DeWalt 12 in. Dual-Port Rip Guide

Why I reached for this rip guide

I keep a few ways to make straight rips on the truck: a clamped straightedge, a track saw, and a basic fence that rides the edge of the workpiece. For jobs where I’m ripping consistent widths out of construction lumber or sheet parts already squared on one side—think stair treads, risers, shelves, and filler strips—I prefer an attached rip guide. It’s quick, it’s repeatable, and I don’t have to shuffle clamps around between cuts. That’s where this lightweight, folding rip guide has earned a spot in my kit.

What it is and how it’s built

The rip guide is a compact, aluminum attachment that bolts to your circular saw’s shoe with two included screws. Once mounted, it folds out to provide a 12-inch ripping capacity on the left side and up to 14-1/3 inches on the right. The arms fold back down to a tidy 19 inches by 3 inches for storage. At about 1.2 pounds, it doesn’t make the saw feel nose-heavy, and the aluminum construction has held up to being knocked around in a crate without bending or losing alignment.

The scale markings are laser-etched, which I appreciate more than I expected. On sunny job sites or under LED lights, painted scales can glare or fade; these don’t. They’re crisp and permanent, which matters when you’re dialing in repeat cuts across a bunch of boards.

Setup and compatibility

Installation is simple in theory: remove two screws from your saw’s shoe, align the rip guide’s bracket, and secure it with the included hardware. In practice, compatibility is the make-or-break detail. This guide is designed around specific saws that have the correct mounting holes on the shoe. On some models—particularly worm-drive saws—the fit is straightforward and solid. On many sidewinders and newer cordless saws, there may be no compatible mounting points or the geometry doesn’t allow the guide to sit square. If your saw doesn’t have the right hole pattern, there’s no practical way to adapt it.

My advice: before buying, look closely at your saw’s shoe for the correct threaded holes and check the manufacturer’s compatibility notes. This is not a universal clamp-on fence, and that’s the biggest caveat with this otherwise capable guide.

Once installed, I recommend a quick calibration. Set the guide to a known dimension (say, 6 inches), make a test rip in scrap, measure the offcut, and adjust the “zero” relationship by nudging the bracket if necessary. Blade kerf and shoe variance between saw models can shift the scale a hair; a five-minute calibration pays off later with reliable repeatability.

In use: speed and repeatability

On tasks like ripping 1x12s down to consistent widths for trim and stair components, the rip guide shines. I can set the width, fold the arm out, snug the guide foot against the board’s edge, and make clean, parallel cuts without setting up a separate fence. The right-side capacity of up to 14-1/3 inches is particularly handy when I’m trimming shelf stock to a standard depth; the left-side 12-inch capacity covers most risers and treads.

Cut accuracy has been excellent for a rip-fence style guide: if I do my part, I can keep cuts within a 1/32 inch of target across an 8-foot run. The permanence and clarity of the etched scale makes it easy to land on exact measurements and return to them throughout a project. Because the guide foot follows the edge of your workpiece, your result is only as straight as the reference edge—if the edge is wavy, your cut will be consistently parallel to a wavy line. For best results, start with a factory edge or joint one edge before using the guide for repeat rips.

Balance and control feel natural. The added mass is minimal, and visibility around the shoe isn’t compromised. On long rips, I keep a steady, gentle pressure pushing the guide foot into the workpiece while keeping my eyes on the cut line. The guide eliminates the drift you can get when relying solely on the shoe against the board’s edge.

Build quality and durability

The aluminum arms and hinges feel robust for their weight. Folding and unfolding doesn’t introduce slop, and the lock-up stays consistent after travel. The joint hardware hasn’t loosened with use, though I give it a quick once-over at the start of the week. The etched scale remains legible without the smudging or chipping I’ve seen on painted markings. The compact folded size—19 by 3 inches—means it slides into a job box or hangs on a peg without hogging space.

Limitations and trade-offs

• Compatibility: This is the big one. If your saw lacks the right mounting holes, it won’t fit. Verify before you invest. If you switch between saws often, you may need multiple guides or accept that it will live on one dedicated saw.
• Maximum width: Left-side rips stop at 12 inches; right side at 14-1/3 inches. That covers many tasks but not breaking down full sheets into wide panels. For sheet goods beyond that, I still reach for a track saw or a clamped straightedge.
• Edge quality: Because the guide rides the workpiece edge, any irregularities telegraph into the cut. This is true of all rip-fence attachments, but worth noting if you’re working with rough stock.
• Flex at full extension: While the arms are stiff for the category, any fence this long can exhibit a touch of flex if you lean on it. A light touch and good support under the workpiece keep cuts true.

Practical tips

• Calibrate once: Set the scale to your saw and blade kerf with a test cut. Scribe a tiny reference mark if needed.
• Use a straight reference edge: Joint or shoot one edge, or select boards with a factory edge for your reference side.
• Support the work: Staging on sacrificial foam or a bench with ample support helps minimize binding or wandering.
• Blade choice matters: A sharp, appropriate-tooth blade will improve cut quality more than any guide can.
• Mind the material edge: Keep consistent, light pressure pushing the guide foot to the edge—don’t oversteer.

Where it fits in my workflow

I reach for this rip guide when I need a series of parallel cuts, fast, and I’m working off a straight edge: stairs, casing returns, shelving strips, closet build-outs, and many trim scenarios. It fills the gap between a universal clamp-on edge and the more deliberate setup of a track system. The folding design means it can live on the saw without demanding space, and the quick deployment keeps me moving.

If I’m processing rough lumber, making very wide rips, or chasing cabinet-grade surface quality in hardwood plywood, I still prefer a track saw. And if I’m using a saw that can’t accept the guide, I default to a universal solution.

The bottom line

This rip guide is a well-executed, lightweight attachment that brings speed and repeatable accuracy to everyday ripping tasks. The dual-side capacities (12 inches left, up to 14-1/3 inches right) cover a lot of common dimensions, the aluminum build holds alignment while keeping weight down, and the laser-etched scale makes setup quick and reliable. It folds small, installs cleanly on compatible saws, and stays out of the way when not in use.

Recommendation: I recommend it—conditionally. If your circular saw is compatible with the mounting pattern, this is a practical, durable rip guide that will save time and deliver consistent results on a wide range of cuts. If your saw isn’t compatible, or if you frequently switch between different saws, consider a universal clamp-on guide or a track system instead. The value is excellent within its compatibility envelope; outside of that, it’s simply not the right tool.