Loctite Tite Foam Big Gaps Spray Foam Sealant, 12 fl oz Can, 1 Pack - Polyurethane Expanding Insulation

I keep a can of Tite Foam Big Gaps in my kit because it solves a very specific problem well: sealing those awkward, finger-wide gaps around pipes, sill plates, and masonry penetrations where caulk just won’t cut it. Over several projects—basement air-sealing, drafty window surrounds, and some exterior utility penetrations—this foam has proven dense, durable, and forgiving of imperfect surfaces.

What it is and where it shines

Tite Foam Big Gaps is a moisture-curing polyurethane foam meant for gaps up to roughly three inches. It expands aggressively, cures to a firm, uniform-cell structure, and bonds to common building materials (wood, concrete, brick, stone, metal, and PVC). Once cured, it trims cleanly, takes paint, and holds up better outdoors than many big-box foams I’ve used. The foam itself is white out of the can; like most foams it can pick up a little amber tint in sunlight, which paint will hide and help protect.

I reach for it when:
- Air sealing rim joists and sill plates
- Filling around plumbing and HVAC penetrations
- Backfilling deep, irregular voids before finish caulking
- Deterring pests by closing off hospitable cavities
- Damping creaks and minor vibrations under tubs and shower pans

This isn’t a structural repair product and it’s not a waterproofing system, but for stopping drafts and stabilizing loose interfaces, it hits the mark.

Application experience

The can uses a standard straw applicator. A few things I’ve learned to get consistent results:

• Shake longer than you think. I give it a full minute or two of vigorous shaking before starting and again mid-use. The foam dispenses more evenly and with a finer cell structure when it’s well mixed.
• Warm cans dispense better. Room-temperature foam (or a brief warm-up in lukewarm water) expands predictably; cold foam sputters and can look coarse.
• Lightly mist the substrate. A quick spritz of clean water helps the moisture-cure reaction and reduces post-expansion crumbling at the edges.
• Apply in layers. For deep voids, I build up in 2–3 passes, letting each lift tack up for 5–10 minutes. That minimizes slump and the “volcano” effect where the foam keeps rising out of the joint.
• Expect a few seconds of afterflow. Even when you release the trigger, residual pressure in the straw will push out a bit more foam. I keep a scrap cup or cardboard nearby to catch the dribble and prevent blobs where I don’t want them.

The nozzle provides decent control for a straw-style can. It’s not surgical—you won’t be tracing hairline cracks—but for anything pencil-width and bigger, it’s easy to steer. Overhead work is doable, though I plan for a little sag: smaller lifts, more time between passes, and immediate cleanup of stray beads.

Tack-free time in my hands is about 8–10 minutes; I usually trim in an hour with a flexible pull saw or a sharp utility knife. Full cure and hardness settle in by the next day.

Density and durability

Compared with lighter foams marketed for “big gaps,” Tite Foam feels notably denser and less crumbly once cured. That matters in a few scenarios:

• Around fixtures and trim, it cuts flush and sands without tearing out chunks, so you can create a clean plane for caulk or paint.
• In high-traffic or vibration-prone spots (e.g., around an HVAC line set), the cured foam doesn’t powder out as quickly if it gets bumped.
• Outdoors, it resists UV degradation better than the usual straw-can suspects. I still recommend priming and painting exterior foam—sunlight is relentless—but uncoated areas have held together longer than I expected through a season of exposure.

Flex-wise, it bridges minor movement in framing and siding without cracking at the edges. It won’t tolerate structural joint motion, but it handles the everyday seasonal swell and shrink of wood.

Adhesion and sealing

Bond strength on clean, dust-free surfaces is excellent. I’ve stuck it to PT lumber, cast-in-place concrete, CMU, PVC, copper, and prefinished aluminum with no adhesion issues. It’s not a watertight sealant for pressure leaks, but it does a solid job blocking wind, incidental splash, and light wind-driven rain when paired with a paint or sealant topcoat. Indoors, it has been reliably airtight. A smoke pencil test around rim joists post-application showed a dramatic reduction in air movement.

One underrated perk: it quiets. A thin backer bead under a creaky acrylic tub stopped the noise without needing full foam bedding.

Odor is mild, especially compared with older-generation foams. Ventilation is still good practice, but I’ve used it in small mechanical rooms without lingering smell.

The dispenser: usable, not perfect

The straw applicator is familiar and gets the job done, but it’s where most of the friction lives.

• Single-use reality: once the foam cures in the straw, that can is done. If you anticipate multiple sessions, consider a pro foam gun and the compatible canister—those are cleanable and controllable.
• Oozing at pauses: beyond the expected afterflow, I’ve had occasional seepage at the straw connection if the collar wasn’t seated fully. A firm twist to lock, then a test shot into a box, prevents surprises.
• Mess potential: this foam is sticky. Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. Uncured foam wipes with acetone or a dedicated foam cleaner; once cured on skin, it’s there until it wears off. I keep painter’s tape and drop cloths around the work area and mask adjacent finishes when neatness matters.

If you only need one or two cans a year, the straw system is still the simplest option. For recurring work, upgrading to a gun-dispense system pays off in control and reusability.

Safety and limitations

• Don’t use it as a firestop unless it’s specifically labeled for that purpose (this version is not).
• Keep it away from open flames; the propellant is flammable during application.
• Avoid using it in continuously wet or submerged environments. For water pressure or waterproofing, use the right sealant or membrane system.
• It’s not structural. Don’t rely on foam to hold loads or replace mechanical fastening.

Coverage and value

A 12-ounce can goes further than you might think, especially if you build in layers. One can comfortably handled air sealing a typical rim joist bay and several pipe penetrations. The foam’s density and fine cell structure feel “premium” compared with bargain foams, and the outdoor resilience reduces the urge to re-do work the next season. Price-wise, it’s fair for the performance.

Practical tips for better results

• Pre-fit the straw, shake thoroughly, and test on scrap to gauge expansion.
• Lightly mist deep cavities before and between lifts.
• Fill gaps no more than half full—the foam will do the rest.
• Catch afterflow in a scrap cup to avoid blobs.
• Trim with a fine-tooth pull saw for flush results, then sand and paint.
• If you must pause mid-can, keep the straw vertical and sealed; petroleum jelly on the straw tip slows curing, but plan to finish the can in one session.

Bottom line

Tite Foam Big Gaps is a strong performer for sealing, insulating, and stabilizing the larger voids that standard caulk can’t handle. Its cured density, adhesion to mixed substrates, and above-average UV resistance make it a reliable choice for both interior and selective exterior tasks. The straw dispenser is serviceable but imperfect—expect a bit of oozing and plan your workflow to use the can in one go. With proper prep and a light touch, it delivers clean, durable results that are easy to trim and finish.

Recommendation: I recommend Tite Foam Big Gaps for homeowners and pros who need a dependable, dense foam for gaps up to three inches, especially where long-term adhesion and finishability matter. If you’ll be foaming frequently or require ultra-precise control, step up to a pro gun and cleaner-compatible foam system; otherwise, this can does the job well with thoughtful application and basic PPE.