Shuisen Universal Snow Plow Blade Flap Compatible with Kolpin & Polaris for 48"-72" Blades,72" x 6" x 1/4" Snow Plow Rubber Deflector Edge Fit for ATVs,UTVs,Side-by-Sides and 4-Wheelers,Snow Plow Accessories

Why I added a flap to my plow setup

Snow management on an ATV is as much about controlling where the snow goes as it is about pushing it. On windy days or with wetter snow, I’d end a run coated in fine spray and watch my headlight beam bounce back off the plume. I installed the Shuisen rubber plow deflector to tame that blowback on a 60-inch Kolpin blade mounted to a Polaris Sportsman. It’s a simple piece of gear—a 72 x 6 x 1/4-inch strip of rubber you trim and drill to fit—but it changes the experience more than you might expect.

Design and build

This is a straightforward, universal rubber flap intended for 48- to 72-inch blades on ATVs, UTVs, and side-by-sides. The rubber is a true quarter-inch thick, dense but flexible enough to bend with the curve of a plow. The finish is even, edges were clean out of the box, and the material has enough spring that it returns to shape after being flexed. It’s not a cutting edge—this mounts along the upper edge of your plow to form a flexible curtain that contains the snow plume.

The length gives you options. On a 60-inch blade I had roughly a foot of extra material after trimming, which I repurposed as simple side wings to further corral snow at the blade ends. The flap I received included basic mounting hardware: bolts, washers, and locking nuts. The hardware is serviceable, though if you store the plow outdoors or run in salted environments, upgrading to stainless fasteners and adding oversized fender washers or a backing strip isn’t a bad idea for long-term durability.

Installation: measure twice, cut once

Universal fit means you do the layout. Here’s what worked for me:

• Mock-up first: I clamped the flap to the blade with 2 inches of overhang above the blade’s top lip. That overhang is what catches and curls the snow plume downward.
• Mark and cut: I marked the cut line with a silver paint marker and cut with a sharp utility knife along a straightedge in multiple passes. A jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade also works on cold days when rubber stiffens.
• Hole pattern: I mirrored the blade’s bolt pattern where possible, adding extra holes between factory locations so the flap couldn’t bow under load. I drilled 5/16-inch holes for 1/4-inch hardware to allow a tiny bit of movement without tearing.
• Backing support: Where the blade lacked a continuous top strap, I used large washers on the back side to spread load. If your blade has a formed top rib, tie into it—flatter blades benefit from a backing strip to prevent wrinkling.
• Tighten with care: I snugged fasteners just enough to compress the rubber slightly. Over-tightening can cause the flap to pucker.

Total install time was about an hour including measuring, cutting, and drilling. The only permanent modification was the additional holes in the blade’s top lip—something to consider if you’re worried about resale or switching systems later.

Performance in snow

The payoff was immediate. With light, cold powder, the flap knocked down the rooster tail and kept my visor and headlights clear. Running 8–10 mph into a headwind, the fine mist that usually sneaks over the top was almost entirely gone. On heavy, wet spring snow (the type that wants to roll over and slap you in the face), the flap redirected that roll back into the blade instead of letting it boil over.

A few specifics I noticed:

• Plume control: The biggest benefit is reduced blowback. The working edge of the flap flexes forward just enough to curl the plume downward. Keeping 1.5–2 inches of overhang seems to be the sweet spot for my setup.
• Efficiency: With less spillage over the top, I covered ground faster because I wasn’t cleaning up as many dropped clumps behind the blade.
• Side containment: Using offcuts to make small side deflectors lowered end spill and helped pull the windrow tighter. It’s not a substitute for full wings, but it’s a noticeable improvement.
• Noise and flutter: At higher speeds on packed surfaces, there’s a faint flutter sound. It’s minor and disappears once you’re in snow. Even in subzero conditions, the rubber stayed pliable enough to avoid stiff slap.

One caveat: if your bolt spacing is too wide, the flap can scallop between fasteners and allow small domes of snow to leak over. Adding a couple of intermediate bolts solved this for me.

Durability and cold-weather behavior

After multiple storms, from dry single-digit days to a heavy wet dump just below freezing, the flap shows only scuffs and a few surface scratches. The rubber hasn’t cracked or glazed, and I haven’t seen UV chalking—though I store the rig out of direct sun between uses. Cold flexibility has been good down around 0°F; it stiffens a touch but still flexes predictably.

Fasteners remained tight, though I re-checked torque after the first couple of sessions. If you plow on gravel, expect the flap’s lower edge to abrade slightly over time where it contacts the rolling plume; that’s normal and not a functional issue.

Compatibility notes

• Blade width: There’s enough length to fit anything from 48 to 72 inches, with trimming required. For 72-inch blades you’ll likely use the full length.
• Blade profile: Curved ATV/UTV blades are the natural match. Flat-faced blades will need more fasteners to prevent “oil canning” between bolts.
• Vehicle speed: It’s intended for ATVs/UTVs and side-by-sides. I wouldn’t use it on a truck plow that sees highway transport; the wind load at 55 mph can fatigue universal flaps unless they’re supported by a top strip.
• Lighting and racks: The added height of the flap can shadow a light bar mounted directly behind the blade’s lip. Relocating lights up a few inches or aiming slightly higher solves it.

Tips from the install and first season

• Space fasteners 6–8 inches apart along the top lip for even pressure.
• Leave 1.5–2 inches of flap above the blade’s edge to catch the plume without turning into a sail.
• Deburr holes in the blade to avoid cutting into the rubber over time.
• If your plow lacks a top brace, add a thin aluminum or steel backing bar behind the rubber for load distribution.
• Store the plow out of direct sunlight in the off-season to keep the rubber from aging prematurely.

What I’d change

• Pre-marked guide: A faint printed grid or centerline on the rubber would make cutting and hole alignment faster.
• Hardware options: Including stainless hardware and a simple backing strip would better match the use case for salted winter environments.
• Documentation: A one-page diagram with suggested overhang and bolt spacing would help first-time installers.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they would shorten the install curve and improve longevity for harsher conditions.

Value and alternatives

OEM brand-specific flaps exist for Kolpin and Polaris setups, but they’re typically pricier and still require drilling. The Shuisen flap’s universal format is cost-effective, and the ability to tune bolt spacing and overhang for your exact blade is a plus. If you want a more rigid solution, polycarbonate toppers exist, though they can crack in extreme cold and aren’t as forgiving when you tap obstacles. For most ATV/UTV users, a thick rubber flap like this strikes the right balance of control, durability, and simplicity.

Recommendation

I recommend the Shuisen rubber plow deflector for ATV and UTV owners who want to cut down on blowback and keep their passes cleaner, especially in wind or with wet, rolling snow. It installs with basic tools, the material quality is solid, and performance gains are obvious on the first push. Be prepared to measure, cut, and drill; it’s not plug-and-play, and blades without a top brace may benefit from a backing strip or closer bolt spacing. If you’re comfortable with that light bit of fabrication, this flap is a practical, durable upgrade that makes winter work less messy and more efficient.