Dicunoy 20 PCS Engraving Router Bit Carving Bits, HSS Rotary Tool Accessories Rotary Burr Set with 1/8"(3mm) Shank for Wood Cutting, Carving, Drilling, Trimming, Beginner, Small Jobs in Soft Wood

Why I picked up this set

I spend a lot of time doing small woodworking and shop fixes where a full-size router is overkill: cutting a shallow inlay line, trimming a recess for a hinge, easing a sharp edge on a 3D-printed part, or engraving labels in a jig. That’s the sweet spot for a rotary tool, and the Dicunoy 20-piece burr set promised a broad range of shapes sized for exactly those tasks. After several weeks of use in soft woods and common plastics, here’s how it held up.

What you get

The set includes 20 high-speed steel burrs with a titanium coating, all on 1/8-inch (3 mm) shanks and about 40 mm in overall length. The assortment breaks down into two functional groups:

• Classic burrs for carving and shaping: cylinders (flat and rounded ends), cones, tapers, balls, and flame shapes.
• Tiny “router-like” profiles for small joinery and detail work: straight cutters, V-groove, and round-nose styles that act like miniature router bits for shallow grooves, chamfers, and profiling.

Everything fits standard 1/8-inch collets, so they dropped into a Dremel 3000 and a generic rotary tool without fuss. The shanks were consistently sized, and I didn’t see any wobble attributable to manufacturing variance; any runout I noticed came from the tool, not the bits.

Build quality and materials

Out of the box, edges felt sharp. The titanium coating is a thin wear layer that helps with heat and abrasion in wood and plastics. It’s not a cure-all, but it does slow down dulling compared with bare HSS in these materials. The flutes are ground cleanly with no burrs on the cutting edges, and there were no bent shanks in my set.

These are HSS burrs, not carbide, and they’re clearly labeled for soft woods and plastics only. That’s the right call: HSS is tough and forgiving, but it won’t hold an edge in metal and will dull quickly in abrasive hardwoods if you push too hard.

Setup and compatibility

I had the best control using a flex shaft and a small plunge base for the rotary tool when cutting straight grooves or doing repeatable work. For freehand shaping, the standard handpiece works fine. A few practical notes:

• Collet: Use a true 1/8-inch collet rather than a universal chuck to minimize runout.
• Speed: For soft wood, 15,000–25,000 RPM worked well; in plastics, 10,000–18,000 RPM reduced melting.
• Depth: These are small bits. Think in terms of shallow passes: 0.5–1.5 mm per pass is realistic.

Performance in soft wood

In basswood and pine, the classic burrs were easy to control for freehand carving and chamfering. The cylinder and taper shapes gave me clean bevels and predictable flats, while the ball and flame profiles excelled at shaping organic transitions. I could push moderately without chatter, and the cut stayed cool as long as I kept the tool moving.

The tiny router-style cutters are the standouts. A straight bit cut crisp 1–2 mm grooves for inlay lines with less tear-out than I expected, especially with a light climb finishing pass. The V-groove made readable engraved labels in a jig face with minimal fuzz. For slotting hinge recesses in soft wood, the straight cutter removed material quickly and left square shoulders good enough for utility hinges without chiseling.

Edge quality in soft wood is tied closely to speed and feed. Too slow or too much pressure, and you’ll burnish rather than cut; too fast with a heavy hand, and you’ll tear fibers. Light passes at mid-to-high RPMs gave me the cleanest results.

Performance in plastics

ABS and PVC behave differently from wood; heat management is key. The burrs did well when I dropped speed and took very light passes. Engraving and chamfering 3D-printed ABS parts worked nicely with minimal smearing. The round-nose cutter was especially useful for deburring and softening edges without gouging.

For PVC sheet, I kept RPMs closer to the low-middle range and cleared chips frequently. If chips pack in the flutes, heat climbs and surfaces glaze. A quick puff of compressed air or a soft brush between passes made a clear difference.

Precision and control

Even with steady hands, tiny cutters benefit from support. I used a small plunge base and a fence to run straight inlay lines and repeatable grooves; the results were much more consistent than freehand routing. For curves and lettering, the shorter, stiffer profiles felt better than long, spindly engravers you often find in bargain kits. The flute geometry bites quickly, so the tool doesn’t skate if you touch down gently at speed.

Do note that the effective cutting length is short on the router-style bits. They excel at shallow work but are not meant for deep mortising.

Durability and maintenance

Within the tool’s intended envelope—soft wood and plastics—edge life was solid. After cutting several meters of grooves in pine and engraving a handful of ABS panels, the edges remained sharp enough to produce clean chips. Resin buildup will make any bit feel dull; a quick wipe with a resin remover or mineral spirits kept flutes clean. For plastic, I occasionally saw a little melted residue; a brass brush cleared it without marring the coating.

Pushing into hardwoods accelerated wear. I tried light profiling in maple just to see; the bits cut, but edges lost crispness faster than in pine. That’s not a knock—just the reality of HSS and the stated use case. As for metal, I tried a tentative pass in aluminum and stopped immediately; the bit loaded up and squealed. Don’t do it.

Safety and dust

These bits produce fine dust, especially in soft wood. I used a small nozzle near the work and wore a respirator for longer sessions. Eye protection is nonnegotiable, and hearing protection helps at higher RPMs. Let the bit stop completely before setting the tool down; the small profiles are easy to nick if they contact the bench while spinning.

Value and where it fits

You can spend more for dedicated micro router bits in carbide, and if you’re routing hardwood daily, that’s the right move. For hobby work, shop fixes, model making, and one-off jigs in soft materials, this set hits a smart balance: a broad assortment, decent edge life, and compatibility with any rotary tool you already own. I reached for about half the shapes routinely; the rest serve as problem-solvers I’m glad to have on hand.

The inclusion of router-like profiles is what separates this set from generic burr assortments. Being able to cut a crisp 1 mm groove, a small V, or a tiny radius with a rotary tool opens up tasks I’d normally reserve for a trim router and a specialty bit.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for metal, and not ideal for abrasive hardwoods.
• Shallow effective cutting lengths; these are for detail work, not deep joinery.
• HSS won’t match carbide for longevity under heavy use.
• No labeled index in the case; I labeled the foam with a marker to speed selection.

Tips for better results

• Use a flex shaft for control and a plunge base for straight grooves.
• Make multiple shallow passes and finish with a light climb pass in soft wood.
• Drop RPMs and clear chips frequently in plastics.
• Clean flutes after sessions; a clean edge cuts cooler and lasts longer.

Recommendation

I recommend the Dicunoy 20-piece burr set for anyone using a rotary tool on soft wood and plastics who wants more than the usual grab-bag of carving shapes. The mix of classic burrs and miniature router-style profiles makes it genuinely useful for small joinery, engraving, inlay lines, and detailed shaping. Edge life is respectable within its intended materials, the shanks are consistent, and control is good—especially with a flex shaft or plunge base. If you need to cut metals or push hard into hardwoods, look to carbide alternatives. For hobbyists, prototypers, and shop tinkerers working in soft materials, this set earns a spot in the drawer and sees real use.