BAISALJI Professional Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet Cutter Scoring Knife Tool,With a Curved Handle,It Is More Convenient To Use.One handle,11 blades.

Why I reached for a scoring knife instead of a saw

I keep a small stack of acrylic and plexiglass sheets around for shop fixtures, signage, and protective panels, and I’ve learned the hard way that not every cut calls for a saw. For straight cuts, especially on thinner sheets, a proper scoring knife is faster, cleaner, and creates far less mess than kerfing plastic with a blade. That’s what led me to the BAISALJI acrylic scoring knife—a simple, curved-handle tool with replaceable hook blades and a ridge on the back for snapping along a scored groove.

After several weeks of putting it to work on cast and extruded acrylic, plus a handful of other plastics, I have a good feel for where this tool shines and where it falls short.

Design and build

This is a lightweight, plastic-bodied scoring knife with a curved handle that fits the hand naturally in a pulling motion. The blade is the familiar hooked, chisel-like profile meant to carve a V-shaped groove in acrylic. A small ridge along the spine of the handle acts as a fulcrum when it’s time to start the break—place the ridge under the score line and apply downward pressure on either side to initiate the snap.

The handle shape is a smart choice. The curve keeps your knuckles clear of the work surface and makes it easier to maintain a consistent angle during long pulls. The downside is the all-plastic construction: while it’s sturdy enough for typical acrylic scoring, you’ll feel a hint of flex if you try to muscle through tougher materials or apply too much downward force. This is not a pry bar and doesn’t want to be treated like one.

There are eleven blades included (one installed, ten spares). I didn’t find a protective cap in the package, and that’s something I miss on a shop knife—more on storage and safety below.

Setup and blade changes

Out of the box, my blade-release slider was stiff. Once I understood the mechanism, it became manageable, but it took a few tries. The blade rides in side grooves and is restrained by a spring detent; slide the release back, pull the blade out, and reverse to install. It holds the blade adequately for proper scoring pressure, but it’s not the most confidence-inspiring lock on the market. I wouldn’t want to torque the blade sideways or twist during a cut. Use it as intended—pulling, straight, controlled—and it behaves.

One usability note: because there’s no blade cap, I prefer to remove the blade and store it in the handle cavity when the tool is not in use. It adds a minute to setup, but it’s safer for drawers and bags.

Cutting performance

• Acrylic and plexiglass (3 mm / 1⁄8 in): This is the tool’s sweet spot. With a straightedge clamped firmly, I made 6–10 light, consistent passes to form a clean groove. Leave the protective film on if possible; it helps prevent edge chipping. The cut produces a thin ribbon of plastic and a telltale whisper as the blade rides the groove. Once the groove was about a third to halfway through, I slid the ridge under the line, flexed to start the break, and finished the snap over the bench edge. Results were clean and predictable.

• Acrylic and plexiglass (6 mm / 1⁄4 in): It still works, but it demands patience. Expect more passes per side—often 12–20—especially on extruded acrylic. Scoring both faces improved reliability dramatically. I also warmed the sheet slightly to room or shop temperature (cold acrylic is brittle), which reduced corner chip-out. Done right, I could snap a straight edge with minimal cleanup.

• Polycarbonate: Polycarbonate is tougher and more ductile than acrylic. The scoring knife technically can groove it, but it’s not the best method. Even with many passes, the material prefers to bend, not fracture, and the handle flexed when I tried to increase pressure. For polycarbonate, I had better results with a fine-tooth saw or a track saw and plastic blade.

• Other plastics: On thin polystyrene and PVC sheet, the knife did fine. It’s also a handy scribing tool for laminates and softer plastics before a clean snap. It’s not a utility knife—don’t expect it to replace one for cardboard or rubber.

Edge quality on acrylic was solid. On cast acrylic, the snapped edge needed only a light deburr. On extruded sheets, I occasionally saw micro-chipping if I rushed the last few passes or tried to snap too early.

Ergonomics and safety

The curved handle really does help. Long scoring runs are easier on the wrist than with straight-bodied cutters. Texture on the handle is modest but sufficient when wearing light gloves. I would prefer a more prominent finger stop ahead of the blade for extra security, though I never felt my hand creeping forward in use.

Safety-wise, treat this like any sharp tool:
- Pull, don’t push. The blade geometry is designed to cut on the pull stroke.
- Wear eye protection; snapping can send tiny fragments flying.
- Use a metal straightedge and clamp the work. Wandering your line with a freehand cut is asking for slips.

The absence of a blade cap is the biggest misstep. Plan how you’ll stow the knife or remove the blade after use.

Durability and maintenance

Blades dull gradually rather than catastrophically. I averaged a few meters of scoring on 1/8 in acrylic per edge before noticing increased effort and fuzzier grooves. Swap the blade as soon as you feel yourself pressing harder to maintain depth—that’s when accidents happen.

The handle shows light cosmetic wear but no structural issues so far. The blade lock has not loosened, though I periodically check it for play before starting a run.

Value

For small shops, makers, and anyone doing occasional acrylic work, the value is strong. Eleven blades will take you through a surprising number of projects. Compared with a saw setup—fences, blades, chips everywhere—this knife is quick, quiet, and clean for straight cuts.

If you’re a fabricator handling thick sheets daily, I’d look toward a metal-bodied scoring knife or move to saw/router workflows. The BAISALJI knife is a capable light-to-moderate-duty option, not a heavy-industrial tool.

Tips for best results

• Keep the film on during scoring and snapping; remove it after.
• Score with light, repeatable passes. You’re carving a groove, not plowing.
• Maintain a consistent blade angle; let the hook ride the groove.
• For 1/4 in acrylic, score both sides. Start the snap with the built-in ridge, then finish over a bench edge.
• Avoid scoring across unsupported spans; back the cut line with sacrificial board.
• If the sheet is cold, let it acclimate to room temperature to reduce brittleness.

Pros and cons

Pros
- Clean, predictable cuts on acrylic up to 1/4 in with proper technique
- Comfortable curved handle for pull strokes
- Built-in ridge aids in starting the break
- Includes plenty of spare blades
- Faster and cleaner than sawing for straight-line cuts

Cons
- All-plastic handle and blade lock are not confidence-inspiring under high force
- Stiff blade-release mechanism at first
- No blade cap; storage requires care
- Not ideal for polycarbonate or thick, tough plastics
- Instructions could be clearer on blade changes and technique

Final recommendation

I recommend the BAISALJI acrylic scoring knife for hobbyists, crafters, and small shops that need a reliable, low-mess way to make straight cuts in acrylic and plexiglass up to 1/4 inch. It excels when used with proper scoring technique, delivers clean breaks, and the curved handle makes long pulls comfortable. The plastic construction and fussy blade release keep it out of the “pro-grade” category, and it’s not the right tool for polycarbonate or heavy-duty production. But as an affordable, effective scoring solution for light-to-moderate use, it earns a place in my kit.