Skil 9 In. 5-TPI Wood Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade (3-Pack)

Why I reached for this blade

A weekend of yard cleanup gave me the perfect excuse to try the 9-inch Skil pruning blade. I wanted something aggressive enough to chew through green limbs, long enough to reach into dense shrubs, and forgiving when cuts got awkward. On paper, this blade checks those boxes: 5 TPI for fast wood removal, a 9-inch profile for reach, and fleam-ground teeth that cut on both strokes. I mounted it on a couple of different recip saws and spent two days pruning, trimming, and making rough cuts in construction lumber. Here’s how it actually performed.

Design and build

This is a one-piece high-carbon steel blade with a universal tang, so it dropped into every saw I tried without fuss. High-carbon steel is a deliberate choice for pruning: it takes a sharp edge and feels lively in the cut, though it won’t survive nails the way a bi-metal or carbide blade will. The 5 TPI tooth count is coarse—exactly what you want for green wood where chip clearance matters more than finish.

The standout feature is the fleam-ground tooth geometry. Unlike straight raker teeth, the alternating bevels are meant to slice fibers and keep working in both directions of the stroke. In practice, that helps the blade bite quickly and clear chips without packing up. It also reduces the tendency to polish and skate on sappy bark once the blade warms up.

At 9 inches, the blade hits a sweet spot for yard work. It reaches into tight foliage and around trunks, but it’s not so long that it whips uncontrollably. The body has enough flex to follow an irregular path, but it’s not a demolition blade—you can bend it if you lever it in a bind.

Setup and fitment

The universal tang locked securely into my saws’ quick-change collets. There’s enough body behind the tang to resist wallowing in the clamp, and I never had it loosen or rattle out. If your saw has an orbital setting, turn it on for pruning; it complements the tooth geometry and makes a noticeable difference in cut speed.

Cutting performance in the yard

I used the blade on a mix of green maple, pine, and some hardwood shrub limbs. On 3-inch green maple, my average cut time hovered around 8–10 seconds with firm shoe pressure and medium-high SPM. On 4–5-inch limbs, I was in the 12–18 second range depending on species and how well I supported the branch. Pine is predictably quicker; dense hardwoods benefit more from patience and a steady pace.

What stood out was the initial bite. Starting a cut on a rounded branch is often where pruning blades chatter; this one grabbed consistently with a slow trigger squeeze, then accelerated cleanly. The fleam grind seemed to help keep the cut moving even if my stroke rate varied. I also had less chip packing than I expected—the gullets stayed reasonably clear, and the blade didn’t glaze over in sap as fast as some straight-ground pruning blades.

Vibration is manageable as long as the saw’s shoe is planted firmly. If you float the shoe or reach too far, the long blade can oscillate. Lock in the shoe, let the teeth eat, and the cut feels controlled. I did one-handed cuts at arm’s length when reach was tight; the blade tolerated it, but two hands and a set shoe are much kinder to the user and the tool.

Control, bending, and what happens when you force it

Flexibility is a double-edged sword here. It helps the blade track through curved cuts around a trunk and reduces the chance of kick when the kerf closes unevenly. It also means you can kink it if you torque the blade sideways in a bind. I managed to put a gentle S-curve into one blade when I fed aggressively into a pinched kerf with the branch under tension. I straightened it and kept working, but it’s a reminder: this is a fast-cutting pruning blade, not a backer-stiffened demolition blade. Keep the cut supported, avoid side loading, and you’ll be fine.

Rough carpentry and construction lumber

I made a series of test cuts in dry 2x material. The blade rips through clean, nail-free lumber very quickly, but the finish is ragged—no surprise with 5 TPI. It’s adequate for rough sizing or flush-cutting a protruding stud or shim, but it wouldn’t be my first choice for anything approaching a clean edge. When I intentionally nicked a fastener, the edge dulled immediately. That’s the trade-off with high-carbon steel. If there’s a chance of metal, grab a bi-metal or carbide blade instead.

Cut quality and bark tear-out

For pruning, the cut quality is good. The fleam grind leaves a relatively clean severed surface compared to straight raker teeth, especially if you finish with a light touch. To minimize bark tear-out on larger limbs, I had the best results with a small undercut before the main cut—just a shallow score to catch the fibers—then a top cut with the shoe planted. The blade tracks accurately enough that this is easy to do.

Longevity and maintenance

After a full day of cutting, the first blade in the pack was still going strong. It showed light pitch buildup but retained a good bite. A quick scrub with solvent removed the resin. Expect wear to accelerate if you’re cutting near the ground and dragging the blade into dirt—grit will blunt any edge fast. Keep the blade off the soil and avoid unknown fasteners, and you’ll get solid life out of each piece.

Speed and user comfort

This is a quick blade in green wood. Cutting speed remained consistent as long as I didn’t overfeed. If I leaned too hard into the shoe, the blade would chatter and slow slightly; easing pressure brought the speed back. The saw felt balanced with the 9-inch length—long enough to reduce stooping but short enough to avoid amplification of vibration. Ear and eye protection are mandatory, but hand fatigue stayed low thanks to the blade’s smooth engagement and chip clearing.

Where it shines, where it doesn’t

• Excels at:
  • Pruning live limbs from roughly 1–6 inches
  • Fast rough cuts in clean softwood
  • Reaching into dense foliage with decent control
• Acceptable for:
  • Rough trimming of construction lumber without nails
  • Occasional flush cuts where finish doesn’t matter
• Not ideal for:
  • Nail-embedded wood or demolition
  • Precise, clean cuts in finished material
  • Aggressive side-loading or prying in tight kerfs

Tips for best results

• Use orbital action for pruning if your saw has it.
• Plant the shoe firmly; control improves and vibration drops.
• Start the cut slow to let the teeth seat, then ramp up speed.
• Make a small undercut to prevent bark tear-out on larger limbs.
• Keep the blade out of dirt and away from unknown fasteners.
• Clean resin buildup periodically to maintain bite.

Value and pack size

The 3-pack format makes sense. One blade covered a full day’s pruning for me, and having spares onboard is reassuring when you’re far from the toolbox. While you can find longer or stiffer blades, this set balances reach, cut speed, and cost effectively for routine yard work.

Final recommendation

I recommend the 9-inch Skil pruning blade for anyone tackling regular yard maintenance and clean wood cuts. It’s fast in green wood, easy to control with proper technique, and the fleam-ground teeth stay productive longer than many straight-ground alternatives. Respect its limitations—avoid nails and side loading, and don’t expect finish-quality cuts—and you’ll get dependable performance and solid value out of the 3-pack. If your work leans toward demolition or embedded fasteners, choose a bi-metal or carbide alternative; otherwise, this is a worthy go-to for pruning and general wood cutting.