Danco 39696 Cross-Arm 3-Handle Tub/Shower Faucet Rebuild & Remodeling Valve Trim Kit for Pfister Contempera – Contessa, White/Chrome

Why I reached for this kit

An aging three-handle Pfister tub/shower in a 1960s bathroom had gotten to the point where it needed more than a quick washer swap. Rather than source a handful of individual parts, I rebuilt it with the Danco 3-handle Pfister rebuild kit. It’s designed for classic 3-handle Pfister setups with 5 to 5-9/16 inch stem spacing (not for 4-1/4 inch valves), and it includes new stems, seats, cross handles, sleeves, flanges, and a socket wrench. In short, all the core bits you’d normally mix-and-match for this kind of refresh, already matched and ready.

What’s in the box and build quality

The kit includes:
- Hot and cold stems (12H-2H and 12H-2C, both 5-5/8 inches)
- A diverter stem (12H-18D)
- Three #38 valve seats (7/16 inch x 27 thread)
- Three cross-style handles with H/C/D index buttons
- Three sleeves and three flanges
- A simple socket wrench for the stem nuts

The stems are brass and feel stout. The seats are correctly threaded for Pfister bodies of the target era, and the cross handles have a classic porcelain-and-chrome look that suits mid-century and transitional bathrooms. The handles are metal where it matters, with porcelain grips that give good purchase even with wet hands. Overall finish is good for the price point. If you look inches away, you may notice minor casting or finish marks in the porcelain, but from normal distance the set looks cohesive and tidy.

Fit and compatibility notes

A few key checks before you tear into the wall:
- Measure center-to-center spacing: this kit fits 5 to 5-9/16 inches. If your body is 4-1/4 inches, this is the wrong kit.
- Confirm you have a Pfister 3-handle body (the kit targets legacy Pfister bath series like Contempera/Contessa).
- Look at how deep the valve body sits behind finished tile. If it’s recessed more than typical (say the tile/backerboard stack is very thick or the rough-in is set far back), the included sleeves and flanges can end up a bit short, leaving a visible gap when the handles are open. If your body is roughly flush with typical 1/2 inch backer plus thinset and tile, you should be fine. Deep-set installs may require longer trim sleeves or escutcheon extensions.

On my install, the hot and cold landed nicely; the diverter was the one I had to finesse. The flange coverage was adequate on two valves but borderline on the third where the body was set slightly deeper. A pair of thin escutcheon extensions solved it cleanly without opening the wall. That’s worth having on hand if your rough-in isn’t picture-perfect.

Installation: what helped and what didn’t

I pulled the old stems, inspected the seats, and replaced them. I strongly recommend replacing seats when you install new stems; pairing fresh washers with worn seats is a recipe for early leaks. The kit includes the seats but not a seat wrench. You’ll want a square-ended seat wrench that fits 7/16-27 seats—common and inexpensive, but not a tool everyone has. The included socket wrench worked fine for stem nuts.

My process and tips:
1. Shut off water, remove old handles and trim, then back out the old stems.
2. Remove valve seats with a square seat wrench. If they’re stubborn, a drop of penetrating oil helps.
3. Reinstall new seats with a dab of thread sealant. Don’t over-torque; snug is enough.
4. Grease stem threads and packing with silicone plumber’s grease for smooth action.
5. Thread in new stems, snug with the supplied socket, then test for smooth travel and shutoff.
6. Dry-fit sleeves and flanges to check for coverage before final assembly.
7. Install handles and index buttons. A tiny drop of medium threadlocker on the handle screws keeps them from backing out over time.

One hiccup I ran into: on a single handle, the mounting screw bottomed out before fully clamping the cross handle. A small stainless washer under the screw head created the needed clamping length. Alternatively, trimming a couple of threads off the screw would also work.

Performance and feel

With new seats and stems, the valve sealed cleanly with modest hand torque—no more reefing on the handles to stop drips. The cross handles give excellent grip and need only a sensible turn to shut off. Remember these are compression-style stems, not ceramic disc cartridges. They turn more than a quarter-turn by design, and the rubber washers will compress slightly over time. The upside is easy servicing and low-cost consumables; the trade-off is you don’t get the feather-light quarter-turn feel of ceramics.

The diverter action is positive. On my setup, engagement is clean, and the shower transfer is complete with no cross-bleed. If you still see minor leakage from the tub spout when the shower’s on, that’s usually a spout or body issue, not the diverter itself—worth checking the spout diverter or spout fit if you don’t replace it at the same time.

Noise and flow are normal for a Pfister compression body. I noticed a smoother ramp-up after greasing the stem threads, which I recommend. Also, don’t overtighten the handles; firm contact on the seat is enough. Overcranking compresses the washers prematurely and shortens service life.

Looks and ergonomics

If you like a period-correct, classic bath aesthetic, the white cross handles with chrome trim fit right in. The porcelain stays grippy when wet, and the index buttons are clear. The flanges are modest in size, so the look is clean rather than heavy. In small showers, that restraint helps.

The only aesthetic caution is trim length relative to your rough-in depth. If you see a gap between the trim pieces with the handles opened, it’s typically a geometry issue, not a finish flaw. Extensions or longer sleeves fix it; I’d rather keep the slimmer look and add an extension than start with oversized trim.

Durability and serviceability

Brass stems and replaceable seats are the right choices for longevity in legacy Pfister bodies. Future maintenance is straightforward: washers and packings are standard, seats are common, and you can service individual components without replacing the whole valve. The porcelain handles have held up well to daily use; they’re heavier than many plastic replacements and feel more substantial in the hand. As with any porcelain, don’t drop them on cast iron or stone surfaces.

The kit complies with the Reduction of Lead in Drinking Water Act. While a tub/shower isn’t a drinking water fixture, it’s good to see compliance baked in.

What I’d change

• Include a seat wrench. The kit already includes seats; bundling the proper wrench would make this more turnkey for DIYers.
• Offer a longer sleeve/escutcheon option in the box, or include thin extension rings. That would cover the common scenario of slightly deep-set bodies without extra parts chasing.
• Slightly shorter or alternate-length handle screws would avoid bottoming on some stem/handle stacks.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re small tweaks that would smooth out the last 10% of installs.

Who this kit is for

• Homeowners refreshing a functional, older 3-handle Pfister body who want a full mechanical rebuild and a visual update without opening walls.
• Pros doing quick-turn bath rehabs where cost control matters and classical styling suits the space.
• Anyone comfortable with basic plumbing, including removing seats and stems, and who can measure rough-in spacing accurately.

If you need lever handles, quarter-turn ceramics, or have nonstandard spacing, this isn’t the right match. And if your valve is deeply recessed, plan on trim extensions.

Recommendation

I recommend this Danco kit for standard 5 to 5-9/16 inch, three-handle Pfister tub/shower rebuilds where you want a complete, cost-effective refresh with classic cross handles. The brass stems, included seats, and clean styling deliver solid value, and the installation is straightforward if you have (or borrow) a square seat wrench. Be mindful of valve depth behind the wall—deep rough-ins may require longer sleeves or escutcheon extensions—and be prepared to add a spacer or trim a handle screw if it bottoms out. With those small caveats addressed, the result is a leak-free, smooth-operating, period-appropriate setup that’s easy to maintain.