, keep it off for metal—this blade rewards steady, linear strokes and moderate feed pressure.

Cutting Performance in Metal

On EMT and thin-wall conduit, the blade starts easily without excessive chatter. The variable pitch helps reduce that “zinging” you get with uniform, coarser TPI. It doesn’t skate if you score a small starting notch, and it tracks true provided you let the shoe do the work. On 3/4-inch EMT and 1/2-inch black pipe, it made predictable, clean cuts without bluing the tips. I could feel heat building on extended cuts in thicker stock—1/8-inch angle iron, for example—but not to the point of killing the edge prematurely. A little cutting fluid or a lighter touch extends life, as always.

Threaded rod (3/8 and 1/2 inch) is often a good stress test, since it tends to vibrate and bind as you near the end. This blade stayed controlled, and the teeth didn’t chip out. On Unistrut and light structural components, it was efficient enough that I didn’t reach for a higher-TPI metal blade unless I needed an ultra-clean finish. In embedded fasteners—nails, screws, the odd lag—it cut decisively without snagging. It’ll get through stainless sheet in a pinch, but expect slower progress and more heat; a higher-TPI blade is better there.

The key with this blade is pressure management. It rewards a firm, steady feed. Lean too hard and you’re more likely to introduce oscillation or deflect the cut. Keep your speed mid-to-high, let the teeth work, and it maintains bite without bogging.

Cutting in Wood and Demo Work

This is a metal blade, and it behaves like one in wood. It will cut framing, trim, and the occasional buried nail scenario just fine. But the 8–10 TPI tooth pattern is not ideal for aggressive pruning or fast demolition in clean lumber. In dry 2x material, it runs smooth but slower than a coarse wood blade. In green wood and branches, you’ll feel it hesitate and you’ll be more likely to experience blade flex if the kerf pinches. If your plan is yard work or lopping off stumps, a dedicated pruning blade with a much larger tooth pitch is the right tool. I tested the Skil blade on a few branches to see how it crossed over; it’ll do it, but it’s not the efficient choice and the longer 9-inch length makes it easier to induce an S-bend if the cut binds.

For demo, where you’re plunging into sheathing or slicing through stud/nail combinations, it’s serviceable—and the bi-metal teeth survive surprises—but you’ll cut faster with a wood or multi-material blade designed for that application.

Vibration, Tracking, and Control

Skil calls out reduced vibration and straighter cuts. Compared with a uniform 10 TPI metal blade, I did feel a modest reduction in chatter, especially when starting cuts in conduit and on thin angle. Once buried in the cut, the blade runs reasonably smooth as long as the shoe is anchored. The long length is a double-edged sword: great for reach and flush cuts, but more sensitive to technique. If you crowd the cut or cantilever the blade, you can introduce flex and wander. Keep the shoe firmly planted, ease into the work, and it tracks straight. For tight-radius plunge cuts in sheet goods, a shorter blade is easier to control.

Durability and Longevity

Bi-metal blades live or die by tooth hardness and how well the backer resists fatigue. After multiple conduit and angle cuts, plus a handful of threaded rods, the cutting edge still felt sharp enough to keep using. I intentionally made some hot cuts without lubricant to see if the tips would blue—they discolored slightly but didn’t round over immediately. The backer held up well to light side loading and a couple of incidental pinches. In situations where I pushed hard in wood (the wrong application), I could flex the blade more than I’d like, which reinforces the point: choose the blade for the material, and these hold up as advertised.

Value and Pack Configuration

The five-pack makes sense. With recip blades, you don’t want to be precious—fresh teeth are productivity. Having multiple identical blades lets you rotate, keep one sacrificial for nasty demo, and reserve another for cleaner metal cuts. If you do a lot of mixed-material work, I’d pair this pack with a shorter 6-inch metal blade and a coarse wood/pruning blade so you’re covered across the board.

Who It’s For

• Electricians, plumbers, and HVAC techs cutting conduit, threaded rod, and strut
• Remodelers who frequently meet embedded nails and occasional metal profiles
• DIYers wanting a reliable metal blade for garage projects without piecing together a specialty assortment

Who should look elsewhere:
- Anyone primarily pruning trees or cutting green wood—get a dedicated pruning blade
- Sheet-metal workers who live in thin stainless or aluminum—use a higher TPI metal blade
- Users who prefer shorter, stiffer blades for maximum control in tight spaces

Small Tips From Use

• Mark and score a small notch to prevent skating on round stock.
• Turn off orbital action for metal and keep feed pressure moderate; let the teeth clear chips.
• Use the shoe aggressively. A planted shoe is your best friend for straight cuts and lower vibration.
• For repeated cuts in thicker steel, a dab of cutting fluid meaningfully extends edge life.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil 9-inch metal blade for general metal cutting—conduit, rod, light structural shapes, and demo with embedded fasteners. It delivers predictable performance, respectable durability, and good control when used as intended. The variable 8–10 TPI teeth handle most common jobsite metals without excessive chatter, and the five-pack is practical for real work. Just treat it as a metal blade, not a do-everything solution: it’s slower in wood, not ideal for pruning, and the 9-inch length, while useful, demands decent technique to avoid flex. If your cuts skew toward metal with occasional mixed-material tasks, this blade belongs in your kit. If you’re primarily cutting wood or green material, pick a dedicated wood or pruning blade instead.