DeWalt Metal Cutting Bi-Metal Reciprocating Saw Blades

Why I reached for these blades

I put these DeWalt bi‑metal recip blades to work on a week of metal odds and ends: trimming EMT conduit, cutting 3/8-inch mild‑steel threaded rod, notching 16–18 gauge sheet for HVAC patch work, and lopping off a few stubborn nails buried in a jamb. They’re short, stiff, and purpose‑built for metal—a combination that changes how a reciprocating saw behaves in your hands. If you’re used to 6- or 9-inch general‑purpose blades, the first surprise is how controlled these feel in tight spaces.

Build and specs that matter

• Length: 3-1/2 in
  
• Width: 1 in
  
• Thickness: 0.035 in
  
• Teeth per inch: 14 TPI, constant pitch
  
• Material: Bi‑metal (bi‑metal toothline)
  
• Tip/profile: Straight
  
• Shank: Standard universal
  
• Coating: Anti‑stick finish
  
• Country of origin: US

That short 3‑1/2-inch length is the defining trait. Paired with a full 1-inch width and 0.035-inch thickness, the blade is impressively rigid for its size. It seats securely in a standard recip saw and doesn’t telegraph flex the way longer blades often do. The constant 14 TPI toothline is a practical middle ground for common metal: mild steel tube, conduit, angle, and rod, along with copper and aluminum. The anti‑stick coating is not just a marketing line—more on that in a moment.

Cutting performance on common metals

On 1/2-inch EMT conduit, the blades cut quickly without excessive chatter. Using a compact 18V brushless saw at medium speed and moderate pressure, I was consistently through in a couple seconds per cut. The 14 TPI tooth pattern bites cleanly without grabbing the thin wall—a risk with coarser teeth—while still ejecting chips well enough to avoid packing.

Threaded rod is a good test of heat and tooth toughness. On 3/8-inch mild steel rod, I got smooth, predictable cuts in roughly 8–12 seconds depending on how steady I kept the work clamped. The kerf stayed straight thanks to the blade’s stiffness, which matters if you’re cutting close to a nut or washer and want a reasonably square face.

In 1/8-inch flat bar and 16-gauge angle, cut quality remained good, with burrs that were easy to knock down. The constant pitch puts you in control—no sudden surges—and the blade will tolerate a light feed for cleaner edges. It’s not the fastest blade I own on thick stock, but it’s consistent across the range most trades hit in the field.

For thin sheet (20–24 gauge), 14 TPI is usable but not ideal. You can manage it by slowing the stroke rate and angling the shoe to keep multiple teeth engaged; still, a finer tooth blade would leave a cleaner edge and reduce snatch. These blades will do it, but it isn’t where they shine.

Tight‑radius and scribing work

At first glance, a 1‑inch‑wide, straight‑profile blade doesn’t scream “radius cutting,” yet the short overall length changes the game. With less overhang and flex, it’s easier to steer the saw body and pivot on the shoe, which helps trace gentle curves and notches in HVAC plenums or guard plates. I could nibble inside corners and follow a scribed line with better accuracy than with a longer blade. You won’t cut tight scrollwork, but for practical arcs and clean notches, the geometry is more controllable than expected.

For scribing, I used the techniques I’d normally reserve for a jigsaw: score the line lightly, then deepen the cut in passes. The blade’s rigidity kept it from wandering, provided I didn’t crowd the cut. If you need razor‑clean radii in thin sheet, switch to a finer TPI or use a nibbler; if you need to do it with a recip, these are among the easier blades to pilot.

Durability and heat control

The reinforced tooth line handles incidental abuse well. I intentionally ran into a handful of old sinker nails and a drywall screw buried in a trim cut—no chipped teeth, just a slight slowdown until I eased the feed pressure. In straight metal cuts, I got through dozens of EMT and rod cuts before noticing performance tail off. The teeth dull gradually, not suddenly.

The anti‑stick coating is helpful. Chips clear readily, and the blade doesn’t load up with tar or adhesive residue if you’re cutting painted or taped materials. It also seems to shed built‑up oxidation and reduces heat discoloration along the body. That said, the coating near the toothline will wear off where the work rubs; that’s normal. For best life, keep your strokes moderate and let the saw do the work; a drop of cutting fluid on thicker stock extends life and smooths the cut.

Control and vibration

Short blades inherently vibrate less. These feel planted, especially in a compact saw. Starting a cut is easier because you can keep more shoe contact and there’s less whip. That matters for precise trimming, cutting close to a finished surface, or working in awkward reaches where a longer blade would skate or flex.

Compatibility and availability notes

The standard shank fits any common recip saw. The 3‑1/2-inch length does limit reach—if you’re cutting behind a bracket or deep into a bundle, you’ll want a longer blade on hand. These come in multi‑packs (mine was a five‑pack), which is the right way to buy consumables like this. They’re made in the USA and TAA compliant, a plus for institutional buyers. Some retailers restrict shipping to AK, HI, and PR; if you work in those regions, check availability before planning a job around them.

Where they excel

• Cutting conduit, Unistrut, and thin angle where control and a clean face matter
• Trim cuts in threaded rod near hardware without wandering
• Notching and light radius work in 16–18 gauge sheet
• Demolition through light metal and the occasional embedded fastener
• Close‑quarters jobs where a long blade would chatter or hit obstructions

Where they fall short

• Very thin sheet (20–24 gauge) if you prioritize edge finish; a higher‑TPI blade is better
• Thick stock and heavy structural steel; you’ll cut it, but it’s slow—use a coarser or carbide blade
• Deep reach behind fixtures; the short length is a control advantage but a reach limitation

Tips to get the most from them

• Clamp the work and keep the shoe planted; these blades reward steady control.
• Start thin sheet at a low stroke rate with light pressure to avoid snatch.
• Use cutting oil on thicker stock to reduce heat and extend life.
• Let the blade cool between long cuts; heat is the enemy of tooth life.
• Don’t force the cut—keep several teeth engaged and maintain chip flow.

Value and longevity

Without getting into price, I judge value by cut consistency and how many tasks a blade can cover before I swap it. These hold a sharp edge longer than bargain bi‑metal blades I’ve used, especially when I keep the feed reasonable. The short length means fewer accidental kinks from binding, and that alone saves money over time. As a five‑pack, they make sense to keep in the kit for metal‑focused days or precise trimming.

The bottom line

These DeWalt bi‑metal recip blades are purpose‑built for controlled metal cutting in tight or precise situations. The short length and wide, stiff body give you an accuracy advantage over generic 6‑inch blades, while the 14 TPI toothline hits the sweet spot for conduit, rod, and light structural shapes. The anti‑stick coating and reinforced teeth aren’t just brochure points—they translate to smoother cutting and better survivability when you meet the inevitable stray fastener.

They’re not the only blades you’ll need. For paper‑thin sheet, grab a finer TPI; for heavy bar or frequent stainless, consider carbide. And if you need reach, carry a longer option. But for everyday metal tasks where control, predictability, and clean results matter, these have earned a permanent slot in my blade sleeve.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades to anyone who does frequent metal cutting with a recip saw—electricians, HVAC techs, maintenance crews, and fabricators tackling light stock. They excel at controlled, close‑quarters cuts and hold up well to real‑world abuse, making them a dependable, cost‑effective choice to keep on hand.