Enhon 2 Set Tub Spout Diverter Repair Kit, Includes 2 x Diverter Valve Stems, 2 x Cup Seals and 2 x Gates, Bathroom Shower Bathtub Leaky Faucet Repair Replacement Parts

A budget fix for a tired tub spout diverter

A failed tub spout diverter is one of those small annoyances that snowballs into wasted water and poor shower performance. I tried the Enhon tub spout diverter kit on a mid-2000s straight-edged bathtub spout that had been dribbling from the outlet no matter how hard I yanked the lift rod. In my case, the kit turned out to be a fast, inexpensive repair that brought shower pressure back and cut the spout dribble down to a faint trickle. The experience wasn’t entirely frictionless, and “universal” is doing a bit of heavy lifting in the description, but with a little prep this kit is a practical option for a lot of standard spouts.

What’s inside

You get two complete rebuild sets. Each set includes:
- A metal diverter stem
- A plastic diverter gate
- A rubber cup seal

The metal stems feel properly rigid and machined cleanly. The plastic gates are basic but robust enough for the job, and the cup seals are a soft, grippy rubber that compresses well. Having two sets is genuinely useful: it’s a built-in backup if you drop a part down the drain, and it lets you try a second gate/seal if the first seating isn’t perfect.

Compatibility check before you start

Despite the “universal” claim, this kit is best suited to straight-edged, standard tub spouts with a pull-up lift rod and internal gate that slides up to block the outlet. A few quick checks saved me hassle:

• Spout style: Works for straight-edged spouts with a lift rod. Not for tip-toe drains, wall-mount valves, or certain proprietary diverter designs integrated into branded spouts.
• Attachment: This is an internal rebuild, not a new spout. Whether your spout is threaded or slip-on doesn’t matter as long as the internal diverter layout matches.
• Gate size and rod interface: Peek inside the spout with a flashlight. If you see a sliding gate that’s captured by two tabs on the lift rod, you’re likely in the right territory.

If your spout has odd geometry or a unique diverter carriage, you may be better off replacing the entire spout with a model-specific part.

Installation: straightforward with a couple of gotchas

I set a small towel in the tub to catch parts, shut off the water as a precaution, and gathered a flathead screwdriver, needle-nose pliers, and a dab of silicone plumber’s grease.

The general steps went like this:
1. Spread the two small tabs that clamp onto the lift rod and remove the old gate assembly.
2. Clean the interior. I wiped out scale and debris with vinegar and a brush so the new seal would seat against clean metal.
3. Place the new cup seal on the gate, add a whisper of silicone grease to the seal edge, and insert the gate into the spout.
4. Reattach the lift rod to the tabs, making sure the gate slides freely.
5. Test the motion a few times before turning the water back on.

Two tips made the difference:
- Don’t skip the cleaning step. Mineral buildup can defeat even a perfect new seal.
- Make sure the gate is square. If it’s cocked slightly, you’ll get more spout dribble. I had to reseat the gate once to get a better seal; the second try clicked into place and improved performance noticeably.

Total work time was under 20 minutes, including cleaning and testing.

Performance after the swap

The first test is the simplest: with the shower on and the diverter pulled up, how much still comes out of the spout? After the install, my spout went from a steady stream to a faint dribble, and shower pressure jumped back to what I’d expect from a clean, modern head. If you’re expecting zero drops from the spout, that’s not realistic for many diverter designs; a minimal trickle is common. If you see a noticeable stream, either the gate isn’t seated square, the seal lip isn’t centered, or the spout’s internal seat is pitted or worn. Reseating fixed it for me. If reseating and cleaning don’t help, your spout may be outside the effective range of this kit.

Materials and durability

The stem’s metal build inspires confidence and should outlast the plastic gate—fair enough, since the gate is the wear part that compresses the seal. The cup seals feel like a decent compound: pliable, uniform, and not brittle. In use, the motion is smoother than the gritty feel of my old diverter, and there’s less effort required to pull the rod up.

Long term, rubber seals live or die based on water chemistry and how often they’re cycled. A light coat of silicone grease during installation and occasionally after deep cleans will extend the life of the seal and help the gate slide without binding.

What could be better

• Universality claims: The kit covers the common design, but it won’t fit everything. A basic printable sizing guide or a diagram of compatible gate geometries would save buyers a lot of guesswork.
• Instructions: The included directions are minimal. An exploded diagram or QR code to a clear walkthrough would be welcome, especially for first-timers.
• Tolerance variance: Between spout seat wear and small differences in casting, seating can be fussy. The two-pack partly solves this; if one gate doesn’t seal well after a careful install, try the second set.

Practical tips from the install

• Clean thoroughly: A vinegar soak on a rag pressed into the outlet seat for 10–15 minutes helps dissolve scale before you insert the new gate.
• Grease sparingly: A tiny amount of silicone plumber’s grease on the seal lip reduces friction and helps the seal conform.
• Check the lift rod: If the rod is bent or sticky, straighten and clean it. Binding rods make it feel like the kit “doesn’t work” even when the seal is fine.
• Test with warm water: Warm water softens the seal slightly and can help it bed in on first use.
• Expect a trickle: Aim for “minimal drip,” not “laboratory dry.” If you still have a stream, revisit alignment.

Value and alternatives

This is a low-cost way to rescue an otherwise serviceable spout. Replacing the entire spout is a broader fix if your internal seat is damaged, but it’s more expensive and takes more time, especially if you’re dealing with stubborn pipe threads or a slip-on spout that’s corroded in place. For most standard, intact spouts with a worn diverter, this kit hits the sweet spot: quick install, noticeable improvement, almost no risk.

If your spout is a brand-specific design (some Moen, Delta, or Kohler models) or has a unique diverter carriage, look for a manufacturer-matched repair kit or replace the spout with a compatible model.

Who it’s for

• DIYers with a standard straight-edged spout and a sticky or leaky diverter
• Renters and property managers who want a quick, non-invasive fix
• Anyone looking to improve shower flow without swapping the entire spout

Who should skip it:
- Those with nonstandard or proprietary diverter mechanisms
- Anyone with a badly pitted or damaged spout seat—replace the spout instead

Bottom line

The Enhon tub spout diverter kit gave me a quick, clean recovery of shower performance at a fraction of the cost and hassle of a full spout replacement. Installation was approachable with basic tools, and having two sets in the package proved useful for fine-tuning the seal. It’s not a magic bullet for every diverter out there, and the “universal” label oversells its range. But for the common straight-edged spout style, it works as promised and feels durable where it counts.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for standard tub spouts with a pull-up diverter where the internal seat is intact. It’s cost-effective, the materials are up to the task, and the install is well within reach for a careful DIYer. Just confirm your spout style first, clean thoroughly during installation, and manage expectations around “universal” fit.